Rediscovering The Joy Of Travel

Travel & Food Buzz

Pattaya Beach, Thailand

It’s been 2 years and 6 months since my last travel abroad and it seems like eternity for someone who would see the world at least twice a year (one long haul and one short haul trip). The pandemic has created a sedentary lifestyle and actually resulted to some 20 pounds of weight gain. I have been itching to travel to at least get rid of the excess “baggage” (I would normally lose weight every time I travel with all the walking) as I see travelling as a means not only to de-stress but also a good way to rack up steps in my Pacer.

(Left photo) Pattaya December 2019 or 2.5 years ago and 20.5lbs lighter; (right photo) Pattaya June 2022 and doesn’t feel so sexy so just serving face lol

So when the Philippine government relaxed its travel requirements for inbound residents where they don’t require any form of testing as long as you have your booster shot already, I decided to get myself a booster even if my last antibody test showed that I still have high levels of COVID antibodies. If you have read my previous article “I Got Vaccinated and My COVID Antibodies Are Off The Roof” (https://columbusbee.blog/2021/09/15/i-got-vaccinated-and-my-covid-antibodies-are-off-the-roof/), after getting fully vaccinated in August of last year, my antibody levels in September showed more than 2500 units/ml (2500 u/ml is the machine limit so it literally broke the machine lol). On February this year (or 5 months after my last test), I had myself tested again to see whether I would already need a booster shot but my antibody level was at 2284 units/ml, which is still very high given that the normal protection level is somewhere between 100-400 units/ml. That’s why I decided to defer the booster in the meantime and let others who need it more than I do take first dibs. But when the new travel requirement came out in June, it was probably a sign to have it as an annual shot (regardless of the antibody level) and plan that much deserved trip.

COVID quantitative antibody test results. As you can see, my antibody protection level hasn’t really declined more than 5 months after my 2nd vaccine dose

I went through a lot in the last nine months both personally and professionally. That’s why this trip was important to me as it will rekindle that old feeling of anticipation. Anticipating time off from work, anticipating the joy of doing nothing (if you have seen the movie or read the book “Eat, Pray, Love,” this is what Italians would say “La dolce far niente” or the sweetness of doing nothing), anticipating new experiences and surprises as well as the old and familiar. As I mentioned in my earlier article “The Joys of Travelling (Solo)” (https://columbusbee.blog/2019/06/01/the-joys-of-travelling-solo/), you won’t be the same person between the time you embarked on a trip and after your return, carrying with you something new and old, even if having gone through the same or similar experiences. Given that it is only a short time off (essentially eight days of rest and recreation excluding travel time), I cannot eat in Italy, pray in India, and find love in Indonesia. So I thought why not go to Japan when you can do all three things? Japan though still has strict travel requirements, where they only allow tour groups at this time. So individual/solo travelers are still not allowed. Going to Italy also crossed my mind (where you can also do all three things) where I still have the travel voucher from the Europe trip that I was supposed to take in May 2020 (if the pandemic didn’t cause the flight cancellation), but the fares have shot up (twice the price if I have booked the ticket say in Feb) which is expected if you book a flight so close to summer. I have also thought of Guam, but the fares are more expensive than usual (particularly the return flight), not sure if because summer has officially kicked in as well.

La dolce far niente or the sweetness of doing nothing

So I thought why not go to my fave country in Southeast Asia: Thailand. I have been to Thailand a few times already and it’s my go-to destination if I just want a quick escape from everything. It is a perfect destination if you are looking for beaches, good food, and nice people. Of course you can eat, pray, and love (and I did a lot of eating and prayed as well, but didn’t find love). Thailand also has relaxed its inbound travel requirements in June (no need for testing and quarantine if fully vaxxed, you just need to secure a Thailand Pass online which is more like a health declaration and save the QR code on your phone), so less hassle and it’s time to return to the country that I last visited before the pandemic (December 2019).

My Google Maps Timeline email notification

And just like that, I was queueing at the Philippine passport control in the airport as if it was pre-pandemic and took some meals from the lounge while waiting for my flight. The only difference this time is that you order your food online and will be served on your table. So I ordered anything that I can eat (I had the popular arroz caldo and adobo rice topping) and drink (two cans of Coke Zero and a bottle of water) since it would take some time for the same to be served, unlike before where you just take what you want to eat or drink from the different counters. Soon I found myself settling on my business class seat in Thai Airways’ 777-300ER. I can’t remember if it was the same aircraft that I flew last time, but the seat is much different now, which is a pleasant surprise (these are the types of surprises that I like when travelling). Unlike before where the seats are just wider than economy and with an arm rest that extends to a mini drink counter (think of Philippine Airlines business class seats for local flights or US airlines business class seats for regional flights), the flight now has its own cube (or mini suite whatever you may call it) where each seat is separated from the adjacent seat like having your own enclave (the cabin has a 1-2-1 seat configuration). I took the window seat which means I don’t have any adjacent neighbor (safer during this time of COVID). The seat can fully recline into a flat bed and the cube looks like that of Etihad’s business class seat (though this flight is a short haul one unlike the Etihad flight to Europe that I took a few years back). Though you don’t really need a flat bed for a 3-hour flight (or a business class seat for that matter), but gives you options for a comfortable (if you want to take a power nap) and safer flight.

(Left photo) Thai Airways business class seat December 2019; (right photo) business class seat June 2022. Both are window seats. See the huge difference?

I arrived in Bangkok late at night (almost midnight) and since I already arranged for my airport transfer thru Klook, it was a hassle free trip where I’ll just have to wait for the car to arrive and pick me up. That gave me some time to rest before I headed out to Pattaya around noon the next day. It was almost a mirror trip of 2019 where my itinerary was almost the same (except for the Saigon leg of the former). I flew on the same airline (where the seats have leveled up), stayed in the same hotels (All Accor Hotels but will probably change brands in the future due to its very poor Customer Care service), ate on the same places (except for some new ones), sunbathed on the same beaches (though I didn’t feel as sexy as before lol), prayed on the same temples (and new shrines), and shopped in the same malls (plus more with one mall that fascinated me as a traveler). The only thing that I probably didn’t do this time was catch a movie since I’ve already seen some of the movies that were on (Doctor Strange 2 and Maverick 2).

From top left: salmon and kani sashimi, tempura and gyoza, salmon teriyaki, and another serving of salmon and kani sashimi (I love sashimi!)

Most of the trip was spent in Pattaya and I’m just glad that it wasn’t as crowded as the last time. I made a trip down memory lane by eating at familiar places, but this time had more varieties. My food trip started with Japanese. I was actually looking forward to eat at my fave eat-all-you-can Japanese resto (Shabushi by Oishi) but I thought got shuttered due to pandemic when I can’t find it only to realize that I was on the wrong floor (one of those senior moments lol). So I ended up eating at Zen Restaurant. This is one of those detours that end up as pleasant surprises. The food was fresh and the place is comfy where you can binge and chill at the same time. I had my usual sashimi (salmon and kani), tempura, gyoza, miso soup, and salmon teriyaki. I eventually went to Shabushi and relish on shabu-shabu (I used to go there for lunch almost everyday on my last trip), enjoying a wide variety of meat and seafood. Next on the food trip was Southeast Asian fares, starting of course with Thai food. Before leaving for Thailand, I was already craving for my fave tom yum (hot and sour mixed seafood soup). I haven’t found a decent tom yum where I live so the anticipation has been building up. I ended up having it in one of those roadside eateries called J Daeng (which looks like the same roadside eatery as the one in Phuket where I had very good tom yum years ago). Well, as far as tom yum goes, the place didn’t disappoint, but the shrimp cakes that I ordered was just so-so (I was also craving for fish cakes, but then there was none in the menu). Other Southeast Asian comfort food that I had are Singapore’s hainanese chicken rice, which is actually common where I live (I used to eat at Nanyang restaurant at Powerplant Mall years ago before it shut down) and my latest discovery, Malaysia’s bak kut teh (pork ribs soup), which grows on you after a few sips of that delicious pork broth.

Top left: Singapore’s hainanese chicken rice, Malaysia’s bak kut teh (pork ribs soup), and Thailand’s shrimp cakes and tom yum (hot and sour mixed seafood soup)

Next stop is Korean. One thing I noticed not just in Pattaya but also in Bangkok (and probably just anywhere else in Thailand) is the proliferation of not just Japanese restaurants (or anything Japanese for that matter) but also those specializing in Korean food. It’s probably because Japanese and Korean tourists stay longer than any other nationalities. So I had Korean barbeque at Sukishi. It was ok, I enjoyed it but not as much as Shabushi (maybe because I like my food steamed or boiled than barbequed). While there, I got fascinated with the Terminal 21 mall where it is located. This is the first time I’ve visited the mall and I actually like the airport terminal concept. I mean where can you find an Eiffel Tower inside of a mall? I’ve seen replicas of Eiffel Towers before (just like the one in Vegas), but not inside a mall. Each level has different themes and represent a country or a city (ie ground floor is Paris, next levels are Italy, Tokyo, and San Francisco). I was able to appreciate the themes more (Paris is represented by Eiffel Tower, Italy by Leaning Tower of Pisa and different statues, Tokyo by cherry blossoms, San Francisco by the Fisherman’s Wharf) because I actually have been to all these countries/cities.

Terminal 21 mall. Isn’t this mall fascinating?

Bangkok has its fair share of food trip and shopping as well. I don’t leave Bangkok without going to two of my favorite restaurants: Somboon and Square Restaurants. Somboon, home of the original fried curry crabs, has my fave roasted fresh water prawns with glass noodles. I used to order the one with crabs, but there are times that a single order will come with portions of crabs that are heavy on shells, so I would choose prawns instead. In this trip, I discovered a new dish that I really like, which is oyster omelet. Square, on the other hand, is an eat-all-you can buffet. I like this resto coz not only does it offer fresh prawns and mussels (where you can eat to your heart’s content) and Japanese fares (sushi and sashimi) and some delicious soups, but also it is one of those value for money restos.

Korean Barbeque plus salmon sashimi and gyoza (see, even in a Korean resto, I still want my sashimi lol)

There are also new restos that I’ve tried during this trip. As mentioned earlier, I was craving for fish cakes so I tried Baan Ying. The fish cake was just ok, but what I like was the crab meat in chili crab sauce. This is a better alternative to ordering a crab where sometimes you’ll end up with more shells than meat. It has generous portions of crab meat and you can never go wrong with crab chili sauce. Another one that I tried out was Kam’s Roast, a Michelin starred resto in Hongkong that has its biggest offshore branch in Bangkok. I had the popular roasted duck/goose and the combo of toro char siu and char siu (barbequed pork differentiated by pork cuts). Both are delish! These Chinese fares actually cap the food trip, after having Japanese, Southeast Asian, and Korean gastronomic delights.

From left: Roasted fresh water prawn with glass noodles, oyster omelet, and fresh river prawns and mussels. I love Thailand’s river prawns coz the meat has a bit of natural sweetness.

I don’t leave Thailand without doing my usual prayers to their deities. As I’ve written in my previous article “Dear Mama Mary” (https://columbusbee.blog/2019/09/14/dear-mama-mary/), I embrace all religions and beliefs, as long as it makes sense to me. So I visited Wat Pho again. home of the reclining Buddha (apparently the biggest in all of Thailand), as well as discovering new shrines such as the shrine of Trimurti (God of love, health, and fortune) and shrine of Ganesha (God of success). I went all out with the offerings (each shrine would have its own prescribed set of offerings) coz you’ll never know when the Gods will go all out in granting your prayers.

Top left: Chinese roasted duck/goose, combo of Chinese toro char siu and char siu (barbequed pork in two different pork cuts), Thailand’s fish cakes and crab meat in crab chili sauce

Then I realized that the trip was almost over. Just like any trips in the past, it will come to a close. So after picking up a few items at Duty Free, I was again having some meals at the lounge. Suvarnabhumi International Airport, being the hub of Thai Airways, would have expectedly better food and drinks selection in the lounge than the one in Manila, and no need for an app this time since the food and drinks are available in the different counters for you to just pick up and bring to your chosen lounge seat. Then I found myself settling on my seat in the plane, realizing that I’ll be back to work in a few hours. But then, after such a long wait, I finally did what I’ve been longing to do: rediscovering the joy of travel. Not exactly the “Eat, Pray, Love” itinerary, but no doubt I did eat and pray (love will happen when it happens). I don’t even need to go to Japan to do all things Japanese, or be in Guam to do shopping. I don’t need to take a European tour again (at least this year) to reminisce how much I enjoy Europe. All I need is just Thailand.

Coz the saying “it’s not the destination, it’s the journey” does not only apply to life, but also to travel experiences, surprises, and detours that make up a good trip.

After a long wait, I finally did it!

A Tale of Two Pattayas

Travel Buzz

Pattaya, Thailand

I would normally hie off to beaches during the Christmas season. That has been my yearly practice, not so much because of the cooler weather this time of the year but to just get out of the Philippines where this season can be very stressful. To those who haven’t been to the Philippines this time of the year, this is the worst place to be in given that almost everyone is outside of their homes either to be somewhere to have endless Christmas lunches and dinners. or to do piece meal shopping for gifts and groceries, or to see the Christmas displays and lights in malls and parks. These create the most horrific traffic in the metropolis, worse than any given day (traffic is already horrible on normal days), especially where I live (Makati City which is the central business district) where getting from point A to point B would be an epic journey. Cases in point: just driving to Rockwell Center where I would normally go to watch a movie, dine out, or do my shopping would already take me about an hour when it’s just 1.7km from where I live; getting to see my orthopedic surgeon for my post surgery consult will take me about the same time when it’s only about 2.9km from my place. Not to mention that you have to contend with reckless drivers, both in cars and on motorcycles. So you can imagine my stress and frustrations during this time of the year when you cannot do your usual routine without having to go thru this road ordeal.

Stress-free holiday (Pattaya Beach)

That’s why I have created by own tradition and I am unapologetic about it. I may sound like a Christmas grinch, but I already have so much Christmas memories from the old tradition that I’d rather make a new one that is stress-free. And what better way to stay free from being stressed than the soothing effect of the sun, sea, and sands. This is where Thailand comes to mind, which is one of my favorite Southeast Asian destinations. I have discovered Pattaya for the first time last year, and I thought why not go there again to see the other side.

Dongtan Beach

Yes, there are two sides of Pattaya. Just like Bali (where you have the main beach Kuta and the quiet side that is Nusa Dua), Pattaya has main beach called Pattaya, and the quiet side that are Jomtien and Dongtan beaches. Same as last year, I booked a flight via Bangkok using my Krisflyer miles (Singapore Airlines frequent flyer program). For 40,000 miles, I got a roundtrip business class ticket for Thai Airways (member of Star Alliance along with Singapore Airlines) and only paid about $70 for taxes and surcharges. Not bad given that this is a direct flight, compared last year where one leg of my flight was with Singapore Airlines where I have to spend a few hours layover in Singapore airport. I arrived in Bangkok late in the night, which is fine given that I don’t have to contend with bad traffic if I have arrived earlier in the day.

My hotel room in Bangkok (Novotel Bangkok Silom Road)

Same as last year, I booked a room at Novotel Bangkok Silom Road using my Accor card. What I liked about this hotel is that aside from its location, it offers a value-for-money buffet. For 299 bht and 700 bht for lunch and dinner respectively, I can eat as much fresh shrimps and mussels as I want along with other fares such as salmon and kani sashimi, kebab, pasta dishes, pastries, and fruits. The only difference is that dinner offers unlimited alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks and frozen desserts. I love the fresh shrimps (red shrimps and river shrimps) that are so delicious (the red shrimps have that sweet taste that makes it different from the ordinary shrimps here in the Philippines; the only time I have tasted shrimps this good in it’s fresh form was in Lisbon, Portugal). So for the price it was worth it. Not only the food was good, but the room was also value for money. For less than a $100 a night, I got a spacious room that came with the basic amenities. My only complaint is that it didn’t come with bathrobes and slippers, the only stuff that I would love to have in a hotel room (I can do without the other amenities as I bring my own bath essentials when I travel).

Eat-all-you-can buffet (river shrimps, red shrimps, mussels, & squid)

I used Klook for the first time for my airport transfers as well as city transfers (Bangkok to/from Pattaya). I find their prices reasonable and it was actually very efficient. Unlike last year where I have to queue outside of the airport arrival area to get a taxi ticket number and wait again for my turn to get a cab (that could take a while especially if there aren’t as much cabs as passengers), with my pre-arranged airport transfer, all I did was to look for the Klook kiosk inside the airport arrival area and the rep called my designated driver and ushered me out of the airport when the car is already on its way to pick me up. So it was less hassle than before, plus the fact that you have to wait inside the airport instead of outside, where you can avoid the heat and the pollution outside.

My room in Pattaya last year (Rabbit Resort Pattaya)

It would take about 2 hours to get to Pattaya from Bangkok by car. That’s why I arranged for a premium car (Klook provided me with Toyota Fortuner) for a smoother ride given that I just had spinal surgery and I wanted to have a more comfortable road trip. Last year, I stayed at Jomtien/Dongtan area, where I booked a room at Rabbit Resort Pattaya. The reason why I chose this non-Accor hotel was because it is one of the few hotels in Pattaya that offers a resort vibe. The rooms are villa-like, where the interiors look like a traditional Thai house. So it’s not your typical hotel room that looks tired and dated. The hotel is owned by a Thai husband and an American wife whom were introduced to me during my stay. If my memory serves me right, the name of the hotel actually came from their surname, and not from that Easter bunny. The wife is actually the one who was around most of the time, meeting and entertaining guests, so the service and hospitality were more personal than casual (similar to my accommodation in Santorini). Since I also booked the Christmas eve dinner in the hotel, she invited me to join her and her husband, along with her two nephews from the US who were visiting Pattaya for the first time, in their dinner table, knowing that I was travelling alone. It was a sweet gesture, but I didn’t want to intrude in a private family affair, so I politely declined.

Jomtien Beach

The reason why this is the quiet side of Pattaya is because the area is less crowded with lesser commercial establishments than the main beach. There is a restaurant row in the commercial center where I reckon the food was good, as well as convenience stores and shops, but other than that, there are no malls or attractions that will keep the crowd in except for the beaches. But the perceived serenity and privacy of the area also attract the wrong kind of people. Not the petty thieves but the sexually obsessed ones. Not sure if it’s because I look like a local, but that doesn’t give foreigners the right to treat locals like sex objects or commodities, particularly in public (unless if you are in sexually charged streets or establishments which are not uncommon in this country). Maybe such behavior is tolerated in this country’s culture (hence the choice of word “obsessed” rather than “perverted” cause that behavior towards locals could be the new normal). Just to give you an idea. I was having lunch al fresco along the beach road when this burly white guy stopped on his track, stood across my table, and made sexual gestures (it seems like he wanted to get off al fresco with matching tongue action). Rather than get offended (I’m already used to guys making sexual and non-sexual overtures in my travels), I actually found it amusing and awkward coz I’m not sure if he was trying to seduce me, harass me, buy/hire me, or just trying to be sexy. Good thing I was wearing shades (so no direct eye contact), so I stared back and gave a smirk (like ‘eh’ or ‘meh’). He just eventually walked away, licking his bruised ego. That incident didn’t happen once, but I have mastered the art of fending off unnecessary attention from these type of guys.

Temple of Truth

On my way back to the resort from Temple of Truth last year, my cab passed by this area that I thought didn’t exist. It was along the promenade of the main beach where there are these hotel and restaurant rows as well as malls and shops. The area reminds me of Gold Coast in Australia (where I spent the Christmas season a couple of years earlier) that has that Miami vibe. That’s why this year, I decided to go back to Pattaya and stay in this area, to experience what this side of Pattaya has to offer. Here, it’s like a melting pot of the world (like NY), where tourists from all corners abound. You know that your city has arrived (from a tourism perspective) when hordes of mainland Chinese tourists are dropped off and picked up by tourist buses. This is true across all popular cities around the world that I have been to lately. Though I try to avoid crowds like this, but I also cannot give up a place that has the right balance that I’m looking for, where you can have the sand and the sea and soak in the sun on one side of the road and the convenience of the malls and your hotel where you can cool off from all the sweating and enjoy some good food, cold drinks, and even movies on the other side of the road.

Relaxing on the lounge by the poolside (Hotel Baraquda Pattaya MGallery by Sofitel)

I booked a room at Hotel Baraquda, which counts among the M Gallery collection of Accor hotels around the world. It’s a boutique hotel, so it’s not massive like other 5-star hotels in the area. But in spite of its smaller scale, the room is spacious with its own balcony that has pool view. It came with bathrobes and slippers among other amenities (as should be) and what makes this room different from the other hotel rooms that I have stayed in was the lighting control that you can set depending on your mood. But just like any hotel room, it looks and feels tired and dated. Even the towels need to go (rough and worn out like those in Novotel Bangkok Silom Road) and should be replaced with new, fluffy sets.

My room in Pattaya this year (Hotel Baraquda Pattaya MGallery by Sofitel)

The area is a far cry from the side of Pattaya that I stayed in last year. One thing I’ve noticed is that there seems to be as much massage parlors as restaurants in the area. Like for every two restaurants, there would be a massage parlor in between, I wonder whether these establishments actually make money given the competition. Then there are the big and small malls. The one I would frequent to was the Central Festival mall, which was not only close to my hotel (there were at least two smaller malls that were nearer), but it has everything that I look for in a mall. I was glad to find an Ippudo branch there (for my favorite Akamaru ramen) as well as new finds such as the Shabu Shi by Oishi, an eat-all-you-can shabu shabu place with a buffet of sushi, sashimi, and tempura, a drink buffet (different soda and green tea variants), and your choice of ice cream and sherbet, all for 419 bht. When you enter the place, they would ask you to choose among the four broths (chicken, tom yum, a black broth that was on the sweet side, and a milky broth that I didn’t try). Then they will usher you to a seat facing a moving belt of raw proteins (the ones I liked were pork belly sliced thinly like bacon, crystal shrimps, clams, and fish fillet) and vegetables for you to pick up and dip into the boiling broth of your choice. It takes about a minute or two for the protein to get cooked (you know when they’re ready once they started floating) and once drained of the excess broth and into the plate, I would dip my chopsticks on the chili sauce provided separately and tap the meat to give it a thin spread of the sauce, just enough not to overpower the taste and heat of the cooked meat. I enjoyed it so much that I went back almost every lunch and had dinner once as well (I would suggest lunch though since it looks like lunch leftovers were the ones being served for dinner). The mall also has cinemas where I got to catch the latest Star Wars franchise (The Rise of Skywalker).

Eat-all-you-can shabu shabu (Shabu Shi by Oishi, Central Festival Mall, Pattaya)

Another thing that I loved about Thailand is the Japanese influence on its food and consumer goods. Aside from those Japanese restos that I have mentioned, a lot of other Japanese restos abound both in Bangkok and Pattaya, There is even a level in Central Festival where Japanese restos mostly occupy the whole floor, aside from the predominantly Japanese kiosks at the basement food court. The supermarket in the mall carries Japanese products (like those in Isetan store in Central World Bangkok which is a specialty department store carrying Japanese products level after level), so if you are fond of anything Japanese or Thai, you only need to be in Bangkok and/or Pattaya to enjoy the best of both worlds.

(Left): Akamaru ramen and spicy gyoza (Ippudo, Central Festival Mall, Pattaya); (Right): Sushi & sashimi (Shabu Shi by Oishi, Central Festival Mall, Pattaya)

The Pattaya that I know now is different from the Pattaya I knew then. The place that I knew then may be quiet and peaceful, even sweet, but has some unexpected dark side to it. The place that I know now is lively, noisy, crowded, and sexually charged environment, yet no surprises, knowing fully well what to expect given its seedy reputation. This is where it gets interesting, where even the sexual undertones of Walking Street hasn’t prevented it from becoming a family destination just like Amsterdam’s Red Light District which has become a major tourist spot in that part of the world. In contrast, the Pattaya I knew last year has become a shadow of the Pattaya that I know now, where from my vantage point, this year’s Pattaya looked wholesome and harmless, in spite of popular belief.

Walking Street (Pattaya)

On my flight back to Manila, the stewardess gave me a local Thai paper (in English) where my horoscope for the day reads something like “Turn away from the old ways…create new traditions…” I thought this is exactly what I have been doing the past few years, and I don’t believe I’d even consider turning back to the old ways anytime soon, unless Christmas season becomes less stressful in my country.

Creating my own Christmas tradition (thru stress-free stuff that I love to do)

Nevertheless, wherever you are, whatever tradition you follow, whenever you’d feel like taking an escape, Christmas is still worth celebrating your own way (and that’s ok). So I’m sending Christmas cheers to everyone. Coz we all deserve it.

Merry Christmas!