The Contrasting Colors of Tokyo and Kyoto – Part 2 of 2

Travel Buzz

(Left) Arashiyama Bamboo Grove; (Right) Tokyo Skytree viewing deck

In the first part of this article, I mentioned that my sister, brother-in-law, and I are going to Japan in December. After my surgery a few weeks ago (see article “MLNRD at St. Luke’s Medical Center-Global City: The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly”), we have decided to cancel the trip (we actually have tickets already which we bought when China Airlines had a promo a couple of months ago where we got business class tickets for only $800). We thought that it would be winter in Japan this time of the year and winter clothes would require big luggages and given that I cannot lift and carry anything more than 15% of my weight post surgery, we decided to go next year instead. I’m planning to go now to a sunny destination (where all I have to bring are a few shirts, shorts, tanning lotion, slippers, and swimwear) and I’m thinking Thailand and Vietnam. Now that Japan is off the table, let me pick up where I left off in the last article.

Kyoto

From Tokyo, I took the train to Kyoto using my JR pass that I mentioned in the first part of this article. The pass is not a ticket itself, so you have to go to the nearest JR office to avail a reserved ticket by presenting your JR pass. It took about 3 hours to get to Kyoto using the Shinkansen or bullet trains. While in transit, I got a call thru Viber from Manila HR office that I was scheduled for a final interview for a new role that I was interested in. Before embarking on this trip, I have already hurdled a series of interviews with interviewers from the different Asia Pacific hubs and the final interview would be with the director from the US office. I told HR that I’ll be back in the office the week after so I can take the interview there. However, the director was in London that time and wants to conduct the interview London time (which is more convenient for these two time zones) so he wanted to do it the following day before flying back to the US. So I gave HR my Kyoto hotel number so that the director can call me there in the afternoon (5PM Kyoto or 8AM London).

Japanese frozen treats: Lady Borden ice cream (left) and shaved ice topped with fresh ripe mangoes (right)

I checked in later that afternoon at Ibis Styles Kyoto using my Le Club Accor. I already have an itinerary in my mind so I decided to see the Kinkakuji Temple or the Golden Pavilion which is considered as one of Japan’s most beautiful temples. Unfortunately, it was already closed for the day (they close early, I reckon 5PM) so I ended up exploring the surrounding gardens and had a frozen treat after (Lady Borden ice cream by Lotte Co Ltd, apparently the market leader in Japan for ice cream and frozen desserts) which was just what I needed under the summer heat. Japan loves its ice cream especially during summer months (and winter as well) so it’s not surprising to see vending machines at tourist spots, including temples, carrying frozen treats.

Mt. Inari footpath (Fushimi-Inari)

There were two things that I was looking forward to in this leg of the trip. The iconic Mt. Inari (Fushimi-Inari) footpath and Kobe beef. So the next day, I decided to see Mt. Inari and know more about this popular spot. Folklore has it that this place enshrines the god Inari, who is revered as the god of the rice harvest, commerce, and business. A fox symbolizes the messenger of the god, so you will encounter shrines along the footpath that have statues of foxes. I even bought souvenirs (fox tokens) in one of the shrines for good luck (maybe bringer of good news in the future). The climb was not that steep, but because of the steps and the scorching summer heat. it was really difficult to complete the hike (get to the apex of the mountain) particularly when I was literally drenched in sweat and my back and legs were already killing me. Upon reaching the mid point of the trail, I thought I had enough, so I’ve decided to go back but took a different path that was more like flat foot trail rather than stair-like steps. Good thing that I took this path instead, coz while the steps have those series of reddish torii (which are actually more on the orangy side) that made this place postcard perfect and iconic, this alternative trail down is where most of the shrines are along the footpath. So I got to experience both the path of torii (these were donated or offered by different individuals and companies that came together and created this beautiful mountain trail) and the path of shrines.

The red and white dot on the board (that says “you are here” in Japanese) shows how far I’ve climbed Mt. Inari

Tired and dehydrated, I got myself another frozen treat. This time, it came in the form of shaved ice topped with a very generous serving of fresh ripe mangoes. Simple, raw, nothing extraordinary, but refreshing. I was just so happy to see it. Reminds me of home, when I realized that I have an interview to make. It was already past 3 in the afternoon and I need to be back in my hotel by 5. I got to my hotel with about an hour to spare, so I rested for a while and freshened up before the call. I thought I’m going to pick up where I left off after the interview. So I went the minute I hung up the phone, putting the thought of whether I got the role or not in a box and set it aside in the meantime while I continue to enjoy the rest of the trip.

Kobe beef teppanyaki. The presentation is spot on (Premium Pound Sanjo-Kiyamachi).

The foodie in me has to try at least once the famous Kobe beef. So I went around looking for the best Kyoto restaurant that offers a delicious Kobe beef teppanyaki. I found Premium Pound Sanjo-Kiyamachi popular for its aged Kobe beef. It took me a while to find it (damn Google maps) but was just happy to discover it. From the time I got seated, I could already sense that I was in the right place. The ambiance was classy (no tacky decors or in your face setting) and the staff speak good English. The chair was so comfy (I like eating in a very comfortable chair) and the service was spot on. Then the Kobe beef. What can I say? Probably as good, if not better, than the wagyu beef I had in Tokyo. Not only that the food and service were great, it was probably the first time where I truly felt the Japanese hospitality in all my dining experiences in Japan so far.

(Top) Arashiyama Bamboo Grove; (Below) Hanamikoji-dori (Gion District). Geisha caught on camera (real or fake?).

I went to see two more popular tourist spots: Arashiyama Bamboo Grove and the Gion district. The former is known for its dense bamboo forest. I kinda lost getting there, which apparently has two gates, one that can be reached thru the subway train, while the other thru a vintage train that passes thru scenic suburbs. This is the closest that one can commune with nature and would have been great if there were pandas to complete the experience (lol wishful thinking). Gion district, on the other hand, is known as Kyoto’s geisha district. Contrary to popular belief, a real geisha is rarely sighted, as she would normally be inside a cab and will only alight once she reached the door of her tea house where she works and will stay inside the whole time. Geishas don’t go out to mingle with pedestrians and they are not often seen in public. So those you see walking the streets of Hanamikoji-dori, or at the Tatsumi bridge, are either fake ones or some wannabes who just want to dress up like one. A friend of mine asked me if I have seen the movie “Memoirs of a Geisha” and I told her yes but that was a fictional and tragic depiction of a geisha. It doesn’t even come close to a real geisha or even a mako (geisha apprentice). I told her that Westerners should be educated of real geisha culture. A legit geisha is one who performs tea ceremony and does her job professionally (just like everyone else), with utmost dedication and commitment to the art of preparing and presentation of the Way of the Tea. That’s why not everyone can have tea ceremony with a real geisha, coz if I were travelling with a group, we would have probably shared the expense. That’s how expensive a tea ceremony is with a legit one (no, I didn’t have tea ceremony in case you’re wondering, coz I don’t want to spend that much).

Choose your path to luck: Take the stair-like steps of the torii path to see the apparently century old tree where whoever goes under its roots will have good luck or take the flat foot trail and make several stops to the different shrines that will bring you blessings of the gods.

The impression left by these two cities on me was that the backdrop may be different, but they share similarities in a lot of ways. Tokyo surely belongs to the digital world where the shades are neutral, metallic, to some degree muted and tempered yet can burst into a kaleidoscope of colors while Kyoto still maintains that old earthly charm yet with organic tones of vibrant, primary hues. Like in a canvass, the contrast is well defined (no doubt about it), but I also can’t help but think that there’s a commonality between the two that can’t be ignored, like the still objects in a painting. Both share the love for good, well-made beef (Wagyu and Kobe), aged to perfection. Both share the same belief in the supernatural, the goodness of luck, and blessings of the deities (Tokyo’s ema and Kyoto’s foxes). This is not something to be shrugged off, coz though the new role was mine to lose, I soon realized that it wasn’t a good fit for me, but I was just glad to know that I was lucky to have the opportunity and that some higher powers guiding me thru to discern what’s really good for me. But ultimately, what captivated me more than the perceived omnipotence of the shrines/temples on one hand and the heated toilet seats and automated bidet on the other was the spirit of the Japanese people, the discipline and good-naturedness that simply rub off quickly. This is the best that both cities can offer, where the crust may be different, but the core is the same. Just being around them makes one feel really good.

The Contrasting Colors Of Tokyo And Kyoto – Part 1 of 2

Travel and Food Buzz

Neutral, metallic shades of Tokyo (Mori Tower Observation Deck) and vibrant, primary hues of Kyoto (Mt. Inari Foot Path)

My sister, brother-in-law, and I are planning to go to Japan in December so I thought why not write something about my last trip to the land of the rising sun. I went to Japan July last year and didn’t know that it was the peak of the summer season. Since it was my first time, I had no idea how hot and humid summers are in that country, which feels like summers in the Philippines. I don’t normally go to places when it’s too warm unless it’s a beach destination, so this is another first for me.

A lot of my friends were asking why it took so long before I finally decided to visit Japan. I don’t really have a ready answer to that, but probably because of its close proximity, I tend to see farther destinations as more desirable. My American ex-boss who’s based there even frowned on me when he learned that I keep going back to Europe almost every year yet I haven’t taken up his standing offer to visit him while he was still there. It was too late when I finally did, since he and his family left the country before the trip.

Urban jungle of Tokyo and bamboo jungle of Kyoto

Incidentally there was another fare promo that was very enticing and ultimately was the clincher. The business class fare of Eva Air to Tokyo via Taipei was a good buy (Manila-Taipei-Narita-Taipei-Manila was about $700) so I decided to book it before I changed my mind. Then I have to apply for a visa (which was quick, took only about 3 days processing time thru a travel agency) and bought a JR Pass (only offered to tourists and can only be bought in your home country since it’s not available in Japan). The pass can save you train fare big time especially if you are flying in Narita (it’s an almost 2-hour train ride to Tokyo) and have plans of taking the train to other big cities like Kyoto or Osaka. I got a 7-day pass, so it covered my return trips for Kyoto and Narita with most of my Tokyo subway rides as well. But it doesn’t come cheap (between $250-$400 depending on your choice of cabin class) just like everything else in Japan.

Tokyo

I stayed in Shinjuku area (known as the red light district or the “district that never sleeps”), where I booked a room at Ibis Tokyo Shinjuku. The room came with a mobile phone (called “Handy”) which you can use (for free) for navigating the city as well as knowing which subway line to take to reach certain stations. You can also make free international calls to certain countries (unfortunately, Philippines was not one of those select countries). I learned while I was there that Tokyo is like a cluster of districts (where an area also called Tokyo is one of these districts, along with Shinjuku). I used my Le Club Accor for this accommodation and it is in a very good location since it is accessible to the subway station (to reach the other districts) and most of the dining, shopping, and entertainment spots. As expected, the area was bustling with people day and night in spite of the summer heat. I was quite overwhelmed with the dining options that it took me a while to finally settle for a resto to have my first dinner.

My room (Ibis Tokyo Shinjuku). I got the twin coz it’s the biggest room (in a country where space is a luxury, this one is a good buy)

The first morning since I arrived in the hotel I had breakfast which consisted of typical buffet fare. It was a decent selection, but what really fascinated me was the miso soup machine that operates like a coffee maker. You insert your bowl and press a button and hot water and miso paste come out from separate dispensers. The paste mixes with the running hot water to make a bowl of miso soup. You thought it may just be another fancy invention that produces mediocre, plain, bland, copycat of a miso soup, but this one was delicious! I would have at least two helpings every morning while I was there. I was even wondering where I can buy the machine and the paste, but never cared to ask since I can’t bring home an equipment that is not so light to carry or check in my luggage. Speaking of technology, another thing that I love about Japan is the heated toilet seats and automated bidet. Both private and public restrooms would have these, and for that alone, I would come back to Japan in a heartbeat. If I could only collapse and carry it back home, I would.

Shinjuku After Dark

With always a full tummy every morning, I would start exploring the city just like any other tourist. It was difficult though to move around under that scorching summer heat but fortunately, there were shops that gave away free plastic hand fans. So imagine me walking around with a fan on one hand and a bottle of water on the other. It is important to get hydrated during this time of the year, when one can easily get a heat stroke (you could hear the sound of the ambulance siren not just once or twice a day, which probably were the ramifications of the heat wave). During nighttime, I would explore Shinjuku area which is known for its varied entertainment fare (arguably the entertainment capital of Tokyo) where some of the notable sights were the robot restaurants and the animal cafes. So during the day I would see other tourist spots like Roppongi Hills (with Mori Tower where you can get a good bird’s eye view of the whole city thru its observation deck as well as thru its sky deck/rooftop/helipad) where I spotted a branch of the popular New York burger resto Shake Shack, Imperial Palace (with its lush parks and gardens), Shibuya (popularly known for its jampacked pedestrian crossing at any given time of the day), Tokyo Skytree (where you can get another good view of the city after dark thru its viewing deck), temples and shrines (where you can write your wishes on an “Ema” and hang it up among the others fronting the statues of the temple gods), and shopping districts.

Sights of Tokyo: cute Doraemons (Roppongi Hills), temple/shrine, lush gardens (Imperial Palace), jampacked pedestrian crossing (Shibuya), towering heights (Tokyo Skytree), and “Ema” (wood tablet where locals write their wishes to the temple gods)

When it comes to shopping, Tokyo is shoppers paradise. They have this so-called “shotengai” which is similar to the grand bazaars of Istanbul or the medinas and souks of Casablanca and Marrakesh where shops line up in maze like fashion. If you are a fan of anime (which I’m not, sorry), then these are the places for you. Some of the popular ones are Nakano Broadway (for vintage watches) and Ameyoko Market (for street food and second hand or hand me downs luxury designer bags). Knock off luxury goods are illegal in Japan, so second hand items are very popular among shoppers who look for good buys. Not sure why there were a lot of those, either the Japanese elites just want to declog their closets to free up some precious space (space is a luxury in Japan) and fill them up with in-season (and I’m speaking fashion) items. Or maybe some fell on hard times that they have to let go and sell or pawn their luxury goods. But if you want a hassle free shopping, I’ve discovered (thanks to my cousin Jean who has been to Japan a few times) Don Quijote (yes, they spell it with a ‘j’ instead of an ‘x’) and Daikokuya, where you can find the same items (and more) from the shotengais all under one roof. Guess what? Both are just stone throw away from my hotel.

Shotengai or shopping havens where you can splurge on second hand designer bags and vintage watches among other good finds

Of course, the food is just to die for. In my short stay in Tokyo, I have appreciated Japanese food probably more than I could imagine. I never thought I would fall in love with the food. I’m not new to Japanese food, but I’ve never been fond of it until I’ve finally had a few in this food connoisseurs delight of a place. There’s the popular Tsukiji Market for street food, but because it was the peak of summer, I tried to avoid food in such places where it can easily get spoiled, particularly the raw ones. So I ended up having my sashimi fix in a neighborhood resto, which offers lunch specials that consist of a bowl of different seafood sashimi with rice and soup. Then there’s the mouth-watering wagyu beef sirloin that sort of melt in the mouth like butter. I had it in a classy teppanyaki resto in Kabuki-cho called Yasaiya Teppanyaki. You have to have it medium rare (as how steaks should be) and just be prepared to fork out at least $80 for a good meal. I had some firsts as well, like the unagi (Japanese eel) where I had what they call ‘hitsumabushi’ or Nagoya style unagi. I also tried this resto that specializes in beef tongue, where I had a combo of beef kalbi, pork loin, another kind of pork, and of course, beef tongue. The beef tongue was chewy, so good thing I had the other meat viands. My ultimate first though was the iconic Ichiran Ramen. Cousin Jean vibered me saying I can’t leave Tokyo without trying Ichiran Ramen. There’s a branch near my hotel so I went. Boy, am I glad I did. Just like the colors of Tokyo, it was muted, tempered, and yet overwhelming to the senses. This food journey was an experience bigger than the trip itself.

My Japanese food journey (clockwise from top left): bowl of seafood sashimi, unagi (japanese eel), combo of beef tongue and other meat viands, seafood tempura, Ichiran ramen, wagyu beef sirloin, and bento of sashimi, tempura, miso soup, and grilled fish. Did I say all are delish?

(Up next: Kyoto)