Italy: How Thou I Love Thee? (Let Me Count The Ways) – Part 2 of 2

Travel and Positivity Buzz

Amalfi Coast (Italy)

I mentioned in the first part of this article that I’ll be going on my 3rd trip to Italy in spring. Unfortunately, both Italy and the Philippines (as well as anywhere else in the world) are going thru health crisis from the spread of coronavirus (COVID-19). Just a couple of nights ago, Metro Manila (a cluster of cities that include the capital Manila and the central business district Makati where I live) has been declared under what they call “community quarantine” for 30 days to contain the spread of the infection. In other words, lock down. We cannot fly out of Metro Manila to any destination in the country. Though we are still allowed to fly out internationally, thing is, with the rising incidence of COVID-19 cases in the country, the Philippines is now one of the countries banned by Qatar from entering their territory. Since I’ll be flying Qatar Airways with layover in Doha, that means I have to wait and see how this crisis pans out.

Stunning landscapes (Amalfi Coast)

Italy is the current epicenter of the pandemic in Europe where some of the European countries have banned travel to and from the said country. This means that flying there would compromise the other legs of my scheduled Europe trip. I don’t want to spend my holidays on quarantine in another country (I’d rather stay at home then), so would likely forgo the trip to Italy this year. I suppose my wish on Trevi fountain (to return someday) will not happen this year, so I have to find other destinations where I could regain my good spirits. As shared earlier, my feng shui says that my spirit essence is weak this year, which explains why I’ve been feeling down at the start of the year. My feng shui also says that more travels will help uplift my spirit essence, but under this worldwide pandemic scenario, not sure really which place is safe to go (can’t travel domestic as well under this community quarantine). Maybe one of those eastern European countries like the underrated Slovenia or see again Croatia and Montenegro. At this point in time, I honestly don’t know. I even haven’t thought of what to do with my flight bookings.

Short stops for stunning views (Amalfi Coast)

So while pondering on where to go next, why don’t I take you thru the second time I went to Italy. This happened two years after my first trip. If I remember it right, at that time I was contemplating of going to Turkey, Israel, and Jordan. However, that was the time when the crisis then was terrorism particularly in that region, so I have to change my travel plans. It was my sister who broached the idea of Amalfi Coast. I haven’t heard of that place before, so when I checked it out online, I knew right away where I want to go.

View from my hotel terrace (Naples)

So I booked a flight (via Frankfurt) with Malaysia Airlines. At that time, it wasn’t really a popular airline given the mystery around the disappearance of one of its airlines, but fact is, it has a very good safety track record prior to that incident. So I wasn’t that concerned about their safety record when they went on promo where I got a business class seat for $1,600 only (before taxes and surcharges) which is a good buy in a time when the prevailing rates for the same seat class are more than $3,000 for roundtrip fares from Manila. Since it’s one of the Southeast Asian carriers, I knew that topnotch hospitality service is expected which is common among airlines in the region (sorry to say but the best service that I have experienced among airlines that I’ve flown with regardless of seat class are those that are from the region like Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways, Malaysia Airlines, and even our very own Philippine Airlines). Regardless whether you are flying in a Boeing or Airbus, business or coach, it’s really the staff that counts, people who try to make a difference and in this case, Southeast Asians are arguably the best.

The City of Naples and Mount Vesuvius

My first stop was Naples (you can pronounce it the way American English would pronounce it where the first syllable is pronounced as nay, since Italians or specifically Neapolitans are already getting used to it, but you can please your host city by just saying Napoli pronouncing the first syllable as nah). From the airport to the city, my first impression was the place is filthy. This became more apparent when I started walking around the city. What crossed my mind then was that Neapolitans have no concept of a waste/garbage can. There were litters everywhere! It seems that it’s cool to just drop your trash and just move on, expecting that someone will follow thru and clean it up for you. Not cool at all. I’m not a clean freak, but I still have the decency to respect my environment, and when I say environment, that includes people around me. Apparently, there’s a prevailing notion there that the farther you go south (of Italy), the dirtier it gets (Naples is on the southern part of the country).

National Archaeological Museum (Naples)

One of the things that I love to do when visiting a place for the first time is to check out its museums. So I did just that in Naples where I went to its National Archaeological Museum. I can’t remember whether I enjoyed it the same way I would enjoy other museums in my past travels, or whether it has vast collections of artifacts. But just like any museum, my takeaways would always be that sense of history and ancestral way of life and the important gift that every visit to a museum would give which are lessons of humanity.

The castles of Naples: (left) Castel Nuovo (right) Castel Dell’Ovo

The city itself is like an open museum. There’s the Piazza del Plebiscito with its massive square where the church of St. Francis of Paola is on one side and the Royal Palace on the other. Around the city are numerous remnants of its past, from castles to churches, from old architectural heritage to various squares (piazza). To give this city a postcard perfect scenery, there’s Mount Vesuvius as backdrop to an already beautiful landscape and seascape, a fitting and dramatic addition to a place that’s very rich in history. I will give you a closer look to this majestic volcano later on when I take you thru Pompeii.

Piazza del Plebiscito (top left) and other city sights

The city coastlines are a marvel to watch. I love the leisure walk on the long promenade along the coastline, enjoying the view of the sleeping volcano and the tranquility of the Mediterranean sea. I don’t know what magic or spell this body of water has on me, but every time I’m in a place within its reach (such as Barcelona, Malta, Dubrovnik, Budva, Mykonos, and Santorini), it always gives me that feeling of joy, awe, mystery, and serenity. Though it doesn’t surprise me knowing that my feng shui element is water, which may explain why I’m always drawn to it. It’s like my own unicorn. Stopping for some gelato during these walks is just icing on the cake. One thing I noticed is that the farther you go along the coastline away from the city, the cleaner it gets.

City coastline and promenade (Naples)

Next stop is Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius. Speaking of open museum, nothing would probably beat Pompeii. If you’ve skipped your history class, you’ve probably missed out on one of history’s events of monumental scale that teaches and leaves every generation a lesson. This is when the whole city of Pompeii was buried by lava and thick volcanic ashes and other debris instantly when Mount Vesuvius erupted. Known as an ancient sin city, it was preoccupied by human frailty that it has lost any sense of safety. Long before I read about Pompeii in history books, as a young kid, I’ve watched a biblical movie that showed what happened to this ancient Roman city and its people. Every now and then, it feels like history’s repeating itself. This health crisis that we are facing now particularly in my country is nothing different than Pompeii. We’ve been preoccupied by power (as they say, power corrupts) and greed that our leaders, decision makers, security and safety agents have essentially failed us. As a people though, there’s still hope. I think that’s the only difference between Pompeii then and our country now. People got buried then and didn’t get the chance to escape. We still have a chance to escape from this vicious cycle of power and greed. It’s not the virus that will change our ways. It’s the lesson we get in every adversity as a result of our own frailty. That is if we as people are willing to take heed the lessons of history.

(Left) Ancient city of Pompeii (whole city escavated from thick volcanic debris; (right) on top of Mount Vesuvius crater

So to show how strong I was (mind, body, and spirit), I started climbing the sleeping volcano. Mounting the volcano thru its rocky trail can be tiresome, to the point that my whole body almost gave up. At that point, I was already muttering “what the hell was I thinking?” I still have other places to visit and it’s not worth being adventurous at this leg of the trip if I break my back (that was long before my spinal surgery, but was already suffering from slipped disk condition). Then I saw two elderly couple in canes climbing down on their way back to the slope. I thought if this lovely couple was able to make it to the top, then why can’t I? After my newfound inspiration and strength (mind and spirit, body is still weak), I decided to go all the way, knowing fully well that the trip back would be more perilous than the way up, with more chances of rolling down the slope with a single misstep.

Sorrento (Italy)

On to what I have been looking forward to all trip: Amalfi Coast. It’s one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world, where a series of quaint towns sit along it. First of the towns is Sorrento. It is popularly known as the home of limoncello, a native liqueur from Sorrento lemons. Every time I would dine in Italy, it would almost always come with a shot of limoncello at the end of each meal and now I know where it comes from. It has this strong acidic (like concentrated lemon juice) yet sweet taste that is soothing to the throat and kind of have a cleansing effect on the palate. Along the way, you can see lemon trees lining up the road. The town proper is scenic at the very least, where narrow avenues are lined up with colorful buildings.

Positano (Italy)

Next town is Positano. One of my favorite places in the world, this town is perched on a cliff (like Santorini), so it is hilly with steep and narrow alleyways lined up with shops that sell anything from clothes, arts and crafts to items made from lemons (perfumes, essential oils, liqueurs). It’s a very picturesque town, where colorful buildings adorn the cliff that meets the sea. There is a small beach, which adds an essential element to an already postcard perfect landscape and seascape. Its beauty is mesmerizing, that you’d be captivated enough you wouldn’t want to leave.

Amalfi (Italy)

Then there’s the town of Amalfi (where the coastline is named after). It has a bigger beach than Positano, but doesn’t have the same wow factor. Don’t get me wrong, it has its own charm, where anyone who comes here would still be captivated by its resort-like vibe and the mountain backdrop filled with houses. Plenty of dining options to choose from, more than probably what Positano can offer.

Ravello (Italy)

The last town is Ravello. It probably has the most rustic charm among the towns, where it has able to preserve a few remnants of its heritage. It’s the smallest among the four towns, yet endearing enough to make you linger a little bit longer than you would normally give places like this. Since it is on the farther end of the coastline, the calming sea views on one side and the mountainous terrain on the other side are some of its highlights.

Island of Capri (Italy)

A trip to Naples won’t be complete without taking a side trip to the island of Capri. Known as the playground of the rich and famous, I know now why some of the world’s biggest celebrities are drawn to it. Though not blessed with nice beaches like those in Mykonos and Santorini, this island has a certain charm that kind of cast a spell on you. The whole time you’re there, you’re kind of spellbound, The island is divided into two towns, one called Anacapri on one side of the island and Capri on the other side. Anacapri is steeper, which makes it more difficult for walking. There’s a small cluster of shops and restos at the town proper. This is where I had lunch with a friend named Matthew who I met in the trip. A Korean-Canadian IT guy based in Canada who is off from work for two months to traverse the whole Mediterranean coastline starting from Barcelona to Marseille to Monaco to Amalfi Coast and onward to Venice. What an adventure! But what I was more amazed at was how he was able to take time off from work for two months! How I wish I can travel for two months as well. So now I have that same itinerary in my bucket list and hopefully can cross it out in the near future.

(Left) A south american lady asked to have a photo with me (not sure if it’s because she learned I am from the Philippines or I am just naturally charming lol; (right) who says only Japan and Korea have cherry blossoms?

Funny though that in spite of all his travels, Matthew hasn’t heard of tiramisu. Each of us had one and he can’t stop raving about how good it was that I ended up giving him my own plate. Tiramisu is pretty common in the Philippines, so I thought since this guy just discovered how delightful the said dessert was, he might as well go crazy on it. After lunch, we went to the other town (Capri) and this is where most of the shops and restos are, selling anything from clothes to ceramics to souvenir items. We also went to see the Blue Grotto, a cave on the other side of the island where we have to take a speedboat to get near the entrance then transfer to a smaller boat that could fit into the cave. Once inside, you’ll probably be awed with the most beautiful shade of blue water that’s very sharp up close and piercing thru your senses. The last time I’ve experienced that wicked blue color was in Malta’s own Blue Grotto.

Blue Grotto with Matthew (Capri)

On the trip back to Naples, we met this German couple who struck a conversation with us. They shared stories about their own travels, how they love South of France (another dream destination of mine) where roads and parking lots are filled with luxury cars (of course, Germans love their cars). They said it’s everywhere. Matthew has just been there (where he mentioned that you can actually see the sea floor with corals, that’s how crystal clear the waters are which actually explains why I fell in love with Mediterranean sea in the first place), so they told me that I should also visit. Yeah, cool. Then the guy shared how he and his wife can afford all their travels, by taking us thru their investment strategies. See, who says travel is all leisure?

Capri cabs and speedboat

Looking back, that’s one of the trips that I truly enjoyed. Though I have already counted the ways I love Italy in the first part of the article, yet there are still so much more why I keep coming back. The country is a complete package. Its natural beauty is already worth a visit, the harmony between the land and Mediterranean sea is just enticing to feel and see. The magical effect of the sea on me is why I love to be anywhere near it, and Italy’s coastlines are just perfect spots to commune with the sea. But again, more than its beauty, I love Italy because of what it offers for the mind, the body (did I mention that Naples is the home of Neapolitan pizza and ice cream?), and the soul, which makes it, hands down my favorite country.

I love Italy!

The Joys of Travelling (Solo)

Travel Buzz

On top of the world (Cape Town)

Travelling alone seems to be a distant and daunting concept to most people. I remember in my latest foreign trip last December to Bangkok and Pattaya where the Philippine immigration officer asked me what’s the purpose of my travel to Thailand and I said ‘For vacation.’ That puzzling look comes with the dreaded question “Alone?”. I said ‘Yes.’ I lost count of how many times I would have to answer that question, both here in my beloved country and at the passport control of some countries (though some countries have already recognized the growing niche market of people travelling solo, particularly among millennials). So what makes travelling solo appealing to people like me?

Wandering in the wild while on wildlife safari (Pilanesberg)

Not that I don’t like traveling with company. I had the pleasure of traveling with my folks a few years ago to Europe. Since I’ve been to Europe a few times before that trip, I was officially their travel guide, baggage collector, personal assistant, and jack of all trades. It gave me the opportunity to play a role of a good host, making sure that all their needs are taken care of. I’ve never seen my Dad cried before, so when I finally did see those tears of joy, it was priceless. My Mom now has bragging rights of having breakfast in Italy, lunch in Spain, and dinner in France all in the same day! How’d that happen? Well, after spending a week in Italy, the next leg of the trip was Lourdes (France). But there was no direct flight from Rome to Lourdes, where we have to take a flight via Barcelona with about 5 hours layover. Since it was an early flight, we had breakfast in Rome. When we arrived in Barcelona before 10AM, knowing that we have about 5 hours to kill, I decided to bring them to the city (I was in Barcelona the year before so I pretty much know my way around). So I rented a locker in the airport, put all our hand-carry bags in, and took a cab to the city. I brought them to Sagrada Familia, the iconic, majestic Gaudi creation that is still unfinished up to this day. Then we had lunch before we took our connecting flight to Lourdes. We arrived in Lourdes late in the afternoon and had an early dinner.

Stumbling into the bizarre (Kuthna Hora)

I also had traveled with my sis and bro-in-law, both in Europe and US, a few years ago. For the Europe trip, we went together to London, then went our separate ways , them to places I’ve been to, while I to places I haven’t been to. We rendezvoused in Paris (among my top 5 cities), after which we went back to London for our return flight to Manila. With them it’s different, coz I’m in a company of people my age (ok, I’m a few years older, but believe me, I would usually be mistaken as the younger sibling). The activities and the dining are also different, since there are 3 people making decisions.

I have traveled with friends also and that too is different experience. You know, you play roles and act differently when you’re with your friends, family, and peers at work. You are behaved with parents, can be timid with siblings, goofy with friends, and proper with peers or staff at work.

Standing in the oldest standing structure in the world (Gozo)

So what makes traveling solo appealing? Traveling alone gives you that freedom to be just yourself. You don’t have to be behaved, timid, goofy, and proper. You are free as a bird. That freedom leads you to a path of self discovery.

As I mentioned in my earlier post (entitled Hey, it’s me), ‘I travel to overwhelm my senses, to discover and to explore, to savor and experience so that at the end of the day, I’ll come out a different, better person with a story to tell.’ What better way to achieve that than by traveling alone. This is why I now have stories to tell. I’m now a different person than I was before my last trip, than I was on that trip prior to the last one, and so on and so forth. The path to self discovery is best traveled only with and by yourself.

Channeling Leonardo di Caprio on The Beach (Phi Phi Island)

Traveling solo also gives you the flexibility and latitude to make the trip exclusively your own. You don’t have to wait for someone if you want to start your day already. You don’t have to worry if you want to make changes in your itinerary. You don’t have to be constrained by the needs of your company. Your time is your own. You don’t have to deal with the drama coz your drama is your own.

Charming the snakes with the snake charmers (Marrakesh)

The next best thing after self discovery is that you meet people and see the goodness in them. A couple of years back, I tripped and fell on the rugged cobblestone covered streets of Porto. Since it was my hand and cellphone that broke the fall, my hand was dripping with blood and I was a bit disoriented while lying still on the ground. Tourists and locals alike ran towards me to assist and helped me get up. Some offered me bottled water, thinking I was dehydrated and lost consciousness under the summer heat. In a second, you feel you’re not alone. Though your world turned upside down after the fall, you are surrounded by thoughtful, caring, and generous strangers, thinking how lucky you are to experience the innate goodness and pureness of heart.

Wild river adventure (Queenstown)

Then there are the new friends you meet along the way. I have met young and old, abled and disabled, singles, couples, and families. The thing with solo travelers is that we tend to be magnets to families particularly if you have a certain charm (wink wink). How many times have I been invited to join families having a meal, or in their family activities. Like an adopted son or nephew. It’s actually very heartwarming.

Dennis and Maria of Germany. Lovely couple I met while having tapas in a resto (Barcelona)

You also tend to be adventurous when you are on your own. You try things you haven’t tried before, go to places you haven’t seen before. From mounting Mt. Vesuvius to cruising Milford Sounds. From discovering the bizarre in Kuthna Hora to navigating the exotic medinas of Marrakesh and Essaouira. To be awed by Kotor and dreamy in Amalfi. From channeling Leonardo di Caprio on The Beach of Phi Phi Island to water rafting the rivers of Queenstown for the Lord of the Rings sceneries. To be captivated by the Game of Thrones vibe of Dubrovnik and held captive for a moment in Alcatraz. From exploring the old in Gozo to what’s new in Shinjuku. You will realize that there is so much more you can do on your own.

History on The Rock (Alcatraz)

So have I convinced you to go solo? I know that travel is not for everyone, much more traveling alone, but you should at least try it once in your lifetime. You will discover the world around you and uncover the world within you.

Back home feeling homey (Palawan)