Travel Buzz

I flew out of Santorini (Greece: Of Myths, Mediterranean Food, and Beaches Part 2) to Athens on a Volotea flight. Good thing about this flight is that it lands in Athen’s international airport where I took my Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul in the same terminal just a few hours apart. Before taking my onward flight, I had lunch at the airport and was just happy to have found Burger King. You know (from the photos I’ve shared with my Greece stories in the 2-part article), I haven’t had fastfood in the 10 nights that I stayed in Greece and I’ve been craving for it so it was the first fastfood that I thought would satisfy my cravings and it actually did. Finished 8 pieces of chicken wings, medium fries, and a large Coke Zero. Since I still have a few hours to kill, I went to Starbucks (my first in this trip) to get a drink and finish the article that I was writing for this blog before heading to the gate 30 minutes ’til boarding time.

Along the Bosphorus river bank after having dinner at Yaka Balik restaurant under the Galata bridge

It was an uneventful flight. When I got to Turkey’s international airport, I was met by a rep of the transport company that my hotel has commissioned to pick me up. I told him that I need to look for an ATM first coz I need local currency. One thing I learned from my travels is that sometimes it’s better to withdraw from local ATM rather than bring dollars and convert it to local currency since the conversion rate is so much better and there is no commission fee (this is particularly true in Madrid where you’ll get ripped off with the conversion rate alone). He advised me to do it in the city as the ATMs in the airport charge commission fee. I was glad he told me that, it gave me a good first impression of Turks, especially after that unfortunate experience in Mykonos. He led me to my van, a modern unit where the seats look like 2 leather sofas facing each other and I had it all for myself. It was a pleasant ride indeed.

My suite room (ODDA Hotel). I love the classic toilet design.

I was dropped in my hotel, ODDA. As I mentioned in my previous article, I have to downgrade my hotel accommodation to cut my losses from that Mykonos scam. I was originally booked at Rixos Pera Istanbul using my Le Club Accor. It’s a high-end hotel at mid-scale price (using my Accor card) so I thought why not. Turkey is not an expensive city unlike the rest of Europe, so having a little luxury for a good price is something that I would normally go for. Unfortunately, I have to give it up and settled for a less classy property in a less desirable address. Don’t get me wrong though, ODDA Hotel is in a good location if you want to be near everything (a few steps away from the main avenues, particularly the popular Istiklal Caddesi, and few minutes to the nearest Metro), but it’s just that it’s in that part of the center where bars abound as well as hole in the wall shops and restos, which give it a dodgy feel especially at night.

Istiklal Caddesi filled with people at any given time of the day and night.

The accommodation, to say the least, is decent. I got a suite (yes, you heard me right). But before anyone questions my judgement especially after getting ripped off in Mykonos, you will be surprised at how much I got that suite room. Let’s just say I got it for less than a 100 euro a night. Quite a good buy, right? Though it’s not as posh as the room I had at St. Regis Abu Dhabi and in dire need of some refurbishments, I liked the extra space (living room, bedroom, separate shower and toilet). It’s a welcome respite from tight spaces typical of European hotel rooms. The only negatives are that the furnitures need some upgrade and the whole place needs a face lift.

Hagia Sofia (exterior and interiors)

Before embarking on this Turkish journey, I already had an idea which touristy sites I would like to see given the limited time that I’ll be in Istanbul. My sister suggested that I see the MillStone Cave Suites at Cappadocia for the hot air balloons but that’s outside of Istanbul and I don’t have enough days to stay there not to mention the travel time to get there. So I’ll reserve that for future trips, which will give me a reason to come back to Turkey. I decided to see only Istanbul for all its glory on a tight budget (after spending a fortune in a tourist trap that was Mykonos). I didn’t do the hop-on-hop-off bus anymore (which I would normally do to acclimatize myself in every new environment I’m in) to save some euros and time. So what I did was to get a loadable Metro card and got myself familiarized with the subway system and stations nearest to the sites I’d like to see. Unlike that of Tokyo, Istanbul’s subway system is quite simple and easy to understand.

Blue Mosque (exterior and interiors)

My first stop was the area where both Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque stand only separated by a park. These two structures define Istanbul both in terms of legacy and grandeur. Both are strategically located and stand apart just with enough space in between for people to stroll and appreciate these ancient beauties. Hagia Sofia is pinkish in appearance, while Blue Mosque is, of course, bluish. Between these two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, in terms of facade, I like the latter better. It is more majestic in presence, like a King with his Queen just a few steps behind. The interiors of both though were underwhelming. Like food, it wasn’t as tasty as it looks. Don’t get me wrong, there were a lot of intricate and meticulous details and undeniable unique aesthetics, which many would say work of art, but I have seen better with less hype. Maybe I was just expecting much (just like with Rome) and that’s always been one of my flaws. Like going to the movies, I would always tend to read the reviews before going in and leave the movie house underwhelmed.

Around the area are ‘hidden’ mini bazaars (didn’t have any idea that there were shops at the bottom of some stairs in the area) and I was stopped on my tracks a few times by friendly Turks inviting me to see their stalls in discrete spots. I’m not sure whether I look like a loaded tourist, where locals would usually come up to me and ask where I’m from and if I’m interested to see the wares they’re selling, from jewelry to precious stones, from carpets to artworks. I don’t think I wear fashionable clothes to have that look (I’m not gunning for that look, believe me). Not sure whether I’d be flattered by the attention, but I’m just a regular guy who likes to travel to see the sights and enjoy the food with shopping furthest from my mind. I had plans to visit the Grand Bazaar anyway, so I’d rather do the shopping there than entertain these guys.

Like Athens or any other ancient city, a visit to Istanbul won’t be complete without seeing her museums. My ticket for Hagia Sofia (which is now a museum) also entitled me to see two other museums: Istanbul Archaeological Museum and the Topkapi Palace Museum (discounted 3 in 1 ticket). The Archaeological Museum was just ok, no amazing or spectacular finds. My takeaways from the visit weren’t any good archaeological finds but the beautiful tiled building outside of the main building and a blackened toenail after tripping on probably ancient rock lying on the grounds of the mini archaeological garden beside the refreshment area. Topkapi Palace Museum, on the other hand, was a different story. The gardens leading to the different buildings inside a huge compound are beautiful. Well maintained and manicured, it gives the place a refreshing vibe that complements whatever awesome finds inside the buildings that house ancient relics and artifacts including what many believed was Moses’ staff. There are other finds which Muslims would consider sacred, that’s why it’s no surprise that the crowd would be mostly Arabs since the Palace is visited for its unique collections with historical and religious significance.

The Milion. See how far Manila was from the ancient zero-marker.

There are two other sites that are worth seeing. One is for free, the other with minimum fee. The former is The Milion, a 4th century A.D. monument, erected as a zero-marker during the Byzantine era used as starting place for measuring distances. What stands now is just the remains of the monument. People would normally pass by it, not realizing the presence of a significant marker. The other one is the Basilica Cistern, a 6th century A.D. underground cistern that can hold 100,000 tons of water. This is the main source of water for the capital of the Byzantine empire. Aside from the spectacular columns (336 per my count, just kidding), the “Sunken Palace” also houses two Medusa heads used as plinths and considered as masterpieces of sculpture art during the Roman period. Myths have it (again with reference to Greek mythology) that Medusa was a beautiful girl (with gorgeous eyes and hair) in love with Perseus, son of Zeus. Athena, who was also in love with Perseus, was so jealous of her that she turned her lustrous hair into snakes and whoever stares at her and meets her gaze will turn into stone. That’s why they put those heads upside down so that people won’t turn into stones (huh?). There’s a puddle where each head rests which now serves like a wishing well/fountain, so I threw in a few coins and made my wishes (hoping all will come true).

Istanbul is also known for its hamams, so to satisfy my curiosity, I tried it. I’ve never been in a steam bath before so this is something new to me. What I had before was a thermal bath in Budapest, where I enjoyed how the underground thermal water (hot spring) felt when you immersed your body in different thermal pools. Hamam is different though, it’s like the modern day wet sauna. It apparently has health benefits, where the most common is to sweat those toxins out of your body and stimulates the body to heal faster. I would have enjoyed the experience if not for those staring eyes that made me uneasy. You know how Arabs eyes are like: big, dark, and deep, that when they stare, it feels like it’s piercing thru your soul. If I were Medusa, the whole room would have been filled with stone statues. Not sure if it’s due to the fact that I was the only Asian inside, but some went beyond staring. After the attendant towel-dried me and wrapped towels around my body and head like a turban, I looked at myself in the mirror and realized that probably some of the stares may have been due to how I look: like a young Persian prince of ancient times, tanned and smooth face, unique in its own way. I left the hamam feeling good and refreshed but also felt unsettled and ‘violated’ with all the unnecessary attention I got.

The two Medusa heads (Basilica Cistern). You’ll probably see some of the coins I threw in.

Of course, the trip should be enjoyed with good food. Well, I ditched the fine dining part (remember I’m on a tight budget, except for one time where I had dinner in this nice restaurant under Galata bridge called Yaka Balik with nice view of the sunset and the Bosphorus River with cruise boats passing by which reminds me of Paris) and instead settled most of the time for turo turo (it’s a Filipino term referring to how one points a finger to cooked dishes as displayed in heating trays on the restaurant counter like those in a cafeteria). Aside from the usual fish, meat, and chicken viands, Istanbul (or the rest of Turkey) is known for its Turkish desserts. I’m not really fond of desserts, but when it comes to Turkish desserts, I would indulge in this guilty pleasure in a heartbeat. There’s just so much variety to choose from: halvas, baklavas, and the popular Turkish delights. One of the oldest shops, Hakki Zade, apparently has been using the same recipe since 1864 and always popular with tourists. You don’t also have to worry eating or shopping late as restos and shops close at 2 in the morning while bars are open with loud band music booming ’til the wee hours of the morning.

Don’t undermine the humble turo-turo. It’s probably the only turo-turo in the world with chandeliers.

Yes, Istanbul is open 24/7, always alive and kicking. Istiklal Street (which is Istanbul’s answer to New York’s 5th Avenue, Sydney’s George Street, Auckland’s Queen’s Street or even Paris’ Champs Elysees) is still bustling with people even at past midnight. The first night I’ve noticed this, I did ask the hotel receptionist if Turks actually sleep. He said in jest that his people only rest when they are already tired from all the merry making. Makes me wonder how they could actually function during the day. Because streets are always filled with people all day and all night long, especially Istiklal (you’ll be amazed at how many people fill this street at any given time of the day or night), litters abound. When there’s a sudden downpour, these streets will be drenched and with those litters in puddles, make the city looks filthy.

The waiter preparing and serving my first testi kebab.

So that’s Istanbul for you. A city with a sleeper hit of a past and a present that never sleeps. It’s dirty (pun intended), filthy, and dodgy, but somehow endearing and charming, like a bad boy that good girls go after. Like Vegas, what happens in Istanbul stays in Istanbul.

Some of the shops that offer Turkish desserts