Travel Buzz

Saigon, Vietnam

Vietnam marks a milestone in my travel life. It is the 30th country that I have visited (8th in Asia) and Saigon (now known as Ho Chi Minh City) is the nth city/place that I have been to (I’ve lost count of all the cities, towns, and places that I have seen in all 5 continents that I have set foot on). Vietnam has always been in my radar, but just like Japan, I have no explanation as to why it took me this long to finally book a flight and visit one of its cities. Maybe the proximity to my country made me think that it’s very accessible that I can visit it anytime I want (hence I’ve prioritized travelling to countries that are farther and require plenty of planning and preparation).

Bikes everywhere!

I decided to visit Vietnam last December when I came across an online article that puts the said country in its top ten countries to visit. I’ve been to 7 out of 10 in the list (the other 3 were Iceland, Vietnam, and a South American country I forgot), so I thought why not squeeze in Vietnam in my travel itinerary for the Christmas holidays so that I could claim bragging rights that I have been to 8 out of 10. I have already booked a Thai Airways return flight to Bangkok from Manila using my Krisflyer miles (see my previous article “A Tale of Two Pattayas”) so I thought maybe I could book a return flight to Saigon from Bangkok and just take my return flight to Bangkok hours before my return flight to Manila (so that I don’t need to spend an extra night in Bangkok and will save me airport transfers). I chose Thai Airways as well for the Saigon leg, so that I can have my check-in luggage sent directly to Manila on my return flight (unlike if I took a different airline where I have to pass thru Bangkok’s immigration upon arrival, claim my checked-in luggage from the carousel, and check in at the departure area, and pass thru the immigration again). Though my Thai Airways return fare to Saigon was not cheap (compared to regional budget airlines), I thought it was a hassle free travel and was happy with my decision.

Pullman Saigon Centre

Saigon is not really unfamiliar to me. The name of this place has been planted in the consciousness of Filipinos in the late 80s when the creators of the hit West End and Broadway musical “Miss Saigon” came to Manila to hold auditions for roles in the production including the lead role of Kim, the main and tragic character and center of the story. After a worldwide search for Kim (you can check out the documentary in YouTube), they have finally found not one but two potential Kims in Manila (Grammy nominated artist Lea Salonga, now popularly known as the singing voice of Princess Jasmine in the song “A Whole New World” in Disney’s animated movie “Aladdin” and Monique Wilson), where Lea was chosen for the said role (and later claimed a Tony award for Best Actress, probably the first Asian to win such award) and Monique as her understudy. There were other Filipinos who got secondary roles, so it ended up with mostly Filipino cast. If I were a bit older and already living in Manila then, I would have auditioned as well. Yes, I can sing and act, and my musical credentials include auditioning and being cast for a role in a local production of “Joseph, The Dreamer” that ran for 6 nights with full house each night (so I can say it was a hit musical production, from local perspective, which I remember I wasn’t paid because the proceeds went to charity, and I just did it for the love of the arts and philanthrophy) and was a member of my high school choir that won the competition to represent the region in the National Music Competition for Young Artists (NAMCYA). Years later, my sister, brother-in-law, and I were able to catch Miss Saigon at West End during its revival run in London (the lead male character, The Engineer, which role was originated by Oscar nominated actor Jonathan Pryce, was reprised by a Filipino theater actor named Jon Jon Briones in this production, who was splendid by the way in the said role). So going back to Saigon, it also helped that this city is at the center of the Vietnam War as presented in our history books (as well as in the musical), so I thought this is one place rich in history as well as in culture.

My upgraded room (Pullman Saigon Centre)

I booked a room at Pullman Saigon Centre using my Accor card. Though a high-end hotel, it wasn’t really pricey (Saigon is not an expensive city) so I thought why not enjoy a little luxury for a mid-scale hotel price. I was also surprised that my reserved room got upgraded. They gave me not only a bigger room (looks like a junior suite), but a corner room that has a 180 degree view (with floor to ceiling windows, it really gave me a very nice view of the city from my room). Check in was a breeze, and as usual got a free drink voucher (one of the perks of being an Accor member) which I availed at the Rooftop Bar on Christmas eve, enjoying my favorite cocktail for free. The location is also good, where it is just a few minutes walk to the Walking Street, and a few minutes ride to various places of interest.

Saigon skyline at night

What strikes me about Saigon is that it looks and feels like Manila. Some areas remind me of Quiapo, Ermita, and Sampaloc (I live in Makati City, the central business district, and I don’t go and see places outside of Makati anymore). It felt like I never left home. The resemblance is uncanny: hole in the wall business establishments, construction boom, gentle and solicitous people, a mix of the old and the new. Maybe I was in the wrong side of the city, but the abundance of French colonial heritage that I was looking for was not there (or is it in Hanoi?). What I did see a lot though were motorcycles!

Ben Thanh Market

But before I get started on the bikes, I did see some of her tourist spots. First stop was Ben Thanh Market, apparently one of the must-see in Saigon. This one reminds me of the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul. Housed in a covered building, rows and rows of stalls selling all kinds of stuff (food, clothing, souvenirs, designer knock offs, coffee beans, etc.) that to a certain saturation point, it starts to feel like a monotony where you see the same stuff all over again (unlike Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar where there is so much variety like gold, jewelry, spices, carpets, art works, etc.). One thing to take note though is that even for a jaded traveler and bargain hunter and expert haggler, sometimes you can still get fooled by sweet talk and sad stories. In my case, this happened when I was eyeing a souvenir item where the seller was telling me about her day (that she hasn’t sold an item yet and has nothing to bring home to her family) and she’s selling the said souvenir at a discounted price. Though I was able to haggle for a much lower price, I realized a day later (after seeing the same item in another location) that I got ripped off. The price is lower in that location compared to what I thought was already a good price (so looks like she upped her retail price by 3x to make her discounted and the final price look like a good buy). Though travelers don’t have the luxury of time to shop for prices for a simple souvenir item, it is still worth being on your guard for vendors who use sad stories as sales talk and try to strike a chord or pull at heartstrings as sales strategy. I may be too naive to know that (in spite of all my travel and life experiences), being an empathic and generous person, but I know that I am still a work-in-progress, and have learned to quickly move on from the feeling of being a victim and just let karma takes its course.

Notre Dame Cathedral (Saigon)

Next stop was Notre Dame Cathedral. Though I wasn’t expecting it to be grand, but still left me underwhelmed. I’ve seen her sister in Paris (before it got razed by fire last year), and she doesn’t come close in terms of beauty, character, and intricateness. Her European sister was very gothic, both exteriors and interiors, where you would even feel the eeriness inside (that’s how goth it was) while hers looks more like Spanish (like the cathedrals in my country) than French heritage. No one was allowed to go inside, so I cannot describe how it is or what’s in it, The gardens outside though are nice, which remind me of the gardens in between Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.

A tale of two cathedrals: (left) Notre Dame Cathedral Saigon; (right) Notre Dame Cathedral Paris

Right across the cathedral is the old postal office building where the main attraction is the facade of the building. Nothing spectacular, just another French architectural heritage for you to admire. Inside, it is now full of stalls and kiosks selling all kinds of stuff (like a smaller version of Ben Thanh Market and this is where I found that same souvenir item at a lower price). Another tourist spot is the Independence Palace, which is on the other side of the large park across the cathedral. The architecture is of modern design (like that of the 70s/80s) but I didn’t check out what’s inside (there’s an entrance fee and I wasn’t really in the mood to be reminded of how dreadful wars are). Around the area are nice cafes and restaurants to hang out (particularly on the sides of the large park) and her two biggest malls (Vincom Center and Saigon Centre) are just a few minutes walk away.

Old Central Post Office (Saigon)

You can actually see all these in one day by just walking. You can start from Ben Thanh Market, then walk towards Saigon Center. From there, you can walk to the Independence Palace. You can take a quick detour to Vincom Center, then back to the Palace and have a leisurely walk across the park to get to both Notre Dame Cathedral and the old postal office. So you think that if I’ve known better, I would do all these in one day by walking? Hell no! This is where I get started on the bikes.

Independence Palace (Saigon)

Simply put, there are just too many bikes. They take up every iota of space available including the sidewalks. The worst part is that no one seems to follow road courtesy. I’m not even sure if there are any road safety regulations. In other words, there is just no discipline. You try to cross the street when the pedestrian green light is on, yet you’ll still be cut off by bikes. Some are even counter flowing. The sidewalks are different battlefields (or more like minefields). Here, there are no road lanes and traffic lights (it’s a sidewalk for Pete’s sake) so in their minds, it’s free for all. No rules. Everything’s fair game. I love to walk while exploring a new place, but I’ve never been so scared walking in all my travels.

Walking Street (Saigon). Even this street is not spared by bikes (right).

No wonder I don’t see many locals walking (it’s normally just tourists you see walking). Every local seems to own a bike. Saigon is a good place to walk, but because of the sheer number of bikes on the road, for me it’s one of the most dangerous places for walking. If you dare to walk, you need to further expand your peripheral vision (more than 180 degrees if possible). Coz you’ll know exactly what will hit you. Even the so-called Walking Street is not spared. Unlike its namesake in Pattaya, half of the stretch here is still used by bikes. So it’s pretty ironic that it’s called “walking” street, when you won’t expect that it’s gonna be bike free (as ironic as side “walk”).

Dining at two of my fave restos in Saigon: Dim Tu Tac & Crystal Jade Kitchen (Saigon Centre)

So how did I get by while I was there? I took the Grab (Southeast Asia’s version of Uber) most of the time. It’s not expensive (normally a dollar from my hotel to Saigon Centre during off peaks). I would take Grab even for short distances (which I would normally walk under different circumstances). I would rather pay for a ride than risk walking. That’s how much I value my life.

Would I go back to Saigon? Nah. Probably not. It’s Manila, only on bikes! I just hope Manila doesn’t evolve into another Saigon. A daunting prospect that actually gives me the chills.

Enjoying the rooftop view with my fave cocktail (Rooftop Bar, Pullman Saigon Centre)