Greece: Of Myths, Mediterranean Food, and Beaches – Part 1 of 2

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So I finally decided to go to Greece after years of having it in my bucket list. Greece has always been an exciting destination for me but having read some negative feedback particularly on Athens, that eagerness to see this glorious country has taken a back seat for a while until last April when Oman Air’s maiden flight to Athens for June was on promo. I thought that was the sign to pack up my bags and go on a Greek adventure.

Athens

Unlike most of my trips, this one went not without any hiccups and misfortunes. When I arrived in Athens International Airport in the evening, I was met by my driver Venediktod from Welcome Pickups which was a good decision on my part to book a hassle-free airport transfer. The price did not differ much if I have taken a cab from the airport so I decided to try this transport company and I’m just glad I did. I was ushered in a Benz and the whole trip to the city was very pleasant (spacious leather seats with welcome bottled water) until I got to my hotel (Vitruvius Smart Hotel & Spa). Tired and weary from a 15-hour flight (not to mention more than 2 hours layover in Muscat and 3 hours at Manila airport), I was told that they have overbooked for that night and cannot give me any room. Something like this I would dread every time I travel (though this is the first time that it happened to me), I told them assertively that it’s their problem (not mine) and they have to fix it. So long story short, they looked for available hotels in the area and when they found one, they booked me a cab and told me that everything has been arranged for and I don’t need to pay for the night in that hotel and can return the next day for the rest of my booking.

Essentially I lost almost a day since I could only check in the next day around 2PM and I don’t want to go around the city without settling first in my new room. So while waiting, I wrote one of my articles (in this blog) in a Chinese restaurant across the hotel with very poor Chinese food (I know Chinese since it’s one of my faves and when I say it’s poor, it is…really). When I finally was able to check in, I had some minor problems with the room which are only worth mentioning in Tripadvisor (this blog has a positivity theme after all). You may be wondering why I didn’t use my Le Club Accor (see Travel In Style Part 2) in this leg of the trip. Well, the only Accor hotel in the area (Novotel Athenes) is apparently in a dodgy part of Athens where I’ve read some negative reviews and a bit far from the touristy sites.

So the early negative feedback that I’ve read about Athens is actually true. Athens is dirty. Litters and graffiti are all over the place. It actually reminds me of Naples. But just like Naples, old vibe, overwhelming character, and remnants of her glorious past overpower whatever cleanliness and safety issues she may currently have. This is more prevalent in Acropolis which is essentially the nerve center and melting pot of the city. Restaurants and shops abound at the foot of the hill and it would take a good hike up to reach the popular Parthenon. On the way up, I met a senior Filipino couple from the US. Athens is their dream destination and their dream finally came true. The wife’s name is Venus, so I told her that maybe it is really her destiny to be finally here. Athena and Venus though were not your definition of women sticking together or having each other’s back, but oh well, that was then and this is now. On the same trail, I overheard a young tourist saying “is there like an elevator or something?” You could probably hear chuckles at the back of my head, but I don’t blame her given the dusty, windy, and humid weather which actually surprised me this time of the year when southern Europe should be cool and airy. Sweaty and tired, the climb was all worth it upon reaching the apex and seeing the Parthenon and the other monuments. Just as I have envisioned it to be.

I decided to get a drink (my, was I super thirsty) in one of the restos lining up the foot of the hill after finally deciding that I had already enough of Acropolis Hills. After downing 2 bottles of Coke Zero in a glass full of ice, I started to walk towards the shops and to see what else is there in the area. A short, stocky guy stopped me on my tracks (this always happens to me, I don’t know why…some encounters pleasant, others creepy) and asked me where I’m from. As always, I’m proud to represent my country every time I travel, so I said “From the Philippines” with perfect enunciation. Every time I do that, I would get that look (like “I’ve never met someone like you from that country” or maybe “where’s that?”) and then compliments that I speak good English. With this guy though, he took it further (and this is not the first time that someone asked the same question) “Do you live there or are you based somewhere else?” So I said it with pride that I live and work in the Philippines (born and raised, true blue Filipino). So he introduced himself as the owner of one of the restos in the area and told me that he has a relative in the Philippines who owns a Greek resto (which I forgot the name). He also wants to invite me to his resto in the evening as there will be music and dancing and lots of young people expected to be there. If only he knows how old I am, but I was flattered by the invite and for being mistaken as part of that generation. I told him I already have made plans for the evening but I will try to see if I could drop by. I didn’t. I was just being polite.

A visit to Athens won’t be complete without checking out its museums. I am fond of museums (particularly those in Europe, that’s why I keep coming back) as it’s the only place that can take you back in time. The way of life then are depicted in most artifacts, potteries, and archaeological finds. I am thus excited to visit her museums, being an ancient city with very rich history. I was quite underwhelmed though when I have finally been to two of her museums. The collections in both Acropolis Museum and National Archaeological Museum were not as vast as those in NY Met, Prague Palace, or even Budapest Museum. But despite this initial disappointment (or maybe I was just expecting too much), what makes these museums different is its reference to Greek mythology. I have always been fascinated with Greek and Roman mythologies (you may be asking if there is any difference or similarity between the two, well, one good example is Venus and Aphrodite, where the former is Roman while the latter is Greek, both referring to the same Goddess of Love), of Greek and Roman gods and demigods, so any references to it make an interesting find. Apparently, there was this epic battle between Athena (Goddess of War and Wisdom) and Poseidon (God of the Sea) to win over the protection of the Athenian territory. Athena offered the Greeks the olive tree while Poseidon offered salt water. Guess who won? Of course, hands down Athena (yeah, go girl!). Greece won’t be Greece if not for the olive tree.

Olive tree, like the coconut tree of the Philippines, is Greece’s tree of life. Mediterranean food and diet are mainly consist of the olive fruit, oil, and leaves. I read somewhere that this region has some of the lowest incidents of cardiovascular diseases and can be attributed to their olive staple and the benefits derived from it. So it is no surprise to see olive oil in every dining table and sometimes with complimentary olive fruits. Even before leaving for this trip, I already had a good appreciation of Mediterranean food (one of our go-to restos in Manila is Cyma, one of the few good Greek restos in the metro). I am also fond of grilled meats (I don’t eat vegetables), and it is no wonder that even if the Greeks love their meats, that fondness does not develop into long term debilitating diseases. I guess that’s what make Greeks look healthy in every way (luscious hair, clear skin, active even in advanced age, etc.). They utilize the tree of life (and probably the tree of youth) not only for food but for different health and beauty applications. So the beauty of Greece does not only lie on its past but also in its present thru its beautiful people. I guess Athenians were not wrong in building the Parthenon in honor of Athena. She gave them the gift of life.

Some of the meals I had in Athens. From left, baby veal steak, pasta with prawns, grilled “boughiourdi” shrimp (spicy hot tomato sauce with grated feta cheese), and baked lamb (in case you’re wondering, all are delish!)

(Up Next: Mykonos and Santorini)