Saigon: Manila on Bikes

Travel Buzz

Saigon, Vietnam

Vietnam marks a milestone in my travel life. It is the 30th country that I have visited (8th in Asia) and Saigon (now known as Ho Chi Minh City) is the nth city/place that I have been to (I’ve lost count of all the cities, towns, and places that I have seen in all 5 continents that I have set foot on). Vietnam has always been in my radar, but just like Japan, I have no explanation as to why it took me this long to finally book a flight and visit one of its cities. Maybe the proximity to my country made me think that it’s very accessible that I can visit it anytime I want (hence I’ve prioritized travelling to countries that are farther and require plenty of planning and preparation).

Bikes everywhere!

I decided to visit Vietnam last December when I came across an online article that puts the said country in its top ten countries to visit. I’ve been to 7 out of 10 in the list (the other 3 were Iceland, Vietnam, and a South American country I forgot), so I thought why not squeeze in Vietnam in my travel itinerary for the Christmas holidays so that I could claim bragging rights that I have been to 8 out of 10. I have already booked a Thai Airways return flight to Bangkok from Manila using my Krisflyer miles (see my previous article “A Tale of Two Pattayas”) so I thought maybe I could book a return flight to Saigon from Bangkok and just take my return flight to Bangkok hours before my return flight to Manila (so that I don’t need to spend an extra night in Bangkok and will save me airport transfers). I chose Thai Airways as well for the Saigon leg, so that I can have my check-in luggage sent directly to Manila on my return flight (unlike if I took a different airline where I have to pass thru Bangkok’s immigration upon arrival, claim my checked-in luggage from the carousel, and check in at the departure area, and pass thru the immigration again). Though my Thai Airways return fare to Saigon was not cheap (compared to regional budget airlines), I thought it was a hassle free travel and was happy with my decision.

Pullman Saigon Centre

Saigon is not really unfamiliar to me. The name of this place has been planted in the consciousness of Filipinos in the late 80s when the creators of the hit West End and Broadway musical “Miss Saigon” came to Manila to hold auditions for roles in the production including the lead role of Kim, the main and tragic character and center of the story. After a worldwide search for Kim (you can check out the documentary in YouTube), they have finally found not one but two potential Kims in Manila (Grammy nominated artist Lea Salonga, now popularly known as the singing voice of Princess Jasmine in the song “A Whole New World” in Disney’s animated movie “Aladdin” and Monique Wilson), where Lea was chosen for the said role (and later claimed a Tony award for Best Actress, probably the first Asian to win such award) and Monique as her understudy. There were other Filipinos who got secondary roles, so it ended up with mostly Filipino cast. If I were a bit older and already living in Manila then, I would have auditioned as well. Yes, I can sing and act, and my musical credentials include auditioning and being cast for a role in a local production of “Joseph, The Dreamer” that ran for 6 nights with full house each night (so I can say it was a hit musical production, from local perspective, which I remember I wasn’t paid because the proceeds went to charity, and I just did it for the love of the arts and philanthrophy) and was a member of my high school choir that won the competition to represent the region in the National Music Competition for Young Artists (NAMCYA). Years later, my sister, brother-in-law, and I were able to catch Miss Saigon at West End during its revival run in London (the lead male character, The Engineer, which role was originated by Oscar nominated actor Jonathan Pryce, was reprised by a Filipino theater actor named Jon Jon Briones in this production, who was splendid by the way in the said role). So going back to Saigon, it also helped that this city is at the center of the Vietnam War as presented in our history books (as well as in the musical), so I thought this is one place rich in history as well as in culture.

My upgraded room (Pullman Saigon Centre)

I booked a room at Pullman Saigon Centre using my Accor card. Though a high-end hotel, it wasn’t really pricey (Saigon is not an expensive city) so I thought why not enjoy a little luxury for a mid-scale hotel price. I was also surprised that my reserved room got upgraded. They gave me not only a bigger room (looks like a junior suite), but a corner room that has a 180 degree view (with floor to ceiling windows, it really gave me a very nice view of the city from my room). Check in was a breeze, and as usual got a free drink voucher (one of the perks of being an Accor member) which I availed at the Rooftop Bar on Christmas eve, enjoying my favorite cocktail for free. The location is also good, where it is just a few minutes walk to the Walking Street, and a few minutes ride to various places of interest.

Saigon skyline at night

What strikes me about Saigon is that it looks and feels like Manila. Some areas remind me of Quiapo, Ermita, and Sampaloc (I live in Makati City, the central business district, and I don’t go and see places outside of Makati anymore). It felt like I never left home. The resemblance is uncanny: hole in the wall business establishments, construction boom, gentle and solicitous people, a mix of the old and the new. Maybe I was in the wrong side of the city, but the abundance of French colonial heritage that I was looking for was not there (or is it in Hanoi?). What I did see a lot though were motorcycles!

Ben Thanh Market

But before I get started on the bikes, I did see some of her tourist spots. First stop was Ben Thanh Market, apparently one of the must-see in Saigon. This one reminds me of the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul. Housed in a covered building, rows and rows of stalls selling all kinds of stuff (food, clothing, souvenirs, designer knock offs, coffee beans, etc.) that to a certain saturation point, it starts to feel like a monotony where you see the same stuff all over again (unlike Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar where there is so much variety like gold, jewelry, spices, carpets, art works, etc.). One thing to take note though is that even for a jaded traveler and bargain hunter and expert haggler, sometimes you can still get fooled by sweet talk and sad stories. In my case, this happened when I was eyeing a souvenir item where the seller was telling me about her day (that she hasn’t sold an item yet and has nothing to bring home to her family) and she’s selling the said souvenir at a discounted price. Though I was able to haggle for a much lower price, I realized a day later (after seeing the same item in another location) that I got ripped off. The price is lower in that location compared to what I thought was already a good price (so looks like she upped her retail price by 3x to make her discounted and the final price look like a good buy). Though travelers don’t have the luxury of time to shop for prices for a simple souvenir item, it is still worth being on your guard for vendors who use sad stories as sales talk and try to strike a chord or pull at heartstrings as sales strategy. I may be too naive to know that (in spite of all my travel and life experiences), being an empathic and generous person, but I know that I am still a work-in-progress, and have learned to quickly move on from the feeling of being a victim and just let karma takes its course.

Notre Dame Cathedral (Saigon)

Next stop was Notre Dame Cathedral. Though I wasn’t expecting it to be grand, but still left me underwhelmed. I’ve seen her sister in Paris (before it got razed by fire last year), and she doesn’t come close in terms of beauty, character, and intricateness. Her European sister was very gothic, both exteriors and interiors, where you would even feel the eeriness inside (that’s how goth it was) while hers looks more like Spanish (like the cathedrals in my country) than French heritage. No one was allowed to go inside, so I cannot describe how it is or what’s in it, The gardens outside though are nice, which remind me of the gardens in between Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.

A tale of two cathedrals: (left) Notre Dame Cathedral Saigon; (right) Notre Dame Cathedral Paris

Right across the cathedral is the old postal office building where the main attraction is the facade of the building. Nothing spectacular, just another French architectural heritage for you to admire. Inside, it is now full of stalls and kiosks selling all kinds of stuff (like a smaller version of Ben Thanh Market and this is where I found that same souvenir item at a lower price). Another tourist spot is the Independence Palace, which is on the other side of the large park across the cathedral. The architecture is of modern design (like that of the 70s/80s) but I didn’t check out what’s inside (there’s an entrance fee and I wasn’t really in the mood to be reminded of how dreadful wars are). Around the area are nice cafes and restaurants to hang out (particularly on the sides of the large park) and her two biggest malls (Vincom Center and Saigon Centre) are just a few minutes walk away.

Old Central Post Office (Saigon)

You can actually see all these in one day by just walking. You can start from Ben Thanh Market, then walk towards Saigon Center. From there, you can walk to the Independence Palace. You can take a quick detour to Vincom Center, then back to the Palace and have a leisurely walk across the park to get to both Notre Dame Cathedral and the old postal office. So you think that if I’ve known better, I would do all these in one day by walking? Hell no! This is where I get started on the bikes.

Independence Palace (Saigon)

Simply put, there are just too many bikes. They take up every iota of space available including the sidewalks. The worst part is that no one seems to follow road courtesy. I’m not even sure if there are any road safety regulations. In other words, there is just no discipline. You try to cross the street when the pedestrian green light is on, yet you’ll still be cut off by bikes. Some are even counter flowing. The sidewalks are different battlefields (or more like minefields). Here, there are no road lanes and traffic lights (it’s a sidewalk for Pete’s sake) so in their minds, it’s free for all. No rules. Everything’s fair game. I love to walk while exploring a new place, but I’ve never been so scared walking in all my travels.

Walking Street (Saigon). Even this street is not spared by bikes (right).

No wonder I don’t see many locals walking (it’s normally just tourists you see walking). Every local seems to own a bike. Saigon is a good place to walk, but because of the sheer number of bikes on the road, for me it’s one of the most dangerous places for walking. If you dare to walk, you need to further expand your peripheral vision (more than 180 degrees if possible). Coz you’ll know exactly what will hit you. Even the so-called Walking Street is not spared. Unlike its namesake in Pattaya, half of the stretch here is still used by bikes. So it’s pretty ironic that it’s called “walking” street, when you won’t expect that it’s gonna be bike free (as ironic as side “walk”).

Dining at two of my fave restos in Saigon: Dim Tu Tac & Crystal Jade Kitchen (Saigon Centre)

So how did I get by while I was there? I took the Grab (Southeast Asia’s version of Uber) most of the time. It’s not expensive (normally a dollar from my hotel to Saigon Centre during off peaks). I would take Grab even for short distances (which I would normally walk under different circumstances). I would rather pay for a ride than risk walking. That’s how much I value my life.

Would I go back to Saigon? Nah. Probably not. It’s Manila, only on bikes! I just hope Manila doesn’t evolve into another Saigon. A daunting prospect that actually gives me the chills.

Enjoying the rooftop view with my fave cocktail (Rooftop Bar, Pullman Saigon Centre)

Istanbul: The Ancient City That Never Sleeps

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I flew out of Santorini (Greece: Of Myths, Mediterranean Food, and Beaches Part 2) to Athens on a Volotea flight. Good thing about this flight is that it lands in Athen’s international airport where I took my Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul in the same terminal just a few hours apart. Before taking my onward flight, I had lunch at the airport and was just happy to have found Burger King. You know (from the photos I’ve shared with my Greece stories in the 2-part article), I haven’t had fastfood in the 10 nights that I stayed in Greece and I’ve been craving for it so it was the first fastfood that I thought would satisfy my cravings and it actually did. Finished 8 pieces of chicken wings, medium fries, and a large Coke Zero. Since I still have a few hours to kill, I went to Starbucks (my first in this trip) to get a drink and finish the article that I was writing for this blog before heading to the gate 30 minutes ’til boarding time.

Along the Bosphorus river bank after having dinner at Yaka Balik restaurant under the Galata bridge

It was an uneventful flight. When I got to Turkey’s international airport, I was met by a rep of the transport company that my hotel has commissioned to pick me up. I told him that I need to look for an ATM first coz I need local currency. One thing I learned from my travels is that sometimes it’s better to withdraw from local ATM rather than bring dollars and convert it to local currency since the conversion rate is so much better and there is no commission fee (this is particularly true in Madrid where you’ll get ripped off with the conversion rate alone). He advised me to do it in the city as the ATMs in the airport charge commission fee. I was glad he told me that, it gave me a good first impression of Turks, especially after that unfortunate experience in Mykonos. He led me to my van, a modern unit where the seats look like 2 leather sofas facing each other and I had it all for myself. It was a pleasant ride indeed.

My suite room (ODDA Hotel). I love the classic toilet design.

I was dropped in my hotel, ODDA. As I mentioned in my previous article, I have to downgrade my hotel accommodation to cut my losses from that Mykonos scam. I was originally booked at Rixos Pera Istanbul using my Le Club Accor. It’s a high-end hotel at mid-scale price (using my Accor card) so I thought why not. Turkey is not an expensive city unlike the rest of Europe, so having a little luxury for a good price is something that I would normally go for. Unfortunately, I have to give it up and settled for a less classy property in a less desirable address. Don’t get me wrong though, ODDA Hotel is in a good location if you want to be near everything (a few steps away from the main avenues, particularly the popular Istiklal Caddesi, and few minutes to the nearest Metro), but it’s just that it’s in that part of the center where bars abound as well as hole in the wall shops and restos, which give it a dodgy feel especially at night.

Istiklal Caddesi filled with people at any given time of the day and night.

The accommodation, to say the least, is decent. I got a suite (yes, you heard me right). But before anyone questions my judgement especially after getting ripped off in Mykonos, you will be surprised at how much I got that suite room. Let’s just say I got it for less than a 100 euro a night. Quite a good buy, right? Though it’s not as posh as the room I had at St. Regis Abu Dhabi and in dire need of some refurbishments, I liked the extra space (living room, bedroom, separate shower and toilet). It’s a welcome respite from tight spaces typical of European hotel rooms. The only negatives are that the furnitures need some upgrade and the whole place needs a face lift.

Hagia Sofia (exterior and interiors)

Before embarking on this Turkish journey, I already had an idea which touristy sites I would like to see given the limited time that I’ll be in Istanbul. My sister suggested that I see the MillStone Cave Suites at Cappadocia for the hot air balloons but that’s outside of Istanbul and I don’t have enough days to stay there not to mention the travel time to get there. So I’ll reserve that for future trips, which will give me a reason to come back to Turkey. I decided to see only Istanbul for all its glory on a tight budget (after spending a fortune in a tourist trap that was Mykonos). I didn’t do the hop-on-hop-off bus anymore (which I would normally do to acclimatize myself in every new environment I’m in) to save some euros and time. So what I did was to get a loadable Metro card and got myself familiarized with the subway system and stations nearest to the sites I’d like to see. Unlike that of Tokyo, Istanbul’s subway system is quite simple and easy to understand.

Blue Mosque (exterior and interiors)

My first stop was the area where both Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque stand only separated by a park. These two structures define Istanbul both in terms of legacy and grandeur. Both are strategically located and stand apart just with enough space in between for people to stroll and appreciate these ancient beauties. Hagia Sofia is pinkish in appearance, while Blue Mosque is, of course, bluish. Between these two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, in terms of facade, I like the latter better. It is more majestic in presence, like a King with his Queen just a few steps behind. The interiors of both though were underwhelming. Like food, it wasn’t as tasty as it looks. Don’t get me wrong, there were a lot of intricate and meticulous details and undeniable unique aesthetics, which many would say work of art, but I have seen better with less hype. Maybe I was just expecting much (just like with Rome) and that’s always been one of my flaws. Like going to the movies, I would always tend to read the reviews before going in and leave the movie house underwhelmed.

*Grand Bazaar. Bought souvenir items, local soaps, and a carpet.*

Around the area are ‘hidden’ mini bazaars (didn’t have any idea that there were shops at the bottom of some stairs in the area) and I was stopped on my tracks a few times by friendly Turks inviting me to see their stalls in discrete spots. I’m not sure whether I look like a loaded tourist, where locals would usually come up to me and ask where I’m from and if I’m interested to see the wares they’re selling, from jewelry to precious stones, from carpets to artworks. I don’t think I wear fashionable clothes to have that look (I’m not gunning for that look, believe me). Not sure whether I’d be flattered by the attention, but I’m just a regular guy who likes to travel to see the sights and enjoy the food with shopping furthest from my mind. I had plans to visit the Grand Bazaar anyway, so I’d rather do the shopping there than entertain these guys.

Like Athens or any other ancient city, a visit to Istanbul won’t be complete without seeing her museums. My ticket for Hagia Sofia (which is now a museum) also entitled me to see two other museums: Istanbul Archaeological Museum and the Topkapi Palace Museum (discounted 3 in 1 ticket). The Archaeological Museum was just ok, no amazing or spectacular finds. My takeaways from the visit weren’t any good archaeological finds but the beautiful tiled building outside of the main building and a blackened toenail after tripping on probably ancient rock lying on the grounds of the mini archaeological garden beside the refreshment area. Topkapi Palace Museum, on the other hand, was a different story. The gardens leading to the different buildings inside a huge compound are beautiful. Well maintained and manicured, it gives the place a refreshing vibe that complements whatever awesome finds inside the buildings that house ancient relics and artifacts including what many believed was Moses’ staff. There are other finds which Muslims would consider sacred, that’s why it’s no surprise that the crowd would be mostly Arabs since the Palace is visited for its unique collections with historical and religious significance.

The Milion. See how far Manila was from the ancient zero-marker.

There are two other sites that are worth seeing. One is for free, the other with minimum fee. The former is The Milion, a 4th century A.D. monument, erected as a zero-marker during the Byzantine era used as starting place for measuring distances. What stands now is just the remains of the monument. People would normally pass by it, not realizing the presence of a significant marker. The other one is the Basilica Cistern, a 6th century A.D. underground cistern that can hold 100,000 tons of water. This is the main source of water for the capital of the Byzantine empire. Aside from the spectacular columns (336 per my count, just kidding), the “Sunken Palace” also houses two Medusa heads used as plinths and considered as masterpieces of sculpture art during the Roman period. Myths have it (again with reference to Greek mythology) that Medusa was a beautiful girl (with gorgeous eyes and hair) in love with Perseus, son of Zeus. Athena, who was also in love with Perseus, was so jealous of her that she turned her lustrous hair into snakes and whoever stares at her and meets her gaze will turn into stone. That’s why they put those heads upside down so that people won’t turn into stones (huh?). There’s a puddle where each head rests which now serves like a wishing well/fountain, so I threw in a few coins and made my wishes (hoping all will come true).

Basilica Cistern. If you have seen the movie Inferno (the 3rd installment of Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code series with Tom Hanks and Felicity Jones), then this may look familiar to you.

Istanbul is also known for its hamams, so to satisfy my curiosity, I tried it. I’ve never been in a steam bath before so this is something new to me. What I had before was a thermal bath in Budapest, where I enjoyed how the underground thermal water (hot spring) felt when you immersed your body in different thermal pools. Hamam is different though, it’s like the modern day wet sauna. It apparently has health benefits, where the most common is to sweat those toxins out of your body and stimulates the body to heal faster. I would have enjoyed the experience if not for those staring eyes that made me uneasy. You know how Arabs eyes are like: big, dark, and deep, that when they stare, it feels like it’s piercing thru your soul. If I were Medusa, the whole room would have been filled with stone statues. Not sure if it’s due to the fact that I was the only Asian inside, but some went beyond staring. After the attendant towel-dried me and wrapped towels around my body and head like a turban, I looked at myself in the mirror and realized that probably some of the stares may have been due to how I look: like a young Persian prince of ancient times, tanned and smooth face, unique in its own way. I left the hamam feeling good and refreshed but also felt unsettled and ‘violated’ with all the unnecessary attention I got.

The two Medusa heads (Basilica Cistern). You’ll probably see some of the coins I threw in.

Of course, the trip should be enjoyed with good food. Well, I ditched the fine dining part (remember I’m on a tight budget, except for one time where I had dinner in this nice restaurant under Galata bridge called Yaka Balik with nice view of the sunset and the Bosphorus River with cruise boats passing by which reminds me of Paris) and instead settled most of the time for turo turo (it’s a Filipino term referring to how one points a finger to cooked dishes as displayed in heating trays on the restaurant counter like those in a cafeteria). Aside from the usual fish, meat, and chicken viands, Istanbul (or the rest of Turkey) is known for its Turkish desserts. I’m not really fond of desserts, but when it comes to Turkish desserts, I would indulge in this guilty pleasure in a heartbeat. There’s just so much variety to choose from: halvas, baklavas, and the popular Turkish delights. One of the oldest shops, Hakki Zade, apparently has been using the same recipe since 1864 and always popular with tourists. You don’t also have to worry eating or shopping late as restos and shops close at 2 in the morning while bars are open with loud band music booming ’til the wee hours of the morning.

Don’t undermine the humble turo-turo. It’s probably the only turo-turo in the world with chandeliers.

Yes, Istanbul is open 24/7, always alive and kicking. Istiklal Street (which is Istanbul’s answer to New York’s 5th Avenue, Sydney’s George Street, Auckland’s Queen’s Street or even Paris’ Champs Elysees) is still bustling with people even at past midnight. The first night I’ve noticed this, I did ask the hotel receptionist if Turks actually sleep. He said in jest that his people only rest when they are already tired from all the merry making. Makes me wonder how they could actually function during the day. Because streets are always filled with people all day and all night long, especially Istiklal (you’ll be amazed at how many people fill this street at any given time of the day or night), litters abound. When there’s a sudden downpour, these streets will be drenched and with those litters in puddles, make the city looks filthy.

The waiter preparing and serving my first testi kebab.

So that’s Istanbul for you. A city with a sleeper hit of a past and a present that never sleeps. It’s dirty (pun intended), filthy, and dodgy, but somehow endearing and charming, like a bad boy that good girls go after. Like Vegas, what happens in Istanbul stays in Istanbul.