Life is a Beach (Second of Two Parts)

Travel and Positivity Buzz

Cool, clear, blue Aegean Sea

There’s a proverbial phrase “when life gives you lemons, make lemonade” which embraces positivity and optimism amidst trying times. What can be truer than this than the situation we are all in right now where it feels like our lives have been taken over by the COVID virus, which is nothing more than the common cold virus except that it’s deadlier. I thought this can only happen in the movies, but looks like life is stranger than fiction. Like in the movies, the contagion has resulted to lockdowns where travel and mobility are restricted. Face mask and shield have become so common like underwear that you cannot be caught dead without wearing one. Given that the best way to handle this health crisis is to treat anyone as potential carrier, no matter how hideous and uncomfortable these protective gears are, we just simply have to appreciate these as something we cannot leave our homes without.

Count your blessings

So how do we make lemonade out of this pandemic? There are people who see opportunities out of a crisis (both good and bad ones) and there are those who simply accept the ‘new normal’ (I’m starting to get annoyed with this phrase). For me, it’s the time to count my blessings, to reflect on life with its ups and downs, and how I could see myself as a survivor. Sounds cliche and corny for most, but if you haven’t appreciated those things that you would normally take for granted (such as freedom to move around), then maybe the lockdown can facilitate such realization of how being free is precious yet vulnerable.

My happy place

This is also the time to go back to your happy place. For me, beaches have always been my happy place. Or any body of water for that matter. I’ve always been attracted to bodies of water. Maybe because my feng shui says that I am a water element, so that would probably explain why I would find myself in that blissful state of peace and serenity when I’m near a body of water. Like lemonade, it feels refreshing, that’s why even if summer went by without being able to go to the beach, just the mere thought of it would already alleviate whatever stress this lockdown has brought on our mental and emotional well-being.

Reliving the ghost of summer past

So to keep our sanity and emotional stability in check, let us continue our virtual trip to the different beaches around the world. In the first part of this article, we were able to cover the 3 A’s (Asia, America, and Africa). In this second part, let’s fly to Europe, Middle East, and Oceania, and explore the beaches that I have been to in more than 20 years of travels.

Europe

Praia da Ribeira (Cascais, Portugal)

Europe has always been a fave destination of mine. Aside from its rich history, art treasures, bustling culture, and century old architecture, some places have nice beaches. One such place is Barcelona (Spain). The home of Gaudi, this city is a mix of the old and the new. Modern skyscrapers blending in with the works of Gaudi makes this a very livable city. Not to mention beautiful people. To top it all, it has a beach called Barceloneta on its coastline that is easy reach by car, bicycle, public transportation or even by foot if you happen to be staying in one of the hotels that are lining up the whole stretch of the beach (in my case, I stayed at Pullman Barcelona Skipper which is about 200 meters from the beach). Just like any beach in a city, it gets packed on summers. You don’t need to go far or drive a couple of hours just to get to one. No wonder I fell in love with this city the first time I’ve experienced it. This is one of my top five cities in the world that I would love to live in if given the chance.

(Top left) Hotel rooftop view of the iconic fish art, the marina, and Barceloneta beach; (top right and bottom) Barceloneta beach, promenade, and topless sunbathers (Barcelona, Spain)

Another such place where the old and the new mesh well is Malta. It is the home of the oldest standing structure in the world (called Gigantia, much older than the pyramids of Egypt) in one of the two main islands called Gozo. Valletta, its capital city, is like an open museum with new architecture blending in. The city has pockets of beaches as well, which provide the locals enough space to enjoy the sun, the sand, and the sea. The city is very scenic and the people are nice. Another great place to live in.

View of the city, marina, and beach from my hotel room balcony (Valletta, Malta)

Europe also boasts of beautiful resort towns and islands full of fine beaches along its coastlines. The resort town of Cascais (Portugal) is one such resort town that has a few beaches to choose from. There’s the Praia da Ribeira, a wide stretch of beach that sits along the busy promenade where locals and tourists alike who find the water too cold for swimming (which is common in European beaches even during summers, unlike its Asian counterparts) can sit and enjoy the cool breeze, the sun, and the sights. There’s Praia da Rainha, a secluded beach which you can access thru rows of restos on a cliff, which gives you the option of having a table and order your fave drinks while basking under the sun and enjoying the bird’s eye view of the beach and seascape. You can go down to the beach and take a dip into the cold waters or just do your sunbathing on the fine sands to get that nice tan.

Praia da Rainha (Cascais, Portugal)

Aside from Spain, Malta, and Portugal, Italy and Montenegro also have nice resort towns with fine beaches. I wrote about the resort towns of Positano and Amalfi in Italy in my previous article (https://columbusbee.blog/2020/03/15/italy-how-thou-i-love-thee-let-me-count-the-ways-part-2-of-2/) as well as the island of Capri. Montenegro has the resort town Budva, which, just like any other resort towns in Europe, is deliciously beautiful with its old charm mixing well with modern marina and pebbly beaches. You can have lunch by the beach if the water is too cold and can sit through all day people watching as well as appreciating the scenery.

(Top) Beaches of Budva (Montenegro); (bottom) lunch by the beach

Then of course you have the popular isles of Greece. Two of which are Mykonos and Santorini, which I wrote about in my earlier article (https://columbusbee.blog/2019/07/21/greece-of-myths-mediterranean-food-and-beaches-part-2-of-2/). You can do beach hopping in any of these isles, as both have pockets of beaches along its coastline. Just be on a lookout for tourist traps, particularly in Mykonos. You need to be extra cautious in this place. You don’t want to get “robbed” (just like what happened to me as shared in my article) that can potentially ruin an otherwise enjoyable holiday. Tourist traps aside, the beaches tick all the boxes: fair share of sunshine all throughout summers, clear blue or green waters, white to black sands or pebbles from volcanic matter, and cool, light to windy sea breeze (Mykonos at times can be very windy).

Beach hopping in Santorini (Greece) from left (clockwise): Black Beach, White Beach, Red Beach

What is common among these European beaches is that these rest along the shores of the Adriatic, Aegean, and Mediterranean seas. I don’t know what’s with these seas, but there is something mystical and magical every time I’m near these bodies of water. It’s like something’s calling me to be near it, to feel it, to soak in it. Aside from its crystal clear waters that are always enticing (as well as baffling, like how waters along some of these big cities and towns have been kept clean thru centuries), there is something special and dreamy about these seas, like unicorns. If I have to get mythical about it, I may be a descendant of Poseidon or his demigod son Triton. It seems like I’m forever under the spell of these seas, that’s why I always keep on coming back.

Chillin by the Red Beach

The magical spell seems to also make people less inhibited. It’s not uncommon in these beaches that people can do the full monty regardless of age and let it all hang out like it’s nobody’s business. What can be more freeing than that feeling of being one with nature (or in this case, being one with the sea)? I haven’t done that yet, but if I did, it would be the most courageous and liberating act that I could ever do in this lifetime (I could probably consider skinny dipping lol).

Middle East

Nation Riviera Beach Club with the view of the Fairmont Marina (the one that looks like Atlantis The Palm) at Al Kasir Island and the Arabian Gulf (Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates)

The only time that I was in the Middle East (aside from layover in Muscat in one of my long haul flights) was when I availed of the stopover promo of Etihad Airways where I spent a few days in Abu Dhabi (the airline’s main hub). The business class promo comes with accommodations at The St. Regis Abu Dhabi which entitle guest access to the private Nation Riviera Beach Club. The beach can be easily reached from the hotel thru an air-conditioned underground tunnel underneath the Corniche.

View of Arabian Gulf, Al Kasir Island, and Nation Riviera Beach Club from my hotel room (The St. Regis Abu Dhabi)

The beach is large enough and provides a good view of the Fairmont Marina Abu Dhabi (which is the emirate’s version of Dubai’s Atlantis The Palm) in Al Kasir Island. Coupled with turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf and the pristine sands give this beach that chill vibe aside from the exclusivity and luxury attached to these private beach clubs.

(Left) View of The St. Regis Abu Dhabi; (right) enjoying my fave drink while chillin in one of the beach loungers

Since it was the stopover before my flight back to Manila, it was the perfect break from all the flying and walking while on holiday. What better way to rest those tired feet (from walking) and back (from flying intra-Europe) than to lie on one of the beach loungers and sip my fave drink while enjoying the sun, the cool sea breeze, and the nice view.

Oceania

Pinky Beach (Rottnest Island, Australia)

Hopping to the other side of the globe, this region is known not only for its beaches but also for all bodies of water. Starting off with New Zealand, this country is not really known for its beaches but for its fjords, lakes, rivers, and extreme water adventures. But it still has decent beaches on the shores of its cities such as those in Auckland, Devonport, and Wellington and in the coasts of its islands such as Waiheke. The waters and sands in these beaches may not be as pristine as those in Asia and Europe, but these are still good spots to relax especially during summers (take note that summer in this region is between December to March so a good alternative for those living in winter regions or in my case, a good travel option to get out of Manila during December to escape the holiday madness and horrendous traffic).

Mission Bay Beach (Auckland, New Zealand)

Wellington, in particular, has pockets of beaches along its coastline where aside from an enjoyable walk along the long stretch of its promenade, the beaches are bustling with life where Kiwis (locals) that are not sunbathing on the sands are enjoying meals in restos lining up the promenade or having either cold drinks or ice cream from kiosks around the area. I remember going to these different beach spots from my hotel on foot. It was a long walk (about 30 minutes walk one way on my pace, which can be longer if you walk slower), but it didn’t feel like one cause I enjoy the stroll and the sights where not only you pass by shops, bars, restos, museums, a marina and activity center on the way to the beach, but also get a glimpse of Kiwi city life. I enjoyed each trip to the beach, not to mention the calories burnt from walking to keep that slender beach body in check (from all the good food during these holidays).

Bondi Beach (Sydney, Australia)

Australia, on the other hand, is a beach country. Every major city across the continent has its own beach, either natural or man-made. I’ve been to this continent a few times, which only speaks of how much I liked this place. Sydney, which is one of my top five cities in the world (along with Barcelona that I mentioned earlier), boasts of several beaches close to the city center, which makes this a very livable city (I would live there if given the chance). A few minutes by car or by public transportation is the popular Bondi Beach. A vast beach with strong currents and fine sands, this is the beach for both surfers and sunbathers alike. A few minutes by ferry from Sydney harbour is Manly Beach. This place exudes resort town vibe, where shops, ice cream and yogurt parlors abound. The beach and the commercial area are teeming with life, which only affirms that Aussies love their beaches. Not far by foot from Manly Beach is Shelly Beach. While Manly has fine sands, Shelly is a pebbly beach. While Manly has strong waves like those in Bondi, Shelly has calm waters as the beach is located in a cove that is sheltered from strong winds. No wonder Shelly Beach is the more suitable beach wedding scene than any other Sydney beaches.

(Top left) Manly Beach; (top right) beach wedding at Shelly Beach (Sydney, Australia). (Bottom) St. Kilda Beach (Melbourne, Australia)

Another Australian city that demonstrates how Aussies mix their eclectic city living with beach culture is Melbourne. Aside from the fact that Melbourne is the cultural hub of the continent (and the most European among all the major cities in Australia), it has some of the spectacular beaches in the region. Not far from the city is St. Kilda, a resort town with a fine beach, promenade, and amusement park. There’s also a weekend market by the beach promenade that sells all kinds of stuff, from organic to art to basic necessities. Of course, Melbourne’s crown jewel is the Great Ocean Road, its coastline similar to Amalfi Coast where pockets of beaches with amazing views of the rock formations abound. A trip to Melbourne won’t be complete without seeing this postcard perfect coastline. This is where Australia’s own version of the 12 Apostles are, which comprised of several rock formations that used to be a dozen when counted but less of that nowadays.

One of the pockets of beaches along the Great Ocean Road (Melbourne, Australia)

But the beach capital of the country (and the region) is neither of these two cities. Gold Coast is where beach buddies, surfers, and sun worshipers go for the waters, the wave, or just for the sun. When I said in the first part of this article that Guam reminds me of Gold Coast, that’s because of the long stretch of beach lined up with international hotel brands and apartments. I haven’t been to Miami, but I’m pretty sure this is how Miami would look like. Not only a shore full of skyscrapers, but also full of sculpted and tanned bodies.

(Clockwise from top left) View of the Surfers Paradise Beach from my hotel room balcony; view of the skyscrapers from the beach; at the main entrance to the beach (Gold Coast, Australia)

Surfers Paradise is the main beach and this looks like the melting pot of summer holidaymakers. It also helps that it has that resort town vibe that makes it more attractive to vacationers all over the world. There’s always entertainment in Cavill Avenue (the heart of Surfers Paradise, which is Aussies’ definition of a mall) amidst the backdrop of shops, bars, and restos. What more can you ask for in a place that has the sun, the waters, the waves, the sands, the shopping, and the entertainment, not to mention beautiful people from all over.

(Top) Glenelg Beach, Adelaide, Australia; (bottom) man-made beach in the heart of Brisbane, Australia

As mentioned earlier, every city in this country seems to have its own beach. Adelaide has Glenelg beach, which looks like the sister of St. Kilda beach, but still maintains its unique old town charm. Brisbane has a man-made beach in the middle of the city, which is a first for me (though this is not the first man-made beach I’ve been to, where Plantation Bay in Mactan Island, Cebu, Philippines has both fresh and salt water beaches). Perth does not have a beach in the city, but off its coast is Rottnest Island, an unspoilt, raw, and natural island blessed with some of the most beautiful beaches I’ve been to. Stunning would be an understatement to describe Pinky Beach. Reaching the beach from the center of the island reminds me of that same feeling I had the first time I’ve seen Boracay Island White Beach in the 90’s (at the time when it wasn’t the party island that it is today). The sun seems to be kissing the fine sands as it deflects the light (like it’s kissing back) while the seascape is mesmerizing. In the absence of any commercial establishments (except for a few restos and shops in the center of the island) and the cleanliness that has been imposed on the island. it has maintained its beautiful natural state over the years. Talk about sustainable tourism.

Rottnest Island, Australia

Ever wonder where the island got its name? Apparently an explorer in the 17th century discovered this island and thought the quokkas that are endemic to this island are rats. Since there were a lot of these gentle mammals at that time (and even up to this day), he probably thought the island is a nesting place for rats. Nowadays, people and quokkas have learned to co-exist, maintaining that balance as nature has intended it to be.

A quokka foraging for scraps (Rottnest Island, Australia)

So we have reached the end of the road for our virtual beach tour around the world. How did you find the trip, dear readers? Did you get some virtual tan while soaking into the joy and serenity that these beaches had to offer? While on quarantine, I hope this has brought sunshine in a phone or in a laptop, a temporary relief from the new reality that we live in right now. This part of our lifetime may not be the worst of experiences that we have gone thru, but if you are starting to feel like life is a bitch, think of all your blessings and come to the realization that life can also be a beach. This is coming from someone who has to go thru life with his own flaws (https://columbusbee.blog/2019/06/15/ihaveflaws/), personal tragedy, betrayal, pain, struggles, and lessons learned. But what’s life without these to live by and with? As the saying goes, what won’t kill you will only make you stronger.

Sunsets signify the end of day that was and the start of new day that will be

So if life gives you lemons, chill and make plenty of cool, refreshing lemonade. Coz you only live once, and life’s too short to realize you haven’t really lived at all. Smile and start living.

Living life like an island boy

Italy: How Thou I Love Thee? (Let Me Count The Ways) – Part 2 of 2

Travel and Positivity Buzz

Amalfi Coast (Italy)

I mentioned in the first part of this article that I’ll be going on my 3rd trip to Italy in spring. Unfortunately, both Italy and the Philippines (as well as anywhere else in the world) are going thru health crisis from the spread of coronavirus (COVID-19). Just a couple of nights ago, Metro Manila (a cluster of cities that include the capital Manila and the central business district Makati where I live) has been declared under what they call “community quarantine” for 30 days to contain the spread of the infection. In other words, lock down. We cannot fly out of Metro Manila to any destination in the country. Though we are still allowed to fly out internationally, thing is, with the rising incidence of COVID-19 cases in the country, the Philippines is now one of the countries banned by Qatar from entering their territory. Since I’ll be flying Qatar Airways with layover in Doha, that means I have to wait and see how this crisis pans out.

Stunning landscapes (Amalfi Coast)

Italy is the current epicenter of the pandemic in Europe where some of the European countries have banned travel to and from the said country. This means that flying there would compromise the other legs of my scheduled Europe trip. I don’t want to spend my holidays on quarantine in another country (I’d rather stay at home then), so would likely forgo the trip to Italy this year. I suppose my wish on Trevi fountain (to return someday) will not happen this year, so I have to find other destinations where I could regain my good spirits. As shared earlier, my feng shui says that my spirit essence is weak this year, which explains why I’ve been feeling down at the start of the year. My feng shui also says that more travels will help uplift my spirit essence, but under this worldwide pandemic scenario, not sure really which place is safe to go (can’t travel domestic as well under this community quarantine). Maybe one of those eastern European countries like the underrated Slovenia or see again Croatia and Montenegro. At this point in time, I honestly don’t know. I even haven’t thought of what to do with my flight bookings.

Short stops for stunning views (Amalfi Coast)

So while pondering on where to go next, why don’t I take you thru the second time I went to Italy. This happened two years after my first trip. If I remember it right, at that time I was contemplating of going to Turkey, Israel, and Jordan. However, that was the time when the crisis then was terrorism particularly in that region, so I have to change my travel plans. It was my sister who broached the idea of Amalfi Coast. I haven’t heard of that place before, so when I checked it out online, I knew right away where I want to go.

View from my hotel terrace (Naples)

So I booked a flight (via Frankfurt) with Malaysia Airlines. At that time, it wasn’t really a popular airline given the mystery around the disappearance of one of its airlines, but fact is, it has a very good safety track record prior to that incident. So I wasn’t that concerned about their safety record when they went on promo where I got a business class seat for $1,600 only (before taxes and surcharges) which is a good buy in a time when the prevailing rates for the same seat class are more than $3,000 for roundtrip fares from Manila. Since it’s one of the Southeast Asian carriers, I knew that topnotch hospitality service is expected which is common among airlines in the region (sorry to say but the best service that I have experienced among airlines that I’ve flown with regardless of seat class are those that are from the region like Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways, Malaysia Airlines, and even our very own Philippine Airlines). Regardless whether you are flying in a Boeing or Airbus, business or coach, it’s really the staff that counts, people who try to make a difference and in this case, Southeast Asians are arguably the best.

The City of Naples and Mount Vesuvius

My first stop was Naples (you can pronounce it the way American English would pronounce it where the first syllable is pronounced as nay, since Italians or specifically Neapolitans are already getting used to it, but you can please your host city by just saying Napoli pronouncing the first syllable as nah). From the airport to the city, my first impression was the place is filthy. This became more apparent when I started walking around the city. What crossed my mind then was that Neapolitans have no concept of a waste/garbage can. There were litters everywhere! It seems that it’s cool to just drop your trash and just move on, expecting that someone will follow thru and clean it up for you. Not cool at all. I’m not a clean freak, but I still have the decency to respect my environment, and when I say environment, that includes people around me. Apparently, there’s a prevailing notion there that the farther you go south (of Italy), the dirtier it gets (Naples is on the southern part of the country).

National Archaeological Museum (Naples)

One of the things that I love to do when visiting a place for the first time is to check out its museums. So I did just that in Naples where I went to its National Archaeological Museum. I can’t remember whether I enjoyed it the same way I would enjoy other museums in my past travels, or whether it has vast collections of artifacts. But just like any museum, my takeaways would always be that sense of history and ancestral way of life and the important gift that every visit to a museum would give which are lessons of humanity.

The castles of Naples: (left) Castel Nuovo (right) Castel Dell’Ovo

The city itself is like an open museum. There’s the Piazza del Plebiscito with its massive square where the church of St. Francis of Paola is on one side and the Royal Palace on the other. Around the city are numerous remnants of its past, from castles to churches, from old architectural heritage to various squares (piazza). To give this city a postcard perfect scenery, there’s Mount Vesuvius as backdrop to an already beautiful landscape and seascape, a fitting and dramatic addition to a place that’s very rich in history. I will give you a closer look to this majestic volcano later on when I take you thru Pompeii.

Piazza del Plebiscito (top left) and other city sights

The city coastlines are a marvel to watch. I love the leisure walk on the long promenade along the coastline, enjoying the view of the sleeping volcano and the tranquility of the Mediterranean sea. I don’t know what magic or spell this body of water has on me, but every time I’m in a place within its reach (such as Barcelona, Malta, Dubrovnik, Budva, Mykonos, and Santorini), it always gives me that feeling of joy, awe, mystery, and serenity. Though it doesn’t surprise me knowing that my feng shui element is water, which may explain why I’m always drawn to it. It’s like my own unicorn. Stopping for some gelato during these walks is just icing on the cake. One thing I noticed is that the farther you go along the coastline away from the city, the cleaner it gets.

City coastline and promenade (Naples)

Next stop is Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius. Speaking of open museum, nothing would probably beat Pompeii. If you’ve skipped your history class, you’ve probably missed out on one of history’s events of monumental scale that teaches and leaves every generation a lesson. This is when the whole city of Pompeii was buried by lava and thick volcanic ashes and other debris instantly when Mount Vesuvius erupted. Known as an ancient sin city, it was preoccupied by human frailty that it has lost any sense of safety. Long before I read about Pompeii in history books, as a young kid, I’ve watched a biblical movie that showed what happened to this ancient Roman city and its people. Every now and then, it feels like history’s repeating itself. This health crisis that we are facing now particularly in my country is nothing different than Pompeii. We’ve been preoccupied by power (as they say, power corrupts) and greed that our leaders, decision makers, security and safety agents have essentially failed us. As a people though, there’s still hope. I think that’s the only difference between Pompeii then and our country now. People got buried then and didn’t get the chance to escape. We still have a chance to escape from this vicious cycle of power and greed. It’s not the virus that will change our ways. It’s the lesson we get in every adversity as a result of our own frailty. That is if we as people are willing to take heed the lessons of history.

(Left) Ancient city of Pompeii (whole city escavated from thick volcanic debris; (right) on top of Mount Vesuvius crater

So to show how strong I was (mind, body, and spirit), I started climbing the sleeping volcano. Mounting the volcano thru its rocky trail can be tiresome, to the point that my whole body almost gave up. At that point, I was already muttering “what the hell was I thinking?” I still have other places to visit and it’s not worth being adventurous at this leg of the trip if I break my back (that was long before my spinal surgery, but was already suffering from slipped disk condition). Then I saw two elderly couple in canes climbing down on their way back to the slope. I thought if this lovely couple was able to make it to the top, then why can’t I? After my newfound inspiration and strength (mind and spirit, body is still weak), I decided to go all the way, knowing fully well that the trip back would be more perilous than the way up, with more chances of rolling down the slope with a single misstep.

Sorrento (Italy)

On to what I have been looking forward to all trip: Amalfi Coast. It’s one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world, where a series of quaint towns sit along it. First of the towns is Sorrento. It is popularly known as the home of limoncello, a native liqueur from Sorrento lemons. Every time I would dine in Italy, it would almost always come with a shot of limoncello at the end of each meal and now I know where it comes from. It has this strong acidic (like concentrated lemon juice) yet sweet taste that is soothing to the throat and kind of have a cleansing effect on the palate. Along the way, you can see lemon trees lining up the road. The town proper is scenic at the very least, where narrow avenues are lined up with colorful buildings.

Positano (Italy)

Next town is Positano. One of my favorite places in the world, this town is perched on a cliff (like Santorini), so it is hilly with steep and narrow alleyways lined up with shops that sell anything from clothes, arts and crafts to items made from lemons (perfumes, essential oils, liqueurs). It’s a very picturesque town, where colorful buildings adorn the cliff that meets the sea. There is a small beach, which adds an essential element to an already postcard perfect landscape and seascape. Its beauty is mesmerizing, that you’d be captivated enough you wouldn’t want to leave.

Amalfi (Italy)

Then there’s the town of Amalfi (where the coastline is named after). It has a bigger beach than Positano, but doesn’t have the same wow factor. Don’t get me wrong, it has its own charm, where anyone who comes here would still be captivated by its resort-like vibe and the mountain backdrop filled with houses. Plenty of dining options to choose from, more than probably what Positano can offer.

Ravello (Italy)

The last town is Ravello. It probably has the most rustic charm among the towns, where it has able to preserve a few remnants of its heritage. It’s the smallest among the four towns, yet endearing enough to make you linger a little bit longer than you would normally give places like this. Since it is on the farther end of the coastline, the calming sea views on one side and the mountainous terrain on the other side are some of its highlights.

Island of Capri (Italy)

A trip to Naples won’t be complete without taking a side trip to the island of Capri. Known as the playground of the rich and famous, I know now why some of the world’s biggest celebrities are drawn to it. Though not blessed with nice beaches like those in Mykonos and Santorini, this island has a certain charm that kind of cast a spell on you. The whole time you’re there, you’re kind of spellbound, The island is divided into two towns, one called Anacapri on one side of the island and Capri on the other side. Anacapri is steeper, which makes it more difficult for walking. There’s a small cluster of shops and restos at the town proper. This is where I had lunch with a friend named Matthew who I met in the trip. A Korean-Canadian IT guy based in Canada who is off from work for two months to traverse the whole Mediterranean coastline starting from Barcelona to Marseille to Monaco to Amalfi Coast and onward to Venice. What an adventure! But what I was more amazed at was how he was able to take time off from work for two months! How I wish I can travel for two months as well. So now I have that same itinerary in my bucket list and hopefully can cross it out in the near future.

(Left) A south american lady asked to have a photo with me (not sure if it’s because she learned I am from the Philippines or I am just naturally charming lol; (right) who says only Japan and Korea have cherry blossoms?

Funny though that in spite of all his travels, Matthew hasn’t heard of tiramisu. Each of us had one and he can’t stop raving about how good it was that I ended up giving him my own plate. Tiramisu is pretty common in the Philippines, so I thought since this guy just discovered how delightful the said dessert was, he might as well go crazy on it. After lunch, we went to the other town (Capri) and this is where most of the shops and restos are, selling anything from clothes to ceramics to souvenir items. We also went to see the Blue Grotto, a cave on the other side of the island where we have to take a speedboat to get near the entrance then transfer to a smaller boat that could fit into the cave. Once inside, you’ll probably be awed with the most beautiful shade of blue water that’s very sharp up close and piercing thru your senses. The last time I’ve experienced that wicked blue color was in Malta’s own Blue Grotto.

Blue Grotto with Matthew (Capri)

On the trip back to Naples, we met this German couple who struck a conversation with us. They shared stories about their own travels, how they love South of France (another dream destination of mine) where roads and parking lots are filled with luxury cars (of course, Germans love their cars). They said it’s everywhere. Matthew has just been there (where he mentioned that you can actually see the sea floor with corals, that’s how crystal clear the waters are which actually explains why I fell in love with Mediterranean sea in the first place), so they told me that I should also visit. Yeah, cool. Then the guy shared how he and his wife can afford all their travels, by taking us thru their investment strategies. See, who says travel is all leisure?

Capri cabs and speedboat

Looking back, that’s one of the trips that I truly enjoyed. Though I have already counted the ways I love Italy in the first part of the article, yet there are still so much more why I keep coming back. The country is a complete package. Its natural beauty is already worth a visit, the harmony between the land and Mediterranean sea is just enticing to feel and see. The magical effect of the sea on me is why I love to be anywhere near it, and Italy’s coastlines are just perfect spots to commune with the sea. But again, more than its beauty, I love Italy because of what it offers for the mind, the body (did I mention that Naples is the home of Neapolitan pizza and ice cream?), and the soul, which makes it, hands down my favorite country.

I love Italy!

Greece: Of Myths, Mediterranean Food, and Beaches – Part 2 of 2

Travel Buzz

To pick up where we left off (where I talked about Athens in the earlier part of this article), I have always been curious about the Greek isles which not a few have been raving about. That’s why before embarking on this Greek adventure, I have decided to see two of the most popular ones, Mykonos and Santorini, and booked hotels in these two islands. On my last day in Athens, I went to a local tour office in Athens and bought a one way ferry ticket to Mykonos. I got the Blue Star Ferries ticket where the port is in Piraeus, about half an hour by car (sans traffic). The ferry leaves at 8 in the morning and it’s about a 4-hour trip. There are ferries that run faster, but the faster it gets, the rougher the ride and I don’t want to get seasick thereafter. The ride was pleasant and gave me time to write another article for the blog. I got a business class seat, but on hindsight, I should have settled for economy coz the common dining lounge already looks comfortable. Business class may be advisable on peak season where coach can get too crowded for comfort.

Business class section of Blue Star Ferry

Mykonos

We reached Mykonos around noon and my mistake was not to confirm the hotel transfer with my hotel (Super Paradise Suites) that I have included in my hotel booking. So I waited for a ride that wasn’t there to start with. So after hanging up on hotel staff learning that there’s no transfer to the hotel, I shared a cab with two young ladies from Utah who happen to be staying in the same hotel. We chatted with the cab driver and learned that locals and non-locals alike only work in the island from April to September and the island becomes silent in the next 6 months. There will still be some tourists on lean months, but most of the restos and shops are closed during this period. Non-locals then return to their home base, while locals take this opportunity to travel.

Luxury shops in the island that remind me of those in Capri

The hotel is situated on the hilly edge of Super Paradise Beach (not to be mistaken with another beach in the island called Paradise Beach). So getting to and from the beach would require some hiking which I don’t mind (good daily exercise for me) but not recommended for anyone with mobility concerns given the very steep trail to the beach as well as to where the shuttle that goes to town proper would pick up passengers. When I got to my room, I was pleased with the stunning views of the beach and the Aegean sea with the mountains as backdrop. Just like any island resort, everything here is expensive. Sun beds will set you back as much as 50 euros for a day rent (prices drop as beds get farther away from the shore). Aegean sea reminds me of Mediterranean sea, mystical, magical, enticing clear blue waters (the latter though is on the greenish shade). Per feng shui, my birth element is water, so I’m not surprised why I always get attracted to bodies of water. Maybe I’m a descendant of Poseidon (who lost by the way to Athena on that epic battle I shared in the first part of the article).

View from my room (Super Paradise Suites)

Mykonos, like Bali, is a beach haven so your trip to the island would mostly consists of beach hopping. On hindsight, I should have stayed in any of the hotels in the town proper since that is where all the buses that go to the different beaches pick passengers. It could have saved me a few euros from the daily shuttle between my hotel and the town proper and getting on a bus to the next beach. But what didn’t save me from the island greed was a trip to Platys Gialos beach. That’s where I realized that Mykonos, with all its charm and beauty, can also have the most cruel tourist trap that even the most seasoned traveler could fall victim to. I made a mistake of being lured into Dk Oyster, a beachfront seafood resto. With its nice sun beds facing a beautiful beach, I was enticed with what the in-house ‘hawkers’ sell as a good buy where if you dine in the resto for at least 50 euros, you get a sun bed all day for free, otherwise you pay the same amount up front for a day rent. So I went in and came out 700 euros lighter and 700 euros wiser. How’d that happen? Below is the screen grab from my Tripadvisor review:

The biggest lesson I got from this experience is not what I’ve lost but how to keep a positive mindset after the initial shock and trauma. As I’ve said, it was cruel, which took me a while to recover, but when I did, I tried to condition myself to continue enjoying the holiday and just find ways to cut my losses. I’m here on a holiday and no matter what happens, I’ll move on and enjoy the rest of my vacation. First task I did after accepting my fate was to downgrade my Istanbul hotel (last leg of my trip) which I booked thru my Le Club Accor so I was still able to cancel it a few days before my actual stay. I was able to save a few hundred euros after finding a much cheaper hotel (but in a less desirable location though). I was also able to cut on my onward ferry ticket to Santorini and saved a few more euros from giving up sun beds and just lay on the sands to enjoy the sun and the sea. On hindsight, I should have checked the reviews in Tripadvisor before getting in, coz now I’ve learned that not a few have been victimized by Dk Oyster, with each one having a #metoo horror story to tell. The vileness continues, where for every negative review, Tripadvisor will be flooded with fake positive reviews (you be the judge when you read all the ‘positive’ reviews particularly this peak season). But in spite of all these, I stayed true to myself and kept whatever dignity I have left from this experience: I didn’t scrimp on food (see Travel In Style Part 2) and would never blame my misfortune on being a foodie. Bad things happen to good people not because they love good food.

Some of the meals I had in Mykonos. From left: Spaghetti Frutti de Mare, Mussels Marinara, and Lamb Chops (yes, they are all delish!)

So I also checked out Paradise Beach. Just like Super Paradise beach, party starts at 4PM when the sound systems would start booming loud music and partyphiles would gather and groove in their swimwear with drinks on hand. As in Super Paradise beach, there is a portion of the beach for nudist, where young and old, of different shapes and sizes, will bare and let it all hang out like it’s nobody’s business. Someone who comes from a conservative society like the Philippines would probably cringe at the sight, but not me. I’ve seen similar places before (like the lakes in Germany during summer) where I’d probably be more culture shocked with how nasty tourist traps are than public nudity. So if you think my swimwear pics are too out there, think again. Coz that’s nothing compared to what’s out there.

Santorini

So after having enough of the popular beaches (and greed) of Mykonos, I took a ferry to Santorini. I bought a one way Golden Star ferry ticket from a tour office in Mykonos town. The trip from Mykonos to Santorini was about 5 hours, so it gave me some more free time to finish an article I was writing. Unlike what happened at Mykonos port, I have a driver waiting for me at Santorini port to bring me to Ersi Villas. On the way, I chatted with the driver and unlike Mykonos, Santorini is open all year round to tourists. Upon dropping me at the villas, I instantly got the homey vibe and feel that I was expecting from this kind of accommodation. I was met by Elias, the amiable owner of the villas and right away gave me directions and tips on what to do in the island. A traveler himself, Elias knows exactly what guests need and was even generous in swapping travel stories with me as well as helping me out with my island itinerary.

The villa is located on the mid section of the hill (Santorini is hilly, like San Francisco hilly) in Firostefani. Firostefani is in between Fira, the capital town, and Imerovigli. Firostefani has good number of shops and restos, and the walk path from Firostefani square to Imerovigli is what I would call the best resto row. Here you will find some of the best restos in the island, from To Briki to La Maison. They offer traditional Greek dishes and my ultimate fave, seafood! All three towns are easy walk from each other, that’s why no need to take the bus, unless you want to get to the far end of the island where Oia is with its popular sunset or to the different beaches in the island. Just like in Mykonos, you have to take the buses at the Fira town proper to get to the different beaches.

A guy proposing to his girl at the popular Oia sunset viewing deck. Everyone in the crowd who was there for the sunset cheered after she said “Uhmm…” Just kidding, she said yes 🙂

If I have to describe Santorini in one word, then it would be ‘stunning.’ It actually reminds me of Positano, where the views are just simply stunning. Even the beaches have better views than Mykonos. It makes me wonder now why I even went to Mykonos, when Santorini can offer the same experience (except for the greed) plus so much more. From its caldera to mountain views, beaches to sunsets, dining to shopping, everything seems to bring out only positive and exciting experience. Santorinians are more welcoming, hospitable, and true, and seems to put guest satisfaction over selfish gains. In fact, during this whole Greek adventure, it was in Santorini where I had the best dining experience. I never had any disappointment in all the restos I have dined in where not only the food was great, but the service was at par with my personal standards and expectations and you are seated at the edge of the caldera with its magnificent views.

Best dining experience (need I say more?). From left: Amberjack (La Maison), Dorade (The Greeks), Pork Ribs (To Briki), and Pork Steak (Metropolis Str.)

The beaches did not disappoint as well. Being born out of volcanic activity, Santorini is blessed with beaches that have stunning views and clear waters. I’ve never been happier doing beach hopping, even if I had to take a treacherous path just to get to one of the popular ones called Red Beach. You know, you have to take this very narrow and steep trail with sharp edged rocks and boulders, where some slight miscalculations will easily scrape that beautiful tanned skin. Then you have to negotiate for space in the foot traffic between people going down and up the trail. Though I didn’t overhear anyone saying “is there like an elevator or something?” (Part 1 of this article) but how I wish there was an easier way to get to the beach. The boat that I took for the sea cruise does not pick up or offload passengers on the beach, so the only way to get there is to take this dangerous path. I almost gave up mid way, but I’m just glad I didn’t. If only for the stunning views, I would recommend it for a visit, but just be careful going down and up the trail.

Imagine climbing down to reach the beach and up again to the main road (Red Beach)

So I ended my Greek adventure on a high note, where Santorini was definitely the highlight of the trip. As I mentioned in the first part of this article, there were hiccups and misfortunes along the way, but what is an adventure without the unexpected, the twist and turns, the danger, and most importantly the lessons learned. As I contemplate on my flight back to Athens to take my onward flight to Istanbul, I smiled knowing that I had a good one inspite of. As I’ve quoted in my earlier article (The Joys of Travelling Solo), I would come out a different person from each trip and now I’m a better version of myself than I was before I embarked on this trip. Like in the Greek mythology, I have fought some battles and personal demons along the way (where you would tend to question yourself and create self doubt) of which I have won and restored my core, appreciated the goodness of Mediterranean food, and enjoyed the beach life just how it should be lived.

Life’s a beach. From top left clockwise: Perissa Beach, Kamari Beach, Platys Gialos Beach, & Super Paradise Beach (Hey Sports Illustrated, why don’t you consider these locations for next year’s swimsuit edition with Kelsey Merritt on the cover?)