Italy: How Thou I Love Thee? (Let Me Count The Ways) – Part 1 of 2

Travel and Positivity Buzz

Rome, Italy

I’ll be going to Italy again in spring so I thought why don’t I write something about my past trips to this beautiful country that I consider my favorite. It would be my 3rd trip and this time, with a purpose. Since the start of the year, I’ve been feeling down. I don’t know exactly what it is. Maybe because most days I was under the weather, but it’s not just that. It’s not also the occasional bad days (who hasn’t?). I was able to find some answers when I’ve finally found a copy of my favorite annual feng shui book. It’s the Fortune and Feng Shui by Lillian and Jennifer Too (I used to buy the one authored by Master Joseph Chau Kam Shing, but since it’s hard to find in local bookstores, I discovered the one by the Toos and both feng shui masters share similar forecasting skills and writing styles). Unlike Filipino feng shui masters who would come out with very commercial versions (you need to have this and that to activate your luck which you can buy from our stores) and tend to come off as negative rather than turning negative into positive, their Malaysian and Chinese counterparts would focus more on what’s in store for the year so that one can be prepared. It’s not that it’s going to happen, but more of being prepared when it happens.

Colosseo, Rome

So my feng shui confirmed what I thought and felt all along. My spirit essence is weak. Though I have a good life force, what I was feeling these past few days is a result of what the book says as “while on the surface you come across self-assured and strong, inside, you have pockets of uncertainty about your abilities.” In other words, lack of self-confidence. The book continues: “Perhaps something happened early in the year that shook this confidence – a betrayal, a disappointment, or even a downright bad turn of events that upsets your sense of stability. Whatever it is, dig in your heels and stay strong.” Very true indeed. Something happened in the workplace that shook me a bit, that even with a strong and stable core, it created a void and emptiness inside.

St. Angelo Castle and Bridge (Rome)

What the book suggest is to travel more this year. That’s what I actually intend to do. So my first order of the year was to book a flight to my favorite country. The purpose is to go on a pilgrimage. The last time I did that was on the 100th year anniversary of the apparition of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Fatima, Portugal in 2017 (which I wrote about in my earlier article “Dear Mama Mary”). It’s been almost 3 years since then. This year, I intend to go back to Assisi, the place where the tombs of two of my favorite saints (St. Francis and St. Claire) are enshrined. The first time I was there (almost 7 years ago), it was more of a destiny fulfilled. This time, it is to regain my good spirits. What better way to fill that void and emptiness than feeding one’s spirituality.

Arch of Constantine and Palatine Hill (Rome)

So I’m going on a short retreat, a spiritual journey. But before that, let me share my past trips to Italy. My first time was with my folks, who were also with me in Assisi. We flew to Rome from Manila and stayed there for a week (including the side trip to Assisi). That was the time when Air China was offering business class seats for $999 (before taxes and surcharges) which I got during the annual travel expo. Preparing for that trip wasn’t a walk in the park. First was getting my folks the visas. I hate to admit it, I had to tap family connections for that (I’m unapologetic though, knowing that I did it for my folks and not for myself). I was particularly concerned for my Dad, since it would be his first travel abroad (my Mom has a US visa and has traveled a few times before). Unlike me who is a wanderlust, my Dad is the exact opposite. He doesn’t really like leaving home. The last time he moved was when he left his hometown to marry my Mom. He never went back. Not that he dislike traveling, he just like the stability of being at home (that’s probably where I got my sense of stability). Second, because of their advance age, it was hard to find an insurance company that can cover their travel insurance. I have to shop from different travel agencies for the best coverage (only a few insurance companies cover senior citizens) and it doesn’t come cheap. So I did all these while still being very effective at work. I should get an award for being very good at multi-tasking.

Rome and Vatican City

Vatican City

In Rome, we stayed at Mercure Roma Piazza Bologna using my Accor card. Odd thing happened upon check-in. I thought the rate published online (member’s rate) is the price of the room regardless of occupants. So while booking the room for my folks, I may have inadvertently placed 1 occupant (since I’m used to just booking for myself). I was told that the price is different if the room is occupied by 2 persons. Tired and weary from the long flight, I didn’t argue anymore and paid the extra surcharge for their room. I thought this can only be true in Italy. So off we went to our separate rooms to get that much needed rest from jetlag (especially for me who did all the lifting and dragging of our luggages).

St. Peter’s Basilica and Square

The following day, I could sense during breakfast that Dad was excited to go sightseeing. Our first stop was St. Peter’s Basilica and Square in the Vatican City. In pictures and on TV, it seems grand and humongous in scale. While there, it wasn’t really, visually. That’s the first of many feelings of being underwhelmed that I went thru while in Rome. Maybe I have put my expectations of Rome at such unreasonably high levels that I may have overlooked how beautiful and right-sized it was. As they say, TV adds ten pounds to a person on it, so maybe it made an average sized basilica and square look like large structural wonder on a massive square. When we arrived, the square and the surrounding areas were packed mostly by bikers. Initially, I thought we were in the wrong place (the underwhelming scale and the crowd of leather attired bikers made us wonder if we were in the right place). It was actually the canonization of the patron saint of bikers (if I remember it right) with Pope Francis leading the rites. We stayed a while in the vicinity and after the rites have concluded and the crowd started to disperse, we made our way to the square. A few photo ops later, my Mom asked “So where is St. Peter’s Square?” I said, “Mom, you’re standing right there.” She laughed, but still had that confused look, probably still wondering whether we are in the right place (she later said that the square looks larger on TV). Aside from the usual tourist crowd that was bustling in the square, there were also robe and rosary beads attired beggars doing their thing. I saw Mom giving alms to every beggar that approaches her that soon started to build up around her. She was giving at least one euro coin each and I was petrified. I said “Mom, why are you wasting money on alms?” Giving me that quizzical look, she retorted by saying that we should give something because they look holy. Huh? (place face palm emoji here) Rather than start an argument, I let her be, until she ran out of coins. A few visits to the square later, she probably realized that not only she’s giving some 60 pesos or more worth of alms to each beggar (which you can already buy a McDo Happy Meal in the Philippines), but that they are no different from street beggars at home, most likely ran by a syndicate. I let out a sigh of relief when she started saying no even if they look “holy”.

Meet my folks, the fashion appropriate Mr. & Mrs Smith (kidding). Thank you for the good genes (and not so much for the bad).

I was able to secure skip-the-line tickets for me and my folks and we were ushered directly to a private door of the basilica. Inside, it was beautiful. Just like every other church, cathedral, or basilica in Rome, the interiors are adorned with murals, intricate sculpting, and mosaic windows. Probably overwhelmed with the beauty and sacredness of the place, I saw Dad in tears. It was my first time to see him cry. Both my parents are devout Catholics, so I would understand if he’s a bit upset because of the impact of being at the center of Catholicism. So I asked “Dad, why are you crying?” He replied “Indi ko ma imagine na makalab-ot ako diri” (I never imagined that I could be here). Those were definitely tears of joy. I’m not sure whether it’s because he just experienced for the first time the joy of travel, being in a sea of tourists from around the world, or that in the deepest recesses of his mind he had always wanted to see this place every time he sees it on TV only that he didn’t have the opportunity. So having seen him that happy was priceless.

The Colosseo Arena (Rome)

We went to see other religious spots as well. Not very far from the basilica and square is the Sistine Chapel, famous for the art work that Michelangelo did on its ceiling. Outside of Vatican, we saw a lot of chapels, churches, and cathedrals (as in a lot). Two of my favorites are St. John Cathedral (Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano) and Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels (Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri). I like the former because to me, it has the most beautiful interiors. It’s like being in a museum or a palace filled with works of art. The latter was special to me, coz when I entered the place, there was this whiff of cold air that welcomed me, something that I’ve never felt before, like a soul or spirit that has been waiting for my arrival. Maybe my guardian angel’s way of telling me that I’m in a holy place, a very good place. I’ve never felt so peaceful and calm and blessed.

(Left) Dining al fresco; (Right) Trevi Fountain

Of course we didn’t miss the must-see tourist spots. There’s the imposing and very popular Colosseum. The ruined facade is as magnificent as the concrete arena. I’m just awed with everything inside and outside of this ancient ruin. Not to be missed is the Trevi fountain (where you throw in a coin and make a wish), where one of my wishes was to return someday, and looks like it’s going to happen. Other notable spots are the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. Another spot, the Spanish Steps, is attractive not so much for the steps but for the dining options around the area (we’ve found some good restos around Vatican and Trevi fountain as well). One thing that I love about Italy is the food. Anything Italian is just delicious. From pasta to pizza to gelato, My Dad’s eyes would light up every time he hears gelato, like a kid in a toy store (though my Mom would always remind him of his sugar levels). We tried different restos and dishes that there were times that I would crave for fastfood because we ate Italian all the time, but I know for a fact that my folks are not really fond of junk food. Maybe that’s the reason why they were able to endure all the walking, particularly with my Dad who had a mild stroke a couple of years earlier and has mobility concerns since then. It just amazed me how much walking he did without any untoward incident. Maybe the Italian or Mediterranean diet did wonders for him.

Assisi

Approaching Assisi (Italy)

When I was younger, I dream of visiting Assisi. I don’t know why and why I’m fascinated with the place. All I know was that it’s the birthplace of St. Francis and St. Claire, two of the saints I would pray to especially in times of need. Maybe it’s some kind of a religious or spiritual calling, but the two have been good to me that both have been my go-to when I pray for divine intervention. So I made sure that I had Assisi in our itinerary in my first trip to Italy. I have to face that calling. I have to fulfill that destiny.

Assisi, Italy

I booked a chauffeur driven limo to take us to and around Assisi. Though there were cheaper options, I cannot put my folks on a train or in a tour bus from Rome. The former would be grueling for them, the latter would deprive us of the time to reflect and savor the place. The driver picked us up from the hotel. Mom and Dad were already waiting in the lobby when he arrived and as usual I was running fashionably late. While waiting for me in the car, Mom struck a conversation with him and like any typical Filipino mom, she shared that I’m an accomplished finance professional back home. So the driver’s initial impression was that he’ll be meeting an older, respectable, gentleman. When he saw me come out of the hotel, wearing a collared shirt and shorts and got into the car, he was surprised. He said I looked like a 28 year old yuppie (well, he didn’t exactly say yuppie, but you know what I mean). So after all the pleasantries, he took us to a 2 hour drive to Assisi.

St. Francis Basilica (Assisi)

While approaching Assisi, I can see this old city perched on a hill. I know then why I was drawn to the place. It looks and feels familiar, like I have been there before. You may call it deja vu, but I can’t shake off that feeling that maybe I have lived there before, in my past life. Or maybe it’s just faith that’s messing up with my mind. Whatever it was, it can’t be denied that the place is beautiful. When we arrived, we could already feel the warmth, tranquility, and serenity and the gentle breeze of fresh air that welcomed us. In spite of its old charm, the feeling was refreshing.

St. Francis Basilica facade (perched on top of a hill)

So I finally paid my respect and homage to the tombs of St. Francis and St. Claire enshrined in their respective basilicas. St. Claire’s remains are still intact, a miracle by itself. Mom thought it was a statue, but I have to explain to her that St. Claire’s body hasn’t really decomposed over the centuries and just preserved by wax.

Dad checking out his sandwich while Mom chatting with the driver

Over lunch, the topic of conversation was my youthful looks and truffles (not the chocolate but the garnish). The driver can’t get over the fact that I was not in my 20’s anymore. So I told him that he’s just sweet talking me, but to prove that he’s not, he called the waitress and asked her how old does she think I was. She said I look late 20’s. Not satisfied, he called another resto staff. She said I look like a 21 year old lad. Flattered with all the compliments (who wouldn’t?), I shifted the subject to truffles, since most of the dishes we ordered were garnished with the same and I was very curious about it. Apparently, truffles are harvested by hand underground, like root crops, and it’s not something that can be grown or cultivated like in a garden or farm. Since it’s very organic and rare, it’s very expensive. But most Italian dishes, particularly pastas and meats are garnished with it, as it seems to elevate flavors and aromas. If you have tried truffle pasta, you’ll surely know what I mean.

St. Claire Basilica (Assisi)

My first trip to Italy left a good and lasting impression on me. It is first and foremost a family destination. The memories that I had with Mom and Dad in this country I will cherish forever, knowing that I’ve spent and witnessed some priceless moments with them. Second, this is the mecca of Catholic faith, belief, and spirituality. With plenty of sacred grounds to cover, this is a good place to embark on a spiritual journey, to find oneself in times when one is feeling at the crossroads of life. Third, we love the food as much as Italians do and it’s not just because of the flavors and aromas but the health benefits of Mediterranean diet. Fourth, the ancient charm and abundance of ruins and artifacts are lessons of humanity that today and future generations can learn from. I love Italy not because of its beauty, but because the country feeds the mind, the body, and the soul.

Up next: Naples, Pompeii, Amalfi Coast, and Capri

Greece: Of Myths, Mediterranean Food, and Beaches – Part 1 of 2

Travel Buzz

So I finally decided to go to Greece after years of having it in my bucket list. Greece has always been an exciting destination for me but having read some negative feedback particularly on Athens, that eagerness to see this glorious country has taken a back seat for a while until last April when Oman Air’s maiden flight to Athens for June was on promo. I thought that was the sign to pack up my bags and go on a Greek adventure.

Athens

Unlike most of my trips, this one went not without any hiccups and misfortunes. When I arrived in Athens International Airport in the evening, I was met by my driver Venediktod from Welcome Pickups which was a good decision on my part to book a hassle-free airport transfer. The price did not differ much if I have taken a cab from the airport so I decided to try this transport company and I’m just glad I did. I was ushered in a Benz and the whole trip to the city was very pleasant (spacious leather seats with welcome bottled water) until I got to my hotel (Vitruvius Smart Hotel & Spa). Tired and weary from a 15-hour flight (not to mention more than 2 hours layover in Muscat and 3 hours at Manila airport), I was told that they have overbooked for that night and cannot give me any room. Something like this I would dread every time I travel (though this is the first time that it happened to me), I told them assertively that it’s their problem (not mine) and they have to fix it. So long story short, they looked for available hotels in the area and when they found one, they booked me a cab and told me that everything has been arranged for and I don’t need to pay for the night in that hotel and can return the next day for the rest of my booking.

Essentially I lost almost a day since I could only check in the next day around 2PM and I don’t want to go around the city without settling first in my new room. So while waiting, I wrote one of my articles (in this blog) in a Chinese restaurant across the hotel with very poor Chinese food (I know Chinese since it’s one of my faves and when I say it’s poor, it is…really). When I finally was able to check in, I had some minor problems with the room which are only worth mentioning in Tripadvisor (this blog has a positivity theme after all). You may be wondering why I didn’t use my Le Club Accor (see Travel In Style Part 2) in this leg of the trip. Well, the only Accor hotel in the area (Novotel Athenes) is apparently in a dodgy part of Athens where I’ve read some negative reviews and a bit far from the touristy sites.

Acropolis Hill (imagine climbing up on a dusty, windy, and humid day under the scorching summer heat)

So the early negative feedback that I’ve read about Athens is actually true. Athens is dirty. Litters and graffiti are all over the place. It actually reminds me of Naples. But just like Naples, old vibe, overwhelming character, and remnants of her glorious past overpower whatever cleanliness and safety issues she may currently have. This is more prevalent in Acropolis which is essentially the nerve center and melting pot of the city. Restaurants and shops abound at the foot of the hill and it would take a good hike up to reach the popular Parthenon. On the way up, I met a senior Filipino couple from the US. Athens is their dream destination and their dream finally came true. The wife’s name is Venus, so I told her that maybe it is really her destiny to be finally here. Athena and Venus though were not your definition of women sticking together or having each other’s back, but oh well, that was then and this is now. On the same trail, I overheard a young tourist saying “is there like an elevator or something?” You could probably hear chuckles at the back of my head, but I don’t blame her given the dusty, windy, and humid weather which actually surprised me this time of the year when southern Europe should be cool and airy. Sweaty and tired, the climb was all worth it upon reaching the apex and seeing the Parthenon and the other monuments. Just as I have envisioned it to be.

Parthenon (that’s my conscience walking away for not listening lol)

I decided to get a drink (my, was I super thirsty) in one of the restos lining up the foot of the hill after finally deciding that I had already enough of Acropolis Hills. After downing 2 bottles of Coke Zero in a glass full of ice, I started to walk towards the shops and to see what else is there in the area. A short, stocky guy stopped me on my tracks (this always happens to me, I don’t know why…some encounters pleasant, others creepy) and asked me where I’m from. As always, I’m proud to represent my country every time I travel, so I said “From the Philippines” with perfect enunciation. Every time I do that, I would get that look (like “I’ve never met someone like you from that country” or maybe “where’s that?”) and then compliments that I speak good English. With this guy though, he took it further (and this is not the first time that someone asked the same question) “Do you live there or are you based somewhere else?” So I said it with pride that I live and work in the Philippines (born and raised, true blue Filipino). So he introduced himself as the owner of one of the restos in the area and told me that he has a relative in the Philippines who owns a Greek resto (which I forgot the name). He also wants to invite me to his resto in the evening as there will be music and dancing and lots of young people expected to be there. If only he knows how old I am, but I was flattered by the invite and for being mistaken as part of that generation. I told him I already have made plans for the evening but I will try to see if I could drop by. I didn’t. I was just being polite.

The great philosopher Aristotle, one of Greece’s greatest gifts to mankind. He paved the way for explorers of the past and travelers of modern times when he first declared that the world is not flat (National Archaeological Museum)

A visit to Athens won’t be complete without checking out its museums. I am fond of museums (particularly those in Europe, that’s why I keep coming back) as it’s the only place that can take you back in time. The way of life then are depicted in most artifacts, potteries, and archaeological finds. I am thus excited to visit her museums, being an ancient city with very rich history. I was quite underwhelmed though when I have finally been to two of her museums. The collections in both Acropolis Museum and National Archaeological Museum were not as vast as those in NY Met, Prague Palace, or even Budapest Museum. But despite this initial disappointment (or maybe I was just expecting too much), what makes these museums different is its reference to Greek mythology. I have always been fascinated with Greek and Roman mythologies (you may be asking if there is any difference or similarity between the two, well, one good example is Venus and Aphrodite, where the former is Roman while the latter is Greek, both referring to the same Goddess of Love), of Greek and Roman gods and demigods, so any references to it make an interesting find. Apparently, there was this epic battle between Athena (Goddess of War and Wisdom) and Poseidon (God of the Sea) to win over the protection of the Athenian territory. Athena offered the Greeks the olive tree while Poseidon offered salt water. Guess who won? Of course, hands down Athena (yeah, go girl!). Greece won’t be Greece if not for the olive tree.

Epic battle of Athena (Goddess of War and Wisdom) and Poseidon (God of the Sea) which the Wonder Woman of ancient times won (Acropolis Museum)

Olive tree, like the coconut tree of the Philippines, is Greece’s tree of life. Mediterranean food and diet are mainly consist of the olive fruit, oil, and leaves. I read somewhere that this region has some of the lowest incidents of cardiovascular diseases and can be attributed to their olive staple and the benefits derived from it. So it is no surprise to see olive oil in every dining table and sometimes with complimentary olive fruits. Even before leaving for this trip, I already had a good appreciation of Mediterranean food (one of our go-to restos in Manila is Cyma, one of the few good Greek restos in the metro). I am also fond of grilled meats (I don’t eat vegetables), and it is no wonder that even if the Greeks love their meats, that fondness does not develop into long term debilitating diseases. I guess that’s what make Greeks look healthy in every way (luscious hair, clear skin, active even in advanced age, etc.). They utilize the tree of life (and probably the tree of youth) not only for food but for different health and beauty applications. So the beauty of Greece does not only lie on its past but also in its present thru its beautiful people. I guess Athenians were not wrong in building the Parthenon in honor of Athena. She gave them the gift of life.

Some of the meals I had in Athens. From left, baby veal steak, pasta with prawns, grilled “boughiourdi” shrimp (spicy hot tomato sauce with grated feta cheese), and baked lamb (in case you’re wondering, all are delish!)

(Up Next: Mykonos and Santorini)