This happened last year days before my birthday. I have Enrich Miles (Malaysia Airlines) expiring and it was only enough for a short haul return flight (from Manila) so I thought what better way to spend my birthday than fly to one of its local destinations. I thought it would be nice to stay in a beach resort where I could sit back, relax, have a quiet day to celebrate my birthday while enjoying the sun, sea, and sands. That is how I would usually spend my birthday, either in one of our islands (like El Nido Resorts Palawan two years earlier) or abroad (like Guam the year before). As usual, I googled ‘best beach resort in Malaysia’ and came across a list from an international travel magazine. The Danna Langkawi topped that list and made it easier for me to decide where to go. So I booked a flight to Langkawi using my expiring miles.
Hotel exteriors and grounds
Like my last trip to Athens, the trip to Langkawi didn’t go without hiccups. When I got to Langkawi, my luggage didn’t arrive with me. I already had a feeling that there’s a possibility of that happening, since my outbound flight (from Manila) to Kuala Lumpur was delayed by more than an hour that ate up my layover time in KL before my connecting flight to Langkawi. Given that I’ll be only staying for a couple of nights in Langkawi, it’s quite stressful to know that I only had the clothes on my back in an island in a foreign country until the airline could sort out the exact location of my luggage, not to mention the paperwork at the lost baggage section of Langkawi airport. Tired, weary, and worried about my luggage, I checked in at The Danna thinking that I don’t want my birthday to end up like that, stressful. Even with the refreshing welcome drink and wet towel, my mind was still with my missing luggage. When the receptionist learned about my luggage situation, she assured me that the hotel will handle it. All I have to do is just to surrender the copy of the paperwork that I did at the airport and they will be the ones to do the follow thru. That’s when I started to relax.
Oasis inside with a pond full of colorful carps and the immaculate infinity pool
After checking in, they ushered me to the receiving area and gave me a free 15 minute massage. I found my worries slowly dissipate with the relaxing massage. I would have wanted more time, but that would cost me already. So I decided to proceed to my room. Before reaching my room, I was already pleased with the wide hallways along balconies. The hotel building is like a square from an aerial view, where the internal balconies are facing a hollow center where sea breeze can freely flow thru and external balconies have either city or sea views. When I got to my room, I was glad that it was spacious and has that resort vibe. It also has nice views of the marina and the beach.
Marina view and the bathroom
The hotel wasn’t crowded that time so I freely moved around, checking out every nook and cranny. I fell in love with the colonial design amidst modern amenities like the infinity pool. My favorite part aside from the pool and the beach was the lounge, with high ceilings that exude classic ambiance and a baby grand piano as the centerpiece. There’s also a lush garden inside, an oasis in a predominantly white concrete setting. There’s a pond that extends around the garden, where colorful carps have plenty of space to freely swim and enjoy regular feeding from hotel staff at different spots and snacks from hotel guests. It seems like these gentle creatures have become smarter, knowing exactly where to go and get second helpings from different feeding spots. Very clever indeed.
Lounge and bar
Then there’s the infinity pool. The loungers are sitting on shallow pool water, so it’s something different than the typical dry ones. It was so enticing to take a dip, but unfortunately, I wasn’t ‘dressed’ appropriately, so I decided to go to the beach instead. Just before the beach is a garden where tables, chairs, lighting, and sound system were being set up for what looks like a wedding reception. It was no doubt a wedding, as there were chairs already set up on the beach for the ceremony as well as an arch for the exchange of vows. I was about to witness another beach wedding I thought, similar to what I’ve seen a couple of years earlier at Shelly Beach in Sydney. Guests started to descend to the beach in their cocktail dresses and tux, while I was there lounging on the side with the same clothes I had since that early morning flight. Pre-wedding cocktails were served and a few minutes later, the ceremony started. Lovely, I thought, and perfect weather too.
Garden reception, beach wedding, and the uninvited guest who wasn’t dressed appropriately for the occasion.
After enjoying the scene and daydreaming (yeah, I’m a hopeless romantic), I decided to go back to my room. I wasn’t expecting to be met by a nice surprise: the hotel staff transformed my room by setting up balloons and ribbons on the four bed pillars. In one of the tables, there was a mini birthday cake and a bottle of chilled champagne, with a note greeting me on that special day where the gifts are “compliments of The Danna.” Overwhelmed by the kind gesture, I took it all in and was very grateful of the blessing. The hotel staff probably noticed the birth date on my passport upon check in and discreetly passed it on to hotel management and decided to make that birthday memorable. As if that wasn’t perfect enough, I saw my luggage sitting on the luggage holder. Wasn’t I so happy to be reunited with my luggage in a beautiful room setting with celebratory decor, all courtesy of the hotel. What more can I ask for.
My room (before and after the surprise transformation) and the birthday gifts ‘compliments of The Danna’
When I checked out a couple of days later I thanked the staff for the kind thoughts, pleasant surprise, and tremendous gestures. They went over and beyond to make my stay a fabulous experience and a birthday I would cherish in a long time. What the hotel management and staff did was a perfect example of what hospitality and value added service are all about. It went beyond limits that left a lasting impression, finding solutions and creating memories to make every stay count. No matter how brief an escape that was, it was a birthday to remember, thanks to The Danna.
Some of the meals I had in the hotel (seafood pasta marinara, stir fried seafood chinese noodles, and filet mignon)
I flew out of Santorini (Greece: Of Myths, Mediterranean Food, and Beaches Part 2) to Athens on a Volotea flight. Good thing about this flight is that it lands in Athen’s international airport where I took my Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul in the same terminal just a few hours apart. Before taking my onward flight, I had lunch at the airport and was just happy to have found Burger King. You know (from the photos I’ve shared with my Greece stories in the 2-part article), I haven’t had fastfood in the 10 nights that I stayed in Greece and I’ve been craving for it so it was the first fastfood that I thought would satisfy my cravings and it actually did. Finished 8 pieces of chicken wings, medium fries, and a large Coke Zero. Since I still have a few hours to kill, I went to Starbucks (my first in this trip) to get a drink and finish the article that I was writing for this blog before heading to the gate 30 minutes ’til boarding time.
Along the Bosphorus river bank after having dinner at Yaka Balik restaurant under the Galata bridge
It was an uneventful flight. When I got to Turkey’s international airport, I was met by a rep of the transport company that my hotel has commissioned to pick me up. I told him that I need to look for an ATM first coz I need local currency. One thing I learned from my travels is that sometimes it’s better to withdraw from local ATM rather than bring dollars and convert it to local currency since the conversion rate is so much better and there is no commission fee (this is particularly true in Madrid where you’ll get ripped off with the conversion rate alone). He advised me to do it in the city as the ATMs in the airport charge commission fee. I was glad he told me that, it gave me a good first impression of Turks, especially after that unfortunate experience in Mykonos. He led me to my van, a modern unit where the seats look like 2 leather sofas facing each other and I had it all for myself. It was a pleasant ride indeed.
My suite room (ODDA Hotel). I love the classic toilet design.
I was dropped in my hotel, ODDA. As I mentioned in my previous article, I have to downgrade my hotel accommodation to cut my losses from that Mykonos scam. I was originally booked at Rixos Pera Istanbul using my Le Club Accor. It’s a high-end hotel at mid-scale price (using my Accor card) so I thought why not. Turkey is not an expensive city unlike the rest of Europe, so having a little luxury for a good price is something that I would normally go for. Unfortunately, I have to give it up and settled for a less classy property in a less desirable address. Don’t get me wrong though, ODDA Hotel is in a good location if you want to be near everything (a few steps away from the main avenues, particularly the popular Istiklal Caddesi, and few minutes to the nearest Metro), but it’s just that it’s in that part of the center where bars abound as well as hole in the wall shops and restos, which give it a dodgy feel especially at night.
Istiklal Caddesi filled with people at any given time of the day and night.
The accommodation, to say the least, is decent. I got a suite (yes, you heard me right). But before anyone questions my judgement especially after getting ripped off in Mykonos, you will be surprised at how much I got that suite room. Let’s just say I got it for less than a 100 euro a night. Quite a good buy, right? Though it’s not as posh as the room I had at St. Regis Abu Dhabi and in dire need of some refurbishments, I liked the extra space (living room, bedroom, separate shower and toilet). It’s a welcome respite from tight spaces typical of European hotel rooms. The only negatives are that the furnitures need some upgrade and the whole place needs a face lift.
Hagia Sofia (exterior and interiors)
Before embarking on this Turkish journey, I already had an idea which touristy sites I would like to see given the limited time that I’ll be in Istanbul. My sister suggested that I see the MillStone Cave Suites at Cappadocia for the hot air balloons but that’s outside of Istanbul and I don’t have enough days to stay there not to mention the travel time to get there. So I’ll reserve that for future trips, which will give me a reason to come back to Turkey. I decided to see only Istanbul for all its glory on a tight budget (after spending a fortune in a tourist trap that was Mykonos). I didn’t do the hop-on-hop-off bus anymore (which I would normally do to acclimatize myself in every new environment I’m in) to save some euros and time. So what I did was to get a loadable Metro card and got myself familiarized with the subway system and stations nearest to the sites I’d like to see. Unlike that of Tokyo, Istanbul’s subway system is quite simple and easy to understand.
Blue Mosque (exterior and interiors)
My first stop was the area where both Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque stand only separated by a park. These two structures define Istanbul both in terms of legacy and grandeur. Both are strategically located and stand apart just with enough space in between for people to stroll and appreciate these ancient beauties. Hagia Sofia is pinkish in appearance, while Blue Mosque is, of course, bluish. Between these two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, in terms of facade, I like the latter better. It is more majestic in presence, like a King with his Queen just a few steps behind. The interiors of both though were underwhelming. Like food, it wasn’t as tasty as it looks. Don’t get me wrong, there were a lot of intricate and meticulous details and undeniable unique aesthetics, which many would say work of art, but I have seen better with less hype. Maybe I was just expecting much (just like with Rome) and that’s always been one of my flaws. Like going to the movies, I would always tend to read the reviews before going in and leave the movie house underwhelmed.
Grand Bazaar. Bought souvenir items, local soaps, and a carpet.
Around the area are ‘hidden’ mini bazaars (didn’t have any idea that there were shops at the bottom of some stairs in the area) and I was stopped on my tracks a few times by friendly Turks inviting me to see their stalls in discrete spots. I’m not sure whether I look like a loaded tourist, where locals would usually come up to me and ask where I’m from and if I’m interested to see the wares they’re selling, from jewelry to precious stones, from carpets to artworks. I don’t think I wear fashionable clothes to have that look (I’m not gunning for that look, believe me). Not sure whether I’d be flattered by the attention, but I’m just a regular guy who likes to travel to see the sights and enjoy the food with shopping furthest from my mind. I had plans to visit the Grand Bazaar anyway, so I’d rather do the shopping there than entertain these guys.
Topkapi Palace Museum
Like Athens or any other ancient city, a visit to Istanbul won’t be complete without seeing her museums. My ticket for Hagia Sofia (which is now a museum) also entitled me to see two other museums: Istanbul Archaeological Museum and the Topkapi Palace Museum (discounted 3 in 1 ticket). The Archaeological Museum was just ok, no amazing or spectacular finds. My takeaways from the visit weren’t any good archaeological finds but the beautiful tiled building outside of the main building and a blackened toenail after tripping on probably ancient rock lying on the grounds of the mini archaeological garden beside the refreshment area. Topkapi Palace Museum, on the other hand, was a different story. The gardens leading to the different buildings inside a huge compound are beautiful. Well maintained and manicured, it gives the place a refreshing vibe that complements whatever awesome finds inside the buildings that house ancient relics and artifacts including what many believed was Moses’ staff. There are other finds which Muslims would consider sacred, that’s why it’s no surprise that the crowd would be mostly Arabs since the Palace is visited for its unique collections with historical and religious significance.
The Milion. See how far Manila was from the ancient zero-marker.
There are two other sites that are worth seeing. One is for free, the other with minimum fee. The former is The Milion, a 4th century A.D. monument, erected as a zero-marker during the Byzantine era used as starting place for measuring distances. What stands now is just the remains of the monument. People would normally pass by it, not realizing the presence of a significant marker. The other one is the Basilica Cistern, a 6th century A.D. underground cistern that can hold 100,000 tons of water. This is the main source of water for the capital of the Byzantine empire. Aside from the spectacular columns (336 per my count, just kidding), the “Sunken Palace” also houses two Medusa heads used as plinths and considered as masterpieces of sculpture art during the Roman period. Myths have it (again with reference to Greek mythology) that Medusa was a beautiful girl (with gorgeous eyes and hair) in love with Perseus, son of Zeus. Athena, who was also in love with Perseus, was so jealous of her that she turned her lustrous hair into snakes and whoever stares at her and meets her gaze will turn into stone. That’s why they put those heads upside down so that people won’t turn into stones (huh?). There’s a puddle where each head rests which now serves like a wishing well/fountain, so I threw in a few coins and made my wishes (hoping all will come true).
Basilica Cistern. If you have seen the movie Inferno (the 3rd installment of Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code series with Tom Hanks and Felicity Jones), then this may look familiar to you.
Istanbul is also known for its hamams, so to satisfy my curiosity, I tried it. I’ve never been in a steam bath before so this is something new to me. What I had before was a thermal bath in Budapest, where I enjoyed how the underground thermal water (hot spring) felt when you immersed your body in different thermal pools. Hamam is different though, it’s like the modern day wet sauna. It apparently has health benefits, where the most common is to sweat those toxins out of your body and stimulates the body to heal faster. I would have enjoyed the experience if not for those staring eyes that made me uneasy. You know how Arabs eyes are like: big, dark, and deep, that when they stare, it feels like it’s piercing thru your soul. If I were Medusa, the whole room would have been filled with stone statues. Not sure if it’s due to the fact that I was the only Asian inside, but some went beyond staring. After the attendant towel-dried me and wrapped towels around my body and head like a turban, I looked at myself in the mirror and realized that probably some of the stares may have been due to how I look: like a young Persian prince of ancient times, tanned and smooth face, unique in its own way. I left the hamam feeling good and refreshed but also felt unsettled and ‘violated’ with all the unnecessary attention I got.
The two Medusa heads (Basilica Cistern). You’ll probably see some of the coins I threw in.
Of course, the trip should be enjoyed with good food. Well, I ditched the fine dining part (remember I’m on a tight budget, except for one time where I had dinner in this nice restaurant under Galata bridge called Yaka Balik with nice view of the sunset and the Bosphorus River with cruise boats passing by which reminds me of Paris) and instead settled most of the time for turo turo (it’s a Filipino term referring to how one points a finger to cooked dishes as displayed in heating trays on the restaurant counter like those in a cafeteria). Aside from the usual fish, meat, and chicken viands, Istanbul (or the rest of Turkey) is known for its Turkish desserts. I’m not really fond of desserts, but when it comes to Turkish desserts, I would indulge in this guilty pleasure in a heartbeat. There’s just so much variety to choose from: halvas, baklavas, and the popular Turkish delights. One of the oldest shops, Hakki Zade, apparently has been using the same recipe since 1864 and always popular with tourists. You don’t also have to worry eating or shopping late as restos and shops close at 2 in the morning while bars are open with loud band music booming ’til the wee hours of the morning.
Don’t undermine the humble turo-turo. It’s probably the only turo-turo in the world with chandeliers.
Yes, Istanbul is open 24/7, always alive and kicking. Istiklal Street (which is Istanbul’s answer to New York’s 5th Avenue, Sydney’s George Street, Auckland’s Queen’s Street or even Paris’ Champs Elysees) is still bustling with people even at past midnight. The first night I’ve noticed this, I did ask the hotel receptionist if Turks actually sleep. He said in jest that his people only rest when they are already tired from all the merry making. Makes me wonder how they could actually function during the day. Because streets are always filled with people all day and all night long, especially Istiklal (you’ll be amazed at how many people fill this street at any given time of the day or night), litters abound. When there’s a sudden downpour, these streets will be drenched and with those litters in puddles, make the city looks filthy.
The waiter preparing and serving my first testi kebab.
So that’s Istanbul for you. A city with a sleeper hit of a past and a present that never sleeps. It’s dirty (pun intended), filthy, and dodgy, but somehow endearing and charming, like a bad boy that good girls go after. Like Vegas, what happens in Istanbul stays in Istanbul.
To pick up where we left off (where I talked about Athens in the earlier part of this article), I have always been curious about the Greek isles which not a few have been raving about. That’s why before embarking on this Greek adventure, I have decided to see two of the most popular ones, Mykonos and Santorini, and booked hotels in these two islands. On my last day in Athens, I went to a local tour office in Athens and bought a one way ferry ticket to Mykonos. I got the Blue Star Ferries ticket where the port is in Piraeus, about half an hour by car (sans traffic). The ferry leaves at 8 in the morning and it’s about a 4-hour trip. There are ferries that run faster, but the faster it gets, the rougher the ride and I don’t want to get seasick thereafter. The ride was pleasant and gave me time to write another article for the blog. I got a business class seat, but on hindsight, I should have settled for economy coz the common dining lounge already looks comfortable. Business class may be advisable on peak season where coach can get too crowded for comfort.
Business class section of Blue Star Ferry
Mykonos
We reached Mykonos around noon and my mistake was not to confirm the hotel transfer with my hotel (Super Paradise Suites) that I have included in my hotel booking. So I waited for a ride that wasn’t there to start with. So after hanging up on hotel staff learning that there’s no transfer to the hotel, I shared a cab with two young ladies from Utah who happen to be staying in the same hotel. We chatted with the cab driver and learned that locals and non-locals alike only work in the island from April to September and the island becomes silent in the next 6 months. There will still be some tourists on lean months, but most of the restos and shops are closed during this period. Non-locals then return to their home base, while locals take this opportunity to travel.
Luxury shops in the island that remind me of those in Capri
The hotel is situated on the hilly edge of Super Paradise Beach (not to be mistaken with another beach in the island called Paradise Beach). So getting to and from the beach would require some hiking which I don’t mind (good daily exercise for me) but not recommended for anyone with mobility concerns given the very steep trail to the beach as well as to where the shuttle that goes to town proper would pick up passengers. When I got to my room, I was pleased with the stunning views of the beach and the Aegean sea with the mountains as backdrop. Just like any island resort, everything here is expensive. Sun beds will set you back as much as 50 euros for a day rent (prices drop as beds get farther away from the shore). Aegean sea reminds me of Mediterranean sea, mystical, magical, enticing clear blue waters (the latter though is on the greenish shade). Per feng shui, my birth element is water, so I’m not surprised why I always get attracted to bodies of water. Maybe I’m a descendant of Poseidon (who lost by the way to Athena on that epic battle I shared in the first part of the article).
View from my room (Super Paradise Suites)
Mykonos, like Bali, is a beach haven so your trip to the island would mostly consists of beach hopping. On hindsight, I should have stayed in any of the hotels in the town proper since that is where all the buses that go to the different beaches pick passengers. It could have saved me a few euros from the daily shuttle between my hotel and the town proper and getting on a bus to the next beach. But what didn’t save me from the island greed was a trip to Platys Gialos beach. That’s where I realized that Mykonos, with all its charm and beauty, can also have the most cruel tourist trap that even the most seasoned traveler could fall victim to. I made a mistake of being lured into Dk Oyster, a beachfront seafood resto. With its nice sun beds facing a beautiful beach, I was enticed with what the in-house ‘hawkers’ sell as a good buy where if you dine in the resto for at least 50 euros, you get a sun bed all day for free, otherwise you pay the same amount up front for a day rent. So I went in and came out 700 euros lighter and 700 euros wiser. How’d that happen? Below is the screen grab from my Tripadvisor review:
The biggest lesson I got from this experience is not what I’ve lost but how to keep a positive mindset after the initial shock and trauma. As I’ve said, it was cruel, which took me a while to recover, but when I did, I tried to condition myself to continue enjoying the holiday and just find ways to cut my losses. I’m here on a holiday and no matter what happens, I’ll move on and enjoy the rest of my vacation. First task I did after accepting my fate was to downgrade my Istanbul hotel (last leg of my trip) which I booked thru my Le Club Accor so I was still able to cancel it a few days before my actual stay. I was able to save a few hundred euros after finding a much cheaper hotel (but in a less desirable location though). I was also able to cut on my onward ferry ticket to Santorini and saved a few more euros from giving up sun beds and just lay on the sands to enjoy the sun and the sea. On hindsight, I should have checked the reviews in Tripadvisor before getting in, coz now I’ve learned that not a few have been victimized by Dk Oyster, with each one having a #metoo horror story to tell. The vileness continues, where for every negative review, Tripadvisor will be flooded with fake positive reviews (you be the judge when you read all the ‘positive’ reviews particularly this peak season). But in spite of all these, I stayed true to myself and kept whatever dignity I have left from this experience: I didn’t scrimp on food (see Travel In Style Part 2) and would never blame my misfortune on being a foodie. Bad things happen to good people not because they love good food.
Some of the meals I had in Mykonos. From left: Spaghetti Frutti de Mare, Mussels Marinara, and Lamb Chops (yes, they are all delish!)
So I also checked out Paradise Beach. Just like Super Paradise beach, party starts at 4PM when the sound systems would start booming loud music and partyphiles would gather and groove in their swimwear with drinks on hand. As in Super Paradise beach, there is a portion of the beach for nudist, where young and old, of different shapes and sizes, will bare and let it all hang out like it’s nobody’s business. Someone who comes from a conservative society like the Philippines would probably cringe at the sight, but not me. I’ve seen similar places before (like the lakes in Germany during summer) where I’d probably be more culture shocked with how nasty tourist traps are than public nudity. So if you think my swimwear pics are too out there, think again. Coz that’s nothing compared to what’s out there.
Santorini
So after having enough of the popular beaches (and greed) of Mykonos, I took a ferry to Santorini. I bought a one way Golden Star ferry ticket from a tour office in Mykonos town. The trip from Mykonos to Santorini was about 5 hours, so it gave me some more free time to finish an article I was writing. Unlike what happened at Mykonos port, I have a driver waiting for me at Santorini port to bring me to Ersi Villas. On the way, I chatted with the driver and unlike Mykonos, Santorini is open all year round to tourists. Upon dropping me at the villas, I instantly got the homey vibe and feel that I was expecting from this kind of accommodation. I was met by Elias, the amiable owner of the villas and right away gave me directions and tips on what to do in the island. A traveler himself, Elias knows exactly what guests need and was even generous in swapping travel stories with me as well as helping me out with my island itinerary.
View of the Caldera
The villa is located on the mid section of the hill (Santorini is hilly, like San Francisco hilly) in Firostefani. Firostefani is in between Fira, the capital town, and Imerovigli. Firostefani has good number of shops and restos, and the walk path from Firostefani square to Imerovigli is what I would call the best resto row. Here you will find some of the best restos in the island, from To Briki to La Maison. They offer traditional Greek dishes and my ultimate fave, seafood! All three towns are easy walk from each other, that’s why no need to take the bus, unless you want to get to the far end of the island where Oia is with its popular sunset or to the different beaches in the island. Just like in Mykonos, you have to take the buses at the Fira town proper to get to the different beaches.
A guy proposing to his girl at the popular Oia sunset viewing deck. Everyone in the crowd who was there for the sunset cheered after she said “Uhmm…” Just kidding, she said yes 🙂
If I have to describe Santorini in one word, then it would be ‘stunning.’ It actually reminds me of Positano, where the views are just simply stunning. Even the beaches have better views than Mykonos. It makes me wonder now why I even went to Mykonos, when Santorini can offer the same experience (except for the greed) plus so much more. From its caldera to mountain views, beaches to sunsets, dining to shopping, everything seems to bring out only positive and exciting experience. Santorinians are more welcoming, hospitable, and true, and seems to put guest satisfaction over selfish gains. In fact, during this whole Greek adventure, it was in Santorini where I had the best dining experience. I never had any disappointment in all the restos I have dined in where not only the food was great, but the service was at par with my personal standards and expectations and you are seated at the edge of the caldera with its magnificent views.
Best dining experience (need I say more?). From left: Amberjack (La Maison), Dorade (The Greeks), Pork Ribs (To Briki), and Pork Steak (Metropolis Str.)
The beaches did not disappoint as well. Being born out of volcanic activity, Santorini is blessed with beaches that have stunning views and clear waters. I’ve never been happier doing beach hopping, even if I had to take a treacherous path just to get to one of the popular ones called Red Beach. You know, you have to take this very narrow and steep trail with sharp edged rocks and boulders, where some slight miscalculations will easily scrape that beautiful tanned skin. Then you have to negotiate for space in the foot traffic between people going down and up the trail. Though I didn’t overhear anyone saying “is there like an elevator or something?” (Part 1 of this article) but how I wish there was an easier way to get to the beach. The boat that I took for the sea cruise does not pick up or offload passengers on the beach, so the only way to get there is to take this dangerous path. I almost gave up mid way, but I’m just glad I didn’t. If only for the stunning views, I would recommend it for a visit, but just be careful going down and up the trail.
Imagine climbing down to reach the beach and up again to the main road (Red Beach)
So I ended my Greek adventure on a high note, where Santorini was definitely the highlight of the trip. As I mentioned in the first part of this article, there were hiccups and misfortunes along the way, but what is an adventure without the unexpected, the twist and turns, the danger, and most importantly the lessons learned. As I contemplate on my flight back to Athens to take my onward flight to Istanbul, I smiled knowing that I had a good one inspite of. As I’ve quoted in my earlier article (The Joys of Travelling Solo), I would come out a different person from each trip and now I’m a better version of myself than I was before I embarked on this trip. Like in the Greek mythology, I have fought some battles and personal demons along the way (where you would tend to question yourself and create self doubt) of which I have won and restored my core, appreciated the goodness of Mediterranean food, and enjoyed the beach life just how it should be lived.
Life’s a beach. From top left clockwise: Perissa Beach, Kamari Beach, Platys Gialos Beach, & Super Paradise Beach (Hey Sports Illustrated, why don’t you consider these locations for next year’s swimsuit edition with Kelsey Merritt on the cover?)
So I finally decided to go to Greece after years of having it in my bucket list. Greece has always been an exciting destination for me but having read some negative feedback particularly on Athens, that eagerness to see this glorious country has taken a back seat for a while until last April when Oman Air’s maiden flight to Athens for June was on promo. I thought that was the sign to pack up my bags and go on a Greek adventure.
Athens
My Room (Vitruvius Smart Hotel & Spa)
Unlike most of my trips, this one went not without any hiccups and misfortunes. When I arrived in Athens International Airport in the evening, I was met by my driver Venediktod from Welcome Pickups which was a good decision on my part to book a hassle-free airport transfer. The price did not differ much if I have taken a cab from the airport so I decided to try this transport company and I’m just glad I did. I was ushered in a Benz and the whole trip to the city was very pleasant (spacious leather seats with welcome bottled water) until I got to my hotel (Vitruvius Smart Hotel & Spa). Tired and weary from a 15-hour flight (not to mention more than 2 hours layover in Muscat and 3 hours at Manila airport), I was told that they have overbooked for that night and cannot give me any room. Something like this I would dread every time I travel (though this is the first time that it happened to me), I told them assertively that it’s their problem (not mine) and they have to fix it. So long story short, they looked for available hotels in the area and when they found one, they booked me a cab and told me that everything has been arranged for and I don’t need to pay for the night in that hotel and can return the next day for the rest of my booking.
Essentially I lost almost a day since I could only check in the next day around 2PM and I don’t want to go around the city without settling first in my new room. So while waiting, I wrote one of my articles (in this blog) in a Chinese restaurant across the hotel with very poor Chinese food (I know Chinese since it’s one of my faves and when I say it’s poor, it is…really). When I finally was able to check in, I had some minor problems with the room which are only worth mentioning in Tripadvisor (this blog has a positivity theme after all). You may be wondering why I didn’t use my Le Club Accor (see Travel In Style Part 2) in this leg of the trip. Well, the only Accor hotel in the area (Novotel Athenes) is apparently in a dodgy part of Athens where I’ve read some negative reviews and a bit far from the touristy sites.
Acropolis Hill (imagine climbing up on a dusty, windy, and humid day under the scorching summer heat)
So the early negative feedback that I’ve read about Athens is actually true. Athens is dirty. Litters and graffiti are all over the place. It actually reminds me of Naples. But just like Naples, old vibe, overwhelming character, and remnants of her glorious past overpower whatever cleanliness and safety issues she may currently have. This is more prevalent in Acropolis which is essentially the nerve center and melting pot of the city. Restaurants and shops abound at the foot of the hill and it would take a good hike up to reach the popular Parthenon. On the way up, I met a senior Filipino couple from the US. Athens is their dream destination and their dream finally came true. The wife’s name is Venus, so I told her that maybe it is really her destiny to be finally here. Athena and Venus though were not your definition of women sticking together or having each other’s back, but oh well, that was then and this is now. On the same trail, I overheard a young tourist saying “is there like an elevator or something?” You could probably hear chuckles at the back of my head, but I don’t blame her given the dusty, windy, and humid weather which actually surprised me this time of the year when southern Europe should be cool and airy. Sweaty and tired, the climb was all worth it upon reaching the apex and seeing the Parthenon and the other monuments. Just as I have envisioned it to be.
Parthenon (that’s my conscience walking away for not listening lol)
I decided to get a drink (my, was I super thirsty) in one of the restos lining up the foot of the hill after finally deciding that I had already enough of Acropolis Hills. After downing 2 bottles of Coke Zero in a glass full of ice, I started to walk towards the shops and to see what else is there in the area. A short, stocky guy stopped me on my tracks (this always happens to me, I don’t know why…some encounters pleasant, others creepy) and asked me where I’m from. As always, I’m proud to represent my country every time I travel, so I said “From the Philippines” with perfect enunciation. Every time I do that, I would get that look (like “I’ve never met someone like you from that country” or maybe “where’s that?”) and then compliments that I speak good English. With this guy though, he took it further (and this is not the first time that someone asked the same question) “Do you live there or are you based somewhere else?” So I said it with pride that I live and work in the Philippines (born and raised, true blue Filipino). So he introduced himself as the owner of one of the restos in the area and told me that he has a relative in the Philippines who owns a Greek resto (which I forgot the name). He also wants to invite me to his resto in the evening as there will be music and dancing and lots of young people expected to be there. If only he knows how old I am, but I was flattered by the invite and for being mistaken as part of that generation. I told him I already have made plans for the evening but I will try to see if I could drop by. I didn’t. I was just being polite.
The great philosopher Aristotle, one of Greece’s greatest gifts to mankind. He paved the way for explorers of the past and travelers of modern times when he first declared that the world is not flat (National Archaeological Museum)
A visit to Athens won’t be complete without checking out its museums. I am fond of museums (particularly those in Europe, that’s why I keep coming back) as it’s the only place that can take you back in time. The way of life then are depicted in most artifacts, potteries, and archaeological finds. I am thus excited to visit her museums, being an ancient city with very rich history. I was quite underwhelmed though when I have finally been to two of her museums. The collections in both Acropolis Museum and National Archaeological Museum were not as vast as those in NY Met, Prague Palace, or even Budapest Museum. But despite this initial disappointment (or maybe I was just expecting too much), what makes these museums different is its reference to Greek mythology. I have always been fascinated with Greek and Roman mythologies (you may be asking if there is any difference or similarity between the two, well, one good example is Venus and Aphrodite, where the former is Roman while the latter is Greek, both referring to the same Goddess of Love), of Greek and Roman gods and demigods, so any references to it make an interesting find. Apparently, there was this epic battle between Athena (Goddess of War and Wisdom) and Poseidon (God of the Sea) to win over the protection of the Athenian territory. Athena offered the Greeks the olive tree while Poseidon offered salt water. Guess who won? Of course, hands down Athena (yeah, go girl!). Greece won’t be Greece if not for the olive tree.
Epic battle of Athena (Goddess of War and Wisdom) and Poseidon (God of the Sea) which the Wonder Woman of ancient times won (Acropolis Museum)
Olive tree, like the coconut tree of the Philippines, is Greece’s tree of life. Mediterranean food and diet are mainly consist of the olive fruit, oil, and leaves. I read somewhere that this region has some of the lowest incidents of cardiovascular diseases and can be attributed to their olive staple and the benefits derived from it. So it is no surprise to see olive oil in every dining table and sometimes with complimentary olive fruits. Even before leaving for this trip, I already had a good appreciation of Mediterranean food (one of our go-to restos in Manila is Cyma, one of the few good Greek restos in the metro). I am also fond of grilled meats (I don’t eat vegetables), and it is no wonder that even if the Greeks love their meats, that fondness does not develop into long term debilitating diseases. I guess that’s what make Greeks look healthy in every way (luscious hair, clear skin, active even in advanced age, etc.). They utilize the tree of life (and probably the tree of youth) not only for food but for different health and beauty applications. So the beauty of Greece does not only lie on its past but also in its present thru its beautiful people. I guess Athenians were not wrong in building the Parthenon in honor of Athena. She gave them the gift of life.
Some of the meals I had in Athens. From left, baby veal steak, pasta with prawns, grilled “boughiourdi” shrimp (spicy hot tomato sauce with grated feta cheese), and baked lamb (in case you’re wondering, all are delish!)
This opulent accommodation I got to experience for 3 nights for the price of one (St. Regis Abu Dhabi)
“Cancellable.” That’s the key word when booking an accommodation. Like your lovelife, you need to be prepared to let go. You can lock-in your habibi and hope that everything goes as planned until such time that you will come to the realization that it was not or will ever meant to be. As mentioned in my previous post (Deconstructing A Myth: Travel Is Only For The Rich?), you have to book early so that you can lock-in the cheaper prices. But always make sure that it’s “cancellable” in case your plans don’t push thru.
So how do I get decent accommodation when I travel without spending too much? How do you choose among so many options? I try to simplify my life thru loyalty. As you probably have seen in my previous posts, I’m very loyal: 5 frequent flyer loyalty programmes (Travel In Style Part 1), loyal foodie (Mendokoro Ramenba: Arguably The Best Ramen In Manila), loyal to self (The Joys Of Travelling Solo), and now hotel loyalty program. Like your lovelife, you need to be loyal to avoid any drama. In the last 14 years, I have been a Le Club Accor member. I started by subscribing to this loyalty programme where you pay an amount which is about the same as a night stay in their 5 star hotel but comes with perks (aside from a free night stay in any of their hotels worldwide, you get 50% off on group dining at Spiral (Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila), access to periodic room sale, 15% discount on food and drinks, member for a day voucher, birthday cake, etc.). Last year, I forgot to renew my subscription and Accor thought that I was not renewing so they sent me a loyalty card (which has most of the perks as having a subscription) which I can keep for free if I continue to stay in their hotels for at least 10 nights per year. Not bad for a regular traveler like me.
So why Le Club Accor? This loyalty club is like a basket of hotel brands that cater to low, mid, and high end accommodations. There’s a brand for you if you are on a tight budget, and a brand if “money is no object” to you. Some of their low-end brands (less than $60 per night) are Ibis, Ibis Styles, and Adagio. Their mid-scale brands ($60 – $160) are Grand Mercure, Sebel, Novotel, and Mercure. High-end brands ($160 up) are Raffles, Fairmont, Sofitel, Rixos, M McGallery, and Pullman. Sometimes, the prices can overlap depending on the location and the season. Say you can stay in a high-end brand in Istanbul for the same price as a mid-scale brand in Athens. But what made me stick to this programme are the cancellable option, all-year round member’s special rate, periodic room sale, and points that you earn every time you stay in their hotels on top of the perks that were previously mentioned. The cancellable option gives you the flexibility to cancel at least a day before your stay (no booking platforms such as Agoda and Expedia can match that cancellation policy). The member’s special rate and the room sale will offer you with bargain prices and options. The points you earned and accumulated for every stay are convertible to cash vouchers that you can use to pay for your next stay. If I could remember it right, it’s one point to a dollar, so if you have spent $1,000 for a 10 night stay in one of their low or mid-scale hotels, that’s 1,000 points. For every 2000 points, you get I think $60 dollars voucher. So that’s about a free night stay in one of their low to mid-scale accommodations. They also have this accelerator point system (additional points you get which sometimes doubles up the actual points from your stay) which up to this time I still have no idea how it is computed, but there was a time when I have raked in more than 18,000 points which I have converted to 9 cash vouchers of 40 euro each (yeah, you have the option to redeem your points in dollar or euro). That’s 9 free night stay in their low-end accommodation (low-end here means 3-star hotel, so not that shabby I guess).
Screen grab of Le Club Accor points history
Though they have extensive presence across Europe, Asia and Oceania, Accor hotels are limited in US and Africa. That’s why there would be trips where I have to make use of Agoda or Expedia, but you also need to be smart when using these booking platforms. Credit card companies do not only have tie ups with airlines but also with hotels and their booking platforms. So it is not rare where credit card promos will include discounts on these platforms of up to 10%. So if I have a planned trip, I would check out which of my credit cards (I mentioned in my previous post that I have two, Citi and BDO Amex) have hotel and/or booking platform promos. Booking smart does not only mean being on a lookout for discounts, but also knowing how to book to get the least price. So say you are going to 2 or 3 destinations, where you are indifferent to the order of the trip. To be specific, say you are going to Auckland and Wellington for 2 weeks and you don’t really care whether you want to do Auckland first or Wellington. Booking smart means that for the same Auckland and Wellington hotels that you are interested in, you need to check the prices of Auckland for the first week and Wellington on the 2nd week and compare it if you do Wellington on the first and Auckland on the following week. You’ll be surprised that hotel prices can go up between weeks for whatever reason (I’ll say there may be a scheduled convention or event on that week where the prices are much higher). You can then arrange the order of your trip depending on which order will have you end up spending so much less. Yeah it’s a lot of work, just like your lovelife.
BDO/Amex credit card promos for airfare and hotel bookings
There are also ways to save up from just planning your trip alone (and I’m not referring to airfares and hotel prices). From the same example above, say you have decided to do Auckland on the first week and Wellington on the second week coz that would give you the least price. Say you have booked a roundtrip ticket from Manila to Auckland (Manila-Auckland-Manila) and booked a domestic flight between Auckland and Wellington (Auckland-Wellington-Auckland). When booking that domestic flight, you can check if there is a return flight to Auckland just a few hours before you can catch your return flight to Manila. This means you no longer have to stay in Auckland for a night just to catch your Manila flight. This will save you roundtrip airport transfers which is very expensive in some cities (between $30 to $50 per trip depending on the distance of the airport from the city, or about $60 to $100 roundtrip, or equivalent to a night hotel accommodation). Depending on your budget, you can also plan your activities without spending a lot. Like instead of booking a guided tour for your desired place of interest, why not read about that place first and then do your own tour? You can do the hop-on-hop-off bus to familiarize yourself with your new environment, but you can also learn how to use the subway (particularly the complex ones like those in Tokyo) to get to the different touristy sites that you have always wanted to see. There are also ways to save up on subway tickets (ie 24 hour pass, 7-day pass, reloadable card, etc.). The only thing that I would strongly advise not to scrimp on is on food. My Mom used to say that you can be stingy on most things but not on food. Trips are best enjoyed with good food and lots of walking to burn those calories.
Who knows, getting fit (both body and bank account) from your trips will get you your next lovelife.
(Left) Lunch by the beach. My Mom said don’t scrimp on food, so I’m having mini burgers, fries, soda plus Vitamin D from the sun 😉 (Right) Lounging by the beach. Don’t I look fit from all the walking? (Super Paradise Beach Club)
Not a few of you have been asking how I get to travel in style (business class seats, 3-5 star hotel accomodations, dining out, the whole shebang) particularly now that you’ve seen me in my newly opened Instagram account (columbusbee.gram). As I’ve mentioned in my previous post (Deconstructing A Myth: Travel Is Only For The Rich?), you don’t have to be wealthy to get to travel and you don’t have to be Crazy Rich Asian to travel in style. Truth be told, there are ways to travel in style without breaking the bank. So I’ll let you in to some of my ‘secrets’ so that you too can be stylish jetsetter.
In the last 9 years or so, there has been an advent of promo fares here in Manila and I’m not even referring to a local airline’s one peso fare. These are promotional fares from highly rated airlines, either thru travel expos, tie ups with major credit card companies or their very own flash sale. Looking for good buys is just like shopping for bargains and anticipating mall sale. My first venture into this airfare bargain hunting was going to travel expos. Every year, there is a travel expo around the 2nd weekend of February organized by travel agents association. Multiple airlines would offer marked down prices, especially for business class fares. I remember getting business class fares for $999 to Europe (exclusive of taxes), or something like less than $1100 net. That’s a pretty good deal given that it only costs as much as a regular economy ticket. Of course nowadays, you can’t find that kind of price points anymore. where the good buys would be between $1,600 to $1900 to Europe or US. Anything more than that would already be a rip off in my book (unless you’re flying Emirates or Qatar Airways where a little premium will go a long way).
The second path to a successful hunt is thru airlines tie up with major credit card companies. It is essential then to have a very good credit card for this purpose (you’ll need a credit card anyway when you travel). Personally, there are only two credit cards that in my experience offer the best airline tie ups: Citi and American Express (where the latter is issued by BDO locally). I’ve seen promos from BPI (usually tie ups with Singapore Airlines), Metrobank, Security Bank, etc. but nothing beats these two when it comes to the depth (prices) and breadth (participating airlines). Travel sale for these airlines gives the public the option to get it from their onsite travel sale (similar to travel expos but exclusively for their credit card holders), thru their airline offices, or online. For BDO cards, there are times that there would be pre-sale (usually a day before the actual sale) exclusively for their elite cardholders (ie Amex Platinum, BDO Titanium, etc.) where they can have first dibs on promotional fares. Sorry to say that not all credit cards are created equal. There is a caste system among credit cards but don’t fret, having the right credit card would already get you into this world of low airfares. For example, you don’t need to be an Amex Platinum or a BDO Titanium cardholder. All you need to do is just to have any Amex or BDO card. There’s this Blue Amex that I heard is being widely marketed nowadays (compared to the more exclusive Amex Platinum) and of course your regular BDO credit card. You just need to ensure that you are in their email list where they send announcements of their forthcoming fare sale.
This is how I got my latest promo fare. Oman Air has a promo last April for BDO cardholders (I’m an Amex cardholder). Though the flights to Europe on promo are limited to certain destinations only, Oman Air also launched its maiden flight to Athens starting June, so I decided to make Athens as my port of entry to Europe and booked the promo business class fare for $1,760 inclusive of taxes (so the airfare was about $1,600+). This is a good buy compared to regular business fare of about $2,600 (or about 33% discount) and regular economy fare of about $1,200 for the same airline.
Basking in the sun on infinity pool lounge with the Aegean Sea, beach, and mountains as backdrop (Mykonos Island)
The third path is thru airlines’ flash sale. Here, as long as you have a credit card, you can already purchase promo fares online. Airlines would normally have these flash sales on special occasions (such as airline anniversary, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, or any holiday or season that these airlines are celebrating). You just have to watch out for these special occasions during certain times of the year or to regularly check out the websites of your favorite airlines.
Once you have started flying, you can join the airlines frequent flyer programs. I’m currently a member of five (5) programs: Krisflyer (Singapore Airlines), Asia Miles, Miles & More (Lufthansa), Enrich (Malaysia Airlines), and Mabuhay Miles (Philippine Airlines). I’ve flown other airlines as well, but since they are part of airlines’ global alliances (for example, Thai Airways is in the same alliance with Singapore Airlines under Star Alliance) I don’t need to enroll in their own loyalty programs. The miles that I would be entitled to will just be credited to my existing loyalty program (so the miles that I will get from a Thai Airways ticket I will just have it credited to my Krisflyer account). What’s special with frequent flyer program is that aside from getting notified of the airline’s forthcoming promotional fares, they also offer miles sale (where you get free airfare at marked down miles compared to regular miles required to redeem a free flight). I find Krisflyer to be very good at this in terms of depth (miles discount) and breadth (you can have the option to redeem your miles thru another airline that is a member of the global alliance). For example, last December, when I went on vacation to Bangkok and Pattaya, I have an expiring 25,00 miles in my Krisflyer account. I tried checking for the required miles for a business class ticket and there was a business saver promo for 40,000 miles (compared to the regular 80,000 miles). So I transferred 20,000 miles from my Citi Premier Miles (that’s the credit card I would recommend among Citi cards if you like travelling) to meet the required Krisflyer miles for redemption. My business class redemption was confirmed for the Manila – Bangkok leg of the Singapore Airline flight (with layover in Singapore) but was waitlisted for the return flight. So I clicked the Star Alliance button on their website and found that Thai Airways business class was available for my return date. So I flew back (Bangkok – Manila) direct on Thai Airways flight business class for free (ok, not totally free coz only the airfare is free and you still have to pay a minimal amount for the taxes/surcharges). So I got to compare business class experience between these two airlines from these two short haul trips.
Travelling alone seems to be a distant and daunting concept to most people. I remember in my latest foreign trip last December to Bangkok and Pattaya where the Philippine immigration officer asked me what’s the purpose of my travel to Thailand and I said ‘For vacation.’ That puzzling look comes with the dreaded question “Alone?”. I said ‘Yes.’ I lost count of how many times I would have to answer that question, both here in my beloved country and at the passport control of some countries (though some countries have already recognized the growing niche market of people travelling solo, particularly among millennials). So what makes travelling solo appealing to people like me?
Wandering in the wild while on wildlife safari (Pilanesberg)
Not that I don’t like traveling with company. I had the pleasure of traveling with my folks a few years ago to Europe. Since I’ve been to Europe a few times before that trip, I was officially their travel guide, baggage collector, personal assistant, and jack of all trades. It gave me the opportunity to play a role of a good host, making sure that all their needs are taken care of. I’ve never seen my Dad cried before, so when I finally did see those tears of joy, it was priceless. My Mom now has bragging rights of having breakfast in Italy, lunch in Spain, and dinner in France all in the same day! How’d that happen? Well, after spending a week in Italy, the next leg of the trip was Lourdes (France). But there was no direct flight from Rome to Lourdes, where we have to take a flight via Barcelona with about 5 hours layover. Since it was an early flight, we had breakfast in Rome. When we arrived in Barcelona before 10AM, knowing that we have about 5 hours to kill, I decided to bring them to the city (I was in Barcelona the year before so I pretty much know my way around). So I rented a locker in the airport, put all our hand-carry bags in, and took a cab to the city. I brought them to Sagrada Familia, the iconic, majestic Gaudi creation that is still unfinished up to this day. Then we had lunch before we took our connecting flight to Lourdes. We arrived in Lourdes late in the afternoon and had an early dinner.
Stumbling into the bizarre (Kuthna Hora)
I also had traveled with my sis and bro-in-law, both in Europe and US, a few years ago. For the Europe trip, we went together to London, then went our separate ways , them to places I’ve been to, while I to places I haven’t been to. We rendezvoused in Paris (among my top 5 cities), after which we went back to London for our return flight to Manila. With them it’s different, coz I’m in a company of people my age (ok, I’m a few years older, but believe me, I would usually be mistaken as the younger sibling). The activities and the dining are also different, since there are 3 people making decisions.
I have traveled with friends also and that too is different experience. You know, you play roles and act differently when you’re with your friends, family, and peers at work. You are behaved with parents, can be timid with siblings, goofy with friends, and proper with peers or staff at work.
Standing in the oldest standing structure in the world (Gozo)
So what makes traveling solo appealing? Traveling alone gives you that freedom to be just yourself. You don’t have to be behaved, timid, goofy, and proper. You are free as a bird. That freedom leads you to a path of self discovery.
As I mentioned in my earlier post (entitled Hey, it’s me), ‘I travel to overwhelm my senses, to discover and to explore, to savor and experience so that at the end of the day, I’ll come out a different, better person with a story to tell.’ What better way to achieve that than by traveling alone. This is why I now have stories to tell. I’m now a different person than I was before my last trip, than I was on that trip prior to the last one, and so on and so forth. The path to self discovery is best traveled only with and by yourself.
Channeling Leonardo di Caprio on The Beach (Phi Phi Island)
Traveling solo also gives you the flexibility and latitude to make the trip exclusively your own. You don’t have to wait for someone if you want to start your day already. You don’t have to worry if you want to make changes in your itinerary. You don’t have to be constrained by the needs of your company. Your time is your own. You don’t have to deal with the drama coz your drama is your own.
Charming the snakes with the snake charmers (Marrakesh)
The next best thing after self discovery is that you meet people and see the goodness in them. A couple of years back, I tripped and fell on the rugged cobblestone covered streets of Porto. Since it was my hand and cellphone that broke the fall, my hand was dripping with blood and I was a bit disoriented while lying still on the ground. Tourists and locals alike ran towards me to assist and helped me get up. Some offered me bottled water, thinking I was dehydrated and lost consciousness under the summer heat. In a second, you feel you’re not alone. Though your world turned upside down after the fall, you are surrounded by thoughtful, caring, and generous strangers, thinking how lucky you are to experience the innate goodness and pureness of heart.
Wild river adventure (Queenstown)
Then there are the new friends you meet along the way. I have met young and old, abled and disabled, singles, couples, and families. The thing with solo travelers is that we tend to be magnets to families particularly if you have a certain charm (wink wink). How many times have I been invited to join families having a meal, or in their family activities. Like an adopted son or nephew. It’s actually very heartwarming.
Dennis and Maria of Germany. Lovely couple I met while having tapas in a resto (Barcelona)
You also tend to be adventurous when you are on your own. You try things you haven’t tried before, go to places you haven’t seen before. From mounting Mt. Vesuvius to cruising Milford Sounds. From discovering the bizarre in Kuthna Hora to navigating the exotic medinas of Marrakesh and Essaouira. To be awed by Kotor and dreamy in Amalfi. From channeling Leonardo di Caprio on The Beach of Phi Phi Island to water rafting the rivers of Queenstown for the Lord of the Rings sceneries. To be captivated by the Game of Thrones vibe of Dubrovnik and held captive for a moment in Alcatraz. From exploring the old in Gozo to what’s new in Shinjuku. You will realize that there is so much more you can do on your own.
History on The Rock (Alcatraz)
So have I convinced you to go solo? I know that travel is not for everyone, much more traveling alone, but you should at least try it once in your lifetime. You will discover the world around you and uncover the world within you.
So I’m set for my Europe trip with a few more days before my departure date. Schengen visa (check), euro money (check), plane tickets (check), and hotel bookings (check) are all in place. Then I realized that since I’m planning to go to Turkey, I will need a visa as well. As you know, Turkey is not a Schengen member state and I believe this beautiful country rich in culture and history has been lobbying for a while to become part of Schengen. But as to whether there are politics involved or not (your guess is as good as mine), I’ve been following this dictum that there are two topics that should not be subjects of conversation to avoid conflict: politics and religion.
So I googled “Turkey Visa” and found that the easiest way to get one is to apply online for the Turkey e-Visa. How glad I was to go thru the application process since it was the easiest and fastest visa application I had so far. I was done in probably less than 10 minutes with an instant e-Visa on hand. So here’s how it went.
Input your country, choose your type of passport, and your expected date of arrival in Turkey. For Philippine passport holders, you will get a validity period of 180 days (counting from the expected date of arrival in Turkey that you have indicated in your application) with a 30-day stay period. Not bad if you want to visit the country again within 6 months or go explore the whole country in 30 days. I chose the date of my arrival in Athens as my expected arrival date so that in case of any hiccups, I have the option to go directly to Turkey from Athens (since you can’t go there earlier than your visa effectivity).
The next page will ask you to tick the following boxes:
My passport covers the period that I will be staying in Turkey.
I can prove that I hold a return ticket, hotel reservation and at least 50 $ per each day of my stay.
I am travelling for the purposes of tourism or business.
I have a valid Supporting Document (Valid visa OR valid residence permit from one of the Schengen Countries, USA, UK or Ireland). E-visas are not accepted as supporting documents.
4. Then it will bring you to the next page where you will fill in your personal details, including your e-mail address where they will send you an e-mail verification that you need to confirm within an hour.
5. Once you click ‘Approve’ in the verification e-mail, it will direct you to the payment page where you are going to enter your credit card details. Cost of the e-Visa is 20.55 US dollars. There are several mode of payments other than credit cards, so you have a lot of options.
6. After the payment is processed, the next page will now have the link/button to download your e-Visa. A separate e-mail will also be sent with the same link/button.
See, no brainer. Writing this article even took more time than the actual visa application. With my e-Visa, I’m now really set. Europe, here I come.
No matter how many times you have applied and secured a Schengen visa in the past, you cannot always be overconfident that you already know or have everything. That’s exactly what happened when I went to the Greece Consulate in Makati City last Friday. On the way there, I told myself “I got this.” Coz what could possibly go wrong when this would already be my 7th Schengen visa application and went thru similar process at the embassies of Belgium, Germany, Italy, Norway, Italy (again), and Spain, not to mention visa applications in other non-Schengen and non-European embassies and consulates? Even if I felt like pretty much jaded as a visa applicant that sometimes you can’t help but scorn being born in a 3rd world country, you just have to do it for the love of travel.
So early April, I was able to book a return flight to Greece, thus have to get my Schengen visa from their embassy given that it will be my port of entry in the Schengen area (as well as the Schengen member state where I will stay the longest). As soon as I got my ticket, I checked their website to know how to apply and lodge a visa application. Unlike other embassies where visa appointments are booked online, Greece Consulate requires that you email them at visa.man@mfa.gr with the following details:
PREFERRED DATE: {DD MONTH YEAR} Name of Applicant: {LAST NAME, FIRST NAME} Passport No: Contact Tel.: Type of Visa: {SCHENGEN/SHORT TERM or NATIONAL/LONG TERM} Main Country of Destination: Expected Date of Departure: {DD MONTH YEAR}
After sending the e-mail with the above details, I got an e-reply stating that they are acknowledging receipt of the appointment request and not to send the same e-mail twice as they are declogging their inbox. More than a month later, I got no update from the consulate so I decided to e-mail them again, apologizing for sending the same e-mail twice but also highlighting that no updates were received after a month’s wait. There were just a few more weeks left before my scheduled departure date so I let out a sigh of relief when I finally got an actual reply (not the electronic one) the next day with the date and time of the appointment.
I started collecting and gathering the visa requirements. I prepared a cover letter that will serve as a checklist, reiterating the same documentary proofs that are in the list of requirements found in the website. These documentary evidences are:
Proof of financial means – I requested for a bank certificate from my bank not only containing the current balance but also the average daily balance (ADB) for the last 6 months. This detail is important coz when I was in the consulate, a senior couple were asked by the local staff for bank statements (take note that this is not the same as bank certificate) since the ADB is not stated in their bank certificate. I also enclosed my credit card statement.
Proof of travel – since I already have my paid tickets, I brought a copy of the same as well as my travel itinerary. The latter is important as it will serve two purpose. One, it will show your inclusive dates of travel as basis of the visa validity period as well as number of entries (single, double, or multiply entry visa). Second, it will manifest that you are a legit traveler, that you know exactly what you intend to do while you are in their country or in any Schengen member state.
Proof of will to return – since I have used (and outstanding) visas, I submitted photocopies of the same. Though not in the list of requirements, I thought what could be a better way to prove that you’re returning to your home country by showing the number of times you’ve been in and out of countries you have visited. I don’t need to bring titles of properties and marriage certificate (uhm, I’m single?) just to prove that I’m deeply rooted in this country.
Proof of occupation – I got a certificate of employment from my employer stating my position/rank, salary, and years with the company.
Proof of accommodation – this is where my Le Club Accor membership comes handy (I’ll have a separate article for this so watch out for it).
Proof of insurance – since I already have a dollar medical insurance policy (Pacific Cross which is among the accredited insurance companies) that covers travels that are less than 90 days in duration, I didn’t have to pay for the usual travel insurance. So I just enclosed a copy of my insurance policy. This proof that you are insured while travelling is important as the consulate will outright reject your application if you don’t have this documentary evidence.
So you thought I got everything covered, right? Absolutely not. After the local consulate staff has perused my documents, the staff requested me to photocopy the identification page of my old passports where the used visas are attached. Good thing I have my old passports with me (which they would require anyway, even if it’s not on the list of requirements), so after the staff gave me the BDO deposit slip to fill up and use to pay for the visa fee of 3,480 pesos (the equivalent of 60 euro fee), I went down to get to the BDO branch just across the street as well as the print shop (for the photocopy) that’s just a few steps away. It was a few minutes past noon that when I tried to enter the print shop, the attendants are signaling that they will open at 1PM! So that’s roughly an hour wait, or alternatively a few minutes walk to Greenbelt under the scorching summer heat to look for photocopying services (National Bookstore?). Resigned to the fact that I may have to brave the heat, I decided first to go to BDO to pay the visa fee. It was almost an empty branch where I got to the teller without queuing. Then there it was, at the corner of my eye, a photocopier. Hallelujah (angels singing)! I asked the teller if she can photocopy my passport and she was kind enough to oblige. In this case, BDO truly “find ways.”
Then I went up to the consulate again to submit the validated deposit slip and the photocopies. I waited for my name to be called again for biometrics. Then another wait for my name to be called where they will issue a receipt indicating when I can claim my passport with visa (if my application proves successful). The whole process only took me a little over an hour. Not bad.
So applying at the Greece consulate wasn’t as daunting as I thought it would be given the reviews I’ve read while preparing for the appointment. With common sense and a little bit of luck (bringing your charm on will also do wonders), applying for a visa is nothing more than just another task completed.
P.S. I got my visa 10 calendar days after my appointment date. It’s my 3rd time to get a 90-day stay multiple entry visa valid for one year. Not sure whether there’s a trick that I’m missing, but I’m pretty sure this is uncommon as more than half the time my Schengen visas were only valid for the travel period that I have indicated in my application. I must be doing something good.
Every time I bumped into a Filipino abroad (which is often as Filipinos are everywhere), the first question that would normally be asked is “Kabayan, taga rito ka ba o bakasyonista?” (Hey mate, are you based here or just vacationing?) to which I would say the latter. What would follow after that big smile normally will give me the cringe: “Siguro mayaman ka sa atin, noh?” (You’re probably rich back home, huh?) to which I would respond “No, I just have enough.” Which is actually true, coz my perception of rich (or wealthy) is Crazy Rich Asian, and I was not born with a silver spoon. But that common notion where travel is only for the wealthy is just something that I need to break down and prove that even with a 9-5 job, one can still get to travel. So before anyone thinks that I belong to Philippine royalty or its equivalent (re rich kid of a political clan), I will let you in to some of my ‘secrets’ on how I actually do it (re travel the world without breaking the bank).
Save and Go
Yes, I save money to travel. When I do my budget, it will always be allocated to these 3 items: monthly expenses, travel fund, savings. Monthly expenses are essentially the ‘needs’ (food, utilities, transport, etc.) while travel fund is the ‘want’. Savings, on the other hand, is a ‘must’. That’s for the rainy days ahead which may also be tapped for future investment (ie house), emergency, and retirement. So say you’re a single yuppie earning 30,000 pesos a month and still lives with your parents. You allocate 10 grand for each of the three items and at the end of the year, you will have 120 grand for your travel fund. Throw in your 13th month pay of say 30 grand (give or take), so in a year, you now have 150 thousand pesos. In dollar terms, that’s about $2,850 at current exchange rate.
Planning is Key
Now you have a travel fund. Where can that get you? How do you stretch that fund to cover your airfare, hotel, and incidental expenses? Travelling on a budget requires planning ahead. Airfares and hotels are usually cheaper if you book those long before your actual travel date. That means at least 4 months earlier. But you need to know where you want to go, how long you like to stay abroad, what minimum level of comfort you require, what food you will be happy to live with, and what activities are you willing to spend on. The timing of the trip is also crucial, as seasons dictate prices.
Europe Here I Come
So say it is always your dream to see Europe (of course after starting small with typical Filipino fare Hongkong, Singapore, and Bangkok, and Korea or Japan after your last promotion). Is $2,850 enough? Depends, but I can draw a budget that will make it enough to get you by. Let’s start with airfare. Early in the year, you will see a lot of airlines having promotions usually in partnership with credit card companies (hence it is essential to have a good credit card, which you will need anyway when you travel). I will write soon separate articles on this (so watch out for it). I could easily get you a coach fare to a European destination for less than $600 roundtrip. To ensure that you can stretch your budget further, avoid going to Europe on summers (July – September). Go there springtime (May – June) or autumn (October – November) where you will enjoy the same long daytime (sun sets at 9PM and even at 2AM in the Nordics!) but cooler air. During these off peak periods, you can actually book a 2-3 star hotel for less than a hundred bucks. So for 10 nights, that will set you back for about a grand.
For your first Europe trip, you would probably want to see more than just one city or country. My advise is to look for adjacent countries where you can easily access thru Euro train. If you like to see Paris, then you can bundle that with Amsterdam and Brussels (Netherlands – Belgium – France). On the map, these 3 countries are just adjacent to each other and Euro rail have stops in several cities, including those three. This will save you some intra Europe airfares (though airfares are sometimes cheaper than train tickets, depending how early you can book your airfare). Your train fare would probably cost you about $200. At this point, your expense budget is now $1,800. That leaves you with more than a grand for meals and incidental expenses. For a 50-dollar daily meal allowance, you can actually have a decent meal in a restaurant ($10 for breakfast, $20 for lunch and also for dinner). You won’t subsist on fastfood (though you will sometimes crave for it even if you have enough money for a resto). For this first Europe trip, avoid UK or Scandinavia coz your 50 dollars would only be enough for a single meal. Don’t even think about the peso equivalent as it will only drive you mad and will suck the joy out of the otherwise very satisfying dining experience.
You’re now left with a little over 500 bucks. I suggest you spend some on hop-on-hop-off bus to get yourself acclimatized to your new environment. A 48-hour ticket would be about 40 dollars so in 3 cities, that’s about $120. Since you’re in Europe, museums are best to get some culture and entrance fee would be about 20 dollars (some though are free), or $60 for 3 cities. Airport transfers would be less than 50 dollars, or $100 for a return trip. So you still have more than $200 left, which you can spend on subways/buses (once your 48-hour tickets expire), travel SIM cards, grocery for your midnight snacks, a couple of drinks in a bar, souvenirs, and chocolates at duty free to bring home to Mom.
So there you have it. A dream come true without living off your parents’ money (or lack of). Coz your social status does not define your travel opportunities. It’s your passion to travel that will drive it coupled with hard work, savings, and smart spending.