Travel Buzz

Pattaya, Thailand

I would normally hie off to beaches during the Christmas season. That has been my yearly practice, not so much because of the cooler weather this time of the year but to just get out of the Philippines where this season can be very stressful. To those who haven’t been to the Philippines this time of the year, this is the worst place to be in given that almost everyone is outside of their homes either to be somewhere to have endless Christmas lunches and dinners. or to do piece meal shopping for gifts and groceries, or to see the Christmas displays and lights in malls and parks. These create the most horrific traffic in the metropolis, worse than any given day (traffic is already horrible on normal days), especially where I live (Makati City which is the central business district) where getting from point A to point B would be an epic journey. Cases in point: just driving to Rockwell Center where I would normally go to watch a movie, dine out, or do my shopping would already take me about an hour when it’s just 1.7km from where I live; getting to see my orthopedic surgeon for my post surgery consult will take me about the same time when it’s only about 2.9km from my place. Not to mention that you have to contend with reckless drivers, both in cars and on motorcycles. So you can imagine my stress and frustrations during this time of the year when you cannot do your usual routine without having to go thru this road ordeal.

Stress-free holiday (Pattaya Beach)

That’s why I have created by own tradition and I am unapologetic about it. I may sound like a Christmas grinch, but I already have so much Christmas memories from the old tradition that I’d rather make a new one that is stress-free. And what better way to stay free from being stressed than the soothing effect of the sun, sea, and sands. This is where Thailand comes to mind, which is one of my favorite Southeast Asian destinations. I have discovered Pattaya for the first time last year, and I thought why not go there again to see the other side.

Dongtan Beach

Yes, there are two sides of Pattaya. Just like Bali (where you have the main beach Kuta and the quiet side that is Nusa Dua), Pattaya has main beach called Pattaya, and the quiet side that are Jomtien and Dongtan beaches. Same as last year, I booked a flight via Bangkok using my Krisflyer miles (Singapore Airlines frequent flyer program). For 40,000 miles, I got a roundtrip business class ticket for Thai Airways (member of Star Alliance along with Singapore Airlines) and only paid about $70 for taxes and surcharges. Not bad given that this is a direct flight, compared last year where one leg of my flight was with Singapore Airlines where I have to spend a few hours layover in Singapore airport. I arrived in Bangkok late in the night, which is fine given that I don’t have to contend with bad traffic if I have arrived earlier in the day.

My hotel room in Bangkok (Novotel Bangkok Silom Road)

Same as last year, I booked a room at Novotel Bangkok Silom Road using my Accor card. What I liked about this hotel is that aside from its location, it offers a value-for-money buffet. For 299 bht and 700 bht for lunch and dinner respectively, I can eat as much fresh shrimps and mussels as I want along with other fares such as salmon and kani sashimi, kebab, pasta dishes, pastries, and fruits. The only difference is that dinner offers unlimited alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks and frozen desserts. I love the fresh shrimps (red shrimps and river shrimps) that are so delicious (the red shrimps have that sweet taste that makes it different from the ordinary shrimps here in the Philippines; the only time I have tasted shrimps this good in it’s fresh form was in Lisbon, Portugal). So for the price it was worth it. Not only the food was good, but the room was also value for money. For less than a $100 a night, I got a spacious room that came with the basic amenities. My only complaint is that it didn’t come with bathrobes and slippers, the only stuff that I would love to have in a hotel room (I can do without the other amenities as I bring my own bath essentials when I travel).

Eat-all-you-can buffet (river shrimps, red shrimps, mussels, & squid)

I used Klook for the first time for my airport transfers as well as city transfers (Bangkok to/from Pattaya). I find their prices reasonable and it was actually very efficient. Unlike last year where I have to queue outside of the airport arrival area to get a taxi ticket number and wait again for my turn to get a cab (that could take a while especially if there aren’t as much cabs as passengers), with my pre-arranged airport transfer, all I did was to look for the Klook kiosk inside the airport arrival area and the rep called my designated driver and ushered me out of the airport when the car is already on its way to pick me up. So it was less hassle than before, plus the fact that you have to wait inside the airport instead of outside, where you can avoid the heat and the pollution outside.

My room in Pattaya last year (Rabbit Resort Pattaya)

It would take about 2 hours to get to Pattaya from Bangkok by car. That’s why I arranged for a premium car (Klook provided me with Toyota Fortuner) for a smoother ride given that I just had spinal surgery and I wanted to have a more comfortable road trip. Last year, I stayed at Jomtien/Dongtan area, where I booked a room at Rabbit Resort Pattaya. The reason why I chose this non-Accor hotel was because it is one of the few hotels in Pattaya that offers a resort vibe. The rooms are villa-like, where the interiors look like a traditional Thai house. So it’s not your typical hotel room that looks tired and dated. The hotel is owned by a Thai husband and an American wife whom were introduced to me during my stay. If my memory serves me right, the name of the hotel actually came from their surname, and not from that Easter bunny. The wife is actually the one who was around most of the time, meeting and entertaining guests, so the service and hospitality were more personal than casual (similar to my accommodation in Santorini). Since I also booked the Christmas eve dinner in the hotel, she invited me to join her and her husband, along with her two nephews from the US who were visiting Pattaya for the first time, in their dinner table, knowing that I was travelling alone. It was a sweet gesture, but I didn’t want to intrude in a private family affair, so I politely declined.

Jomtien Beach

The reason why this is the quiet side of Pattaya is because the area is less crowded with lesser commercial establishments than the main beach. There is a restaurant row in the commercial center where I reckon the food was good, as well as convenience stores and shops, but other than that, there are no malls or attractions that will keep the crowd in except for the beaches. But the perceived serenity and privacy of the area also attract the wrong kind of people. Not the petty thieves but the sexually obsessed ones. Not sure if it’s because I look like a local, but that doesn’t give foreigners the right to treat locals like sex objects or commodities, particularly in public (unless if you are in sexually charged streets or establishments which are not uncommon in this country). Maybe such behavior is tolerated in this country’s culture (hence the choice of word “obsessed” rather than “perverted” cause that behavior towards locals could be the new normal). Just to give you an idea. I was having lunch al fresco along the beach road when this burly white guy stopped on his track, stood across my table, and made sexual gestures (it seems like he wanted to get off al fresco with matching tongue action). Rather than get offended (I’m already used to guys making sexual and non-sexual overtures in my travels), I actually found it amusing and awkward coz I’m not sure if he was trying to seduce me, harass me, buy/hire me, or just trying to be sexy. Good thing I was wearing shades (so no direct eye contact), so I stared back and gave a smirk (like ‘eh’ or ‘meh’). He just eventually walked away, licking his bruised ego. That incident didn’t happen once, but I have mastered the art of fending off unnecessary attention from these type of guys.

Temple of Truth

On my way back to the resort from Temple of Truth last year, my cab passed by this area that I thought didn’t exist. It was along the promenade of the main beach where there are these hotel and restaurant rows as well as malls and shops. The area reminds me of Gold Coast in Australia (where I spent the Christmas season a couple of years earlier) that has that Miami vibe. That’s why this year, I decided to go back to Pattaya and stay in this area, to experience what this side of Pattaya has to offer. Here, it’s like a melting pot of the world (like NY), where tourists from all corners abound. You know that your city has arrived (from a tourism perspective) when hordes of mainland Chinese tourists are dropped off and picked up by tourist buses. This is true across all popular cities around the world that I have been to lately. Though I try to avoid crowds like this, but I also cannot give up a place that has the right balance that I’m looking for, where you can have the sand and the sea and soak in the sun on one side of the road and the convenience of the malls and your hotel where you can cool off from all the sweating and enjoy some good food, cold drinks, and even movies on the other side of the road.

Relaxing on the lounge by the poolside (Hotel Baraquda Pattaya MGallery by Sofitel)

I booked a room at Hotel Baraquda, which counts among the M Gallery collection of Accor hotels around the world. It’s a boutique hotel, so it’s not massive like other 5-star hotels in the area. But in spite of its smaller scale, the room is spacious with its own balcony that has pool view. It came with bathrobes and slippers among other amenities (as should be) and what makes this room different from the other hotel rooms that I have stayed in was the lighting control that you can set depending on your mood. But just like any hotel room, it looks and feels tired and dated. Even the towels need to go (rough and worn out like those in Novotel Bangkok Silom Road) and should be replaced with new, fluffy sets.

My room in Pattaya this year (Hotel Baraquda Pattaya MGallery by Sofitel)

The area is a far cry from the side of Pattaya that I stayed in last year. One thing I’ve noticed is that there seems to be as much massage parlors as restaurants in the area. Like for every two restaurants, there would be a massage parlor in between, I wonder whether these establishments actually make money given the competition. Then there are the big and small malls. The one I would frequent to was the Central Festival mall, which was not only close to my hotel (there were at least two smaller malls that were nearer), but it has everything that I look for in a mall. I was glad to find an Ippudo branch there (for my favorite Akamaru ramen) as well as new finds such as the Shabu Shi by Oishi, an eat-all-you-can shabu shabu place with a buffet of sushi, sashimi, and tempura, a drink buffet (different soda and green tea variants), and your choice of ice cream and sherbet, all for 419 bht. When you enter the place, they would ask you to choose among the four broths (chicken, tom yum, a black broth that was on the sweet side, and a milky broth that I didn’t try). Then they will usher you to a seat facing a moving belt of raw proteins (the ones I liked were pork belly sliced thinly like bacon, crystal shrimps, clams, and fish fillet) and vegetables for you to pick up and dip into the boiling broth of your choice. It takes about a minute or two for the protein to get cooked (you know when they’re ready once they started floating) and once drained of the excess broth and into the plate, I would dip my chopsticks on the chili sauce provided separately and tap the meat to give it a thin spread of the sauce, just enough not to overpower the taste and heat of the cooked meat. I enjoyed it so much that I went back almost every lunch and had dinner once as well (I would suggest lunch though since it looks like lunch leftovers were the ones being served for dinner). The mall also has cinemas where I got to catch the latest Star Wars franchise (The Rise of Skywalker).

Eat-all-you-can shabu shabu (Shabu Shi by Oishi, Central Festival Mall, Pattaya)

Another thing that I loved about Thailand is the Japanese influence on its food and consumer goods. Aside from those Japanese restos that I have mentioned, a lot of other Japanese restos abound both in Bangkok and Pattaya, There is even a level in Central Festival where Japanese restos mostly occupy the whole floor, aside from the predominantly Japanese kiosks at the basement food court. The supermarket in the mall carries Japanese products (like those in Isetan store in Central World Bangkok which is a specialty department store carrying Japanese products level after level), so if you are fond of anything Japanese or Thai, you only need to be in Bangkok and/or Pattaya to enjoy the best of both worlds.

(Left): Akamaru ramen and spicy gyoza (Ippudo, Central Festival Mall, Pattaya); (Right): Sushi & sashimi (Shabu Shi by Oishi, Central Festival Mall, Pattaya)

The Pattaya that I know now is different from the Pattaya I knew then. The place that I knew then may be quiet and peaceful, even sweet, but has some unexpected dark side to it. The place that I know now is lively, noisy, crowded, and sexually charged environment, yet no surprises, knowing fully well what to expect given its seedy reputation. This is where it gets interesting, where even the sexual undertones of Walking Street hasn’t prevented it from becoming a family destination just like Amsterdam’s Red Light District which has become a major tourist spot in that part of the world. In contrast, the Pattaya I knew last year has become a shadow of the Pattaya that I know now, where from my vantage point, this year’s Pattaya looked wholesome and harmless, in spite of popular belief.

Walking Street (Pattaya)

On my flight back to Manila, the stewardess gave me a local Thai paper (in English) where my horoscope for the day reads something like “Turn away from the old ways…create new traditions…” I thought this is exactly what I have been doing the past few years, and I don’t believe I’d even consider turning back to the old ways anytime soon, unless Christmas season becomes less stressful in my country.

Creating my own Christmas tradition (thru stress-free stuff that I love to do)

Nevertheless, wherever you are, whatever tradition you follow, whenever you’d feel like taking an escape, Christmas is still worth celebrating your own way (and that’s ok). So I’m sending Christmas cheers to everyone. Coz we all deserve it.

Merry Christmas!